Mr. Foxen

One sold on ebay not that long ago, somewhere between two and three grand, lot of my network were haggling what they were going to bid to try not to compete with each other. Also, it is important not to believe anything you read on planetoftheamps.com, in this case especially about Black Sabbath, they speciifically didn't like oranges (too clean) and are in the vid as backline on TV shows (Orange's marketing thing).

[quote name='guildbass' timestamp='1324338355' post='1473296'] What kills cabs...or rather drivers, is Dc voltage, and the more an amp clips, the flatter the signal peaks get. Clip it enough and those flat plateaus add up to a solid elevated DC voltage...And that will brew up the driver coils. A 10 Watt HiFi amp can happily kill a 500 watt speaker if it's clipped hard into it for long enough. if you want a 'crunch' in your tone, generate it at the front end with a valve pre-amp or something then use a big healthy power amp to simply amplify accurately whatever you've put in...Your rig will love you for it... [/quote] Dude, no. All of that is wrong. http://barefacedbass.com/technical-information/mythbusters1.htm http://billfitzmaurice.info/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1886 Power stage drive is awesome.

Will need the depth of the port, there's probably a shelf inside.

And you'll need to state a price.

[quote name='StraightSix' timestamp='1324253907' post='1472359'] Thanks for the replies. lollington - that had crossed my mind but as stated by chris b, it won't push more air. Mr Foxen - that is exactly as I had thought which is why I was considering a 16ohm 2X10. Would you consider adding one would be beneficial (obviously, I will gain something just by getting more headroom from the amp) but is this going to give a decent improvement...? Incidentally, the amp head is rated at 250W into 4ohms. Cheers [/quote] Between more speakers and bit lower impedance you'll get a bit more. But the nicest thing is the modular 2x10, 4x10 or 6x10 setup you'll have.

If you get a 8 ohm 4x10 and a 16 ohm 2x10 with same speakers and equivalent size (as in half), then you get equal power to each speaker, which is kind of important.

Can you pose measurements of the cab in a way that the amount of air in it can be calculated, and the size of the ports in the cab?

Basically yes, the amps own colour will apply. Amp modelling is for going into computers or PA if you actually want soundy likey. But the combination of model and amp colour has its own validity, I love the sound of the VT bass into a driven valve amp.

[quote name='VTypeV4' timestamp='1323965788' post='1469317'] Not suggested then, boys? The hifi crowd seem to love 'em.. [/quote]Th They also love $2000 power cables. But there's nothing that captures the feeling of being there in the room with the band recording with you like the smell of transformers melting, due to stinkyness and swearing, that is the hallmark of sharing a confined space with a band who are recording.

Chromed sales on the bridge say that's not a Rick one. Tuners are def wrong, an think holes from right ones would show up as those have a small footprint.

Check the heater current: http://www.jogis-roehrenbude.de/Roehren-Geschichtliches/Roe-Neuvorstellungen/BTB/KT120/KT120TungSol.pdf http://drtube.com/datasheets/kt88-sed1999.pdf Melty good times for your power transformer.

I've heard that some amps can go into oscillation when unloaded which would have the effect of blasting signal. Mine was prone to oscillation because of a duff resistor.

Also if plugged into fx loop output, doesn't that cut signal to power amp section? Dunno if signal is necessary.

[quote name='Mykesbass' timestamp='1323694351' post='1465841'] I bet the problems the amount of X Boxes, PlayStations and Class D amplifiers that have been dumped as they cannot be repaired far outweighs the damage the lead ever did. Rant over! [/quote] Mostly if you don't bin them the lead doesn't get to the environment. But also, check how sane all the 'senior' amp techs are.

Doesn't apply to all amps though, because the 'standby' switch doesn't always do the same thing. Pretty sure it does on the Sound City though.

Probably, the actual mechanism of an unloaded amp self destructing is a bit hard to pinpoint. The idea of shorting jacks is that a dead short is better than totally open.

I think it has shorting jacks so if nothing was plugged into them (as opposed to a lead plugged in with nothing on the other end) they'd have a low impedance load, which is supposed to be happy. Is Bruce competing with me on valve sales then?

Pretty much all the amps I've repaired have been worth repairing. I'm not very good at repairing though, so there are some I've not yet figured how to do.

Guess stereo from the symmetry and proportions that suggests not for MI use, and from sig, Leak Stereo 20?

I'd say not go combo and get a head and cab, much easier to upgrade modular, and at gear sharing gigs, only need to cart a head about, and you learn a lot about cabs that way, and how to use EQ to suit them.

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1323629356' post='1465232'] Must get shot of my SC120, is very tidy and unmolested, just hisses [/quote] Molest some decent metal film resistors in and bunch of the hiss will go.

Vampower: [IMG]http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/Incarante/vampower/vampower003.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/Incarante/vampower/vampower005.jpg[/IMG]

Not comparable to the Fearful again.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1323608110' post='1464910'] The 12/126 is equivalent to the Barefaced Big Twin, so £960 with tweeter and neo surcharge. [/quote] And shipping, which I guess is included in parts cost for the Fearful. Edit: and neo surcharge is £40 per woofer not £30 per woofer like I thought.