Mr. Foxen

[quote name='Amazoman' timestamp='1325284286' post='1481870'] When those tubes were replaced and biased John found a small black line of (I can't remember what he called it!!) material that was linking two of the power tube bases together on the board and causing one tube to discharge all of its volts into another. [/quote] That would be soot/carbon. A spark goes across, leaves a bit of soot where it burns stuff, slightly more conductive path, so sparks easier, until a solid strip of soot builds up and shorts it.

Frets are a place where a cheap neck that feels nice suffers, cheap soft metal badly dressed if at all. They wear quickly, and intonation starts to go.

If you are looking at a dealer's one in America, you are looking at massively overpriced compared to going direct to factory.

Jolana: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Jolana-D-bass-1986-neck-through-electric-bass-/280798425054?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item4160e3efde

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1325193924' post='1480889'] The first part is true, but the second part isn't if you use a big enough resistor. [/quote] And a heat sink. If you look at 25w resistors, they are made in such a way you screw them to a heatsink. [quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1325194185' post='1480895'] So I can try this without blowing anything up, but I may not like the resulting tone? [/quote] Stuff can always blow up in a vintage amp not serviced. But they can cope with a short, which is why usually the output jacks are shorting ones, so you are semi safe if nothing is plugged in. A mismatch a step either way isn't generally harmful unless you get silly with it. Quoting relevant nerd, was trying to find BFMs because he is less wordy, but the wordyness makes it easier to search: [quote name='alexclaber' timestamp='1306166247' post='1241870'] The AD200 is a valve amp so the rules are totally different to the solidstate amp ones. It looks like it has both an 8 ohm tap and a 4 ohm tap on the output transformer and you can use either one but not both. You could safely run three 8 ohm cabs on the 4 ohm tap, that won't bother it at all as valve amps are sensitive to overly HIGH not low impedances. Likewise I wouldn't envisage a problem running all those cabs you describe off the 4 ohm tap. [/quote] [quote name='alexclaber' timestamp='1306237656' post='1242844'] It's a valve amp with an output transformer, not a solid-state amp! All the posts talking about increased current flow at low impedances are wrong - valves and output transformers do not behave like that. This is quite informative: [url="http://www.metaltronix.net/metaltronix-amp-basics.htm"]http://www.metaltron...-amp-basics.htm[/url] 4 ohm cab on an 8 ohm tap and you'll get about half the 8 ohm power. 16 ohm cab on an 8 ohm tap and you'll get about half the rated power. Go lower than 4 ohms and the power decreases further but the amp doesn't care. Go higher than 16 ohms and the power decreases further AND you risk killing your amp. (The reasons are complicated but explained in that link). I'll say it again - valve amps do not behave like transistor amps! [/quote]

Still got more boxes. Amp suitable ones too.

For a start you lose half the power of the amp into the resistor. Then that power turns to heat and the resistor explodes.

It will probably work into 8 ohms, but it won't be ideal, the most destructive mismatch is much further mismatched, and mismatched the other way, high impedance cab, or no cab at all. Too low impedance is just tone trouble, and you may like the tone just fine. Easiest mode is put a socket on the amp and a lead on the speaker, or another socket, so you can choose internal speaker of external with your plugging. Just make sure you don't choose neither.

[quote name='solo4652' timestamp='1325178877' post='1480661'] Solder!? Errr - what's that, please? [/quote] It is what people used to do instead of buying new gear.

[quote name='billyapple' timestamp='1325179200' post='1480671'] The two Oils I can find are Danish and Tung Oil, do you know much about the Tung? Plus, ever come across Tru-Oil? [/quote] Tung oil is oil from Tung nuts, you have to thin it with white spirit and build it up from 10% solution to pure oil over months for the ultimate finish. Rustins Danish oil is Tung oil and dryers and thinners to make it easier to wipe on and go smooth in a premixed style. Other brands of danish oil can work in different ways, some are varnish in an oily base to wipe on, and these ones are kind of bad. Tru-oil is linseed oil based, and is for gunstocks, it should give a good finish but I've no experience with it. Tru-oil is pretty recommended. I like the warm glow thing that danish oil does, think tru oil is a tougher finish since its for gunstocks, out in the weather and such, looks more like satin varnish when its done. This is the stuff I use: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rustins-Danish-Oil-Interior-Exterior-Use-250ml-/310353767408?pt=UK_BOI_Building_Materials_Supplies_Carpentry_Woodwork_ET&hash=item484286abf0 Can prob get cheaper if you look about.

Try just swapping about the pre valves, if one is a bit noisy, then moving it to a position with less gain after it will lessen the hum. Should be able to figure if one is duff, and which one that way, an know if you have to replace. Since you had trouble with it before, might have partly cooked a capacitor that is being troublesome though.

Can you solder? Redoing all the places where pots an jacks meet the PCB might fix it, it its scrap anyway, be good learning.

The green stuff on a roll is aggressive and lasts, for shaping and getting rid of router marks. Cabinet scrapers are what was used pre sandpaper for really flat fine finishes on cabinets: http://woodgears.ca/scraper/index.html used perpendicular rather than cutting, they scrap a layer off. I used Rustins danish oil. Can only recommend Rustins, other danish oils haven't been as good for me. The 250ml small bottle is plenty for a bass, and some white spirit to thing the early coats. Long process, mine still smells of stale nuts as the oil polymerises after the solvents evaporate.

Bought my first set of flats in a guitar shop, it was very much a set that had been laying about forever.

I found sanding with the grain somewhat challenging with mine. Have you considered cabinet scrapers? Ideal for purpose and style.

Problem with music shops is they keep employing musicians. They need to employ techies who are less inclined to only be concerned with their own favourite stuff. Musicians have lower wage expectations though.

Depends what is causing the problem. Set the bass up properly, the hole in the neck is for the truss rod and it isn't to raise an lower action, its to adjsut the relief in the neck, it should be very close to flat but very slightly curved, like imperceptible unless you reference against a straight edge. The bridge saddles are the action adjustment and more of a taste call. But aside from that, not unlikely the noise comes from technique.

What output does it have to run a power amp from?

It is an otherwise unfilled niche. Pair one up with the valve slave amp in for sale, and you have home/studio to gig size sorted.

The pressings and metal parts I can have made in a small run. Someone would need to put the money in though.

Mod your rigs to XLR input only and have appropriate cable. "Can I use you amp?" "Sure, its good to go, just plug in when you want to play." [Goes up to it holding a jack plug.]

I saw this when it went up, bid on it so he couldn't edit.