Mr. Foxen

Racks are massive compared to the pedal though. Use a fur covered rack sleeve, and you can velcro it anywhere.

Velcro it to the front of the power amp. I've seen it done. Tempted to do the same.

[IMG]http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/Incarante/assembled002.jpg[/IMG] Impatient, strung up, waiting for black hardware to arrive. Also for a time when people aren't sleeping so I can make noise with it.

Might need a fair bit of top coming out for your bass, new strings style.

He's been gone from BC in ages, kinda assumed he'd still be snagging Japcrap in RL though.

The glow won't tell you much. Just means more or less of the heater filament is covered by other components. Easy way is get some more valves and swap about.

It isn't wattage that breaks bass cabs, it is excursion, and working out that is much harder. Additionally the rating of the amp doesn't tell you much about what it is feeding the speakers. Especially since the impedance depending on frequency, in different ways for each cab means that some frequencies will be unevenly distributed.

[quote name='KimKG' timestamp='1322468791' post='1451033'] I'm curious, why is this a bad plan? Is the 1x15 more likely to blow in this situation? I was about to start running my rig as a 4x10 and 1x15 but I have the option to run as a 4x10 and 2x10 or 2x10 and 1x15 if either of those option would be safer. Sorry for the hijack but I figure any information shared would be relevant. Thanks Kim [/quote] The exact results of mixing are hard to predict, whereas using the same is easy to predict, same as one, but more. At some points in the back and forth movement of different speakers with the same signal they might be moving in different directions due to differences in how they respond to signal, and this shows up as inconsistent sound depending on where you are in relation to them. Additionally they might have different impedance characteristics (the 'ohms' is just a vague nominal figure', impedance is actually variable with frequency), which can put weird loads on your amp and unbalance the power. Simplest situation that can make one of your speakers die is that the happy one is being loud enough that the farting one is drowned out so you don't hear it and turn down.

Bassassin is showing his absence when japcrap like that remains at carbootsales.

Ohms isn't the thing. There are around 15 specs to match to the cab, so when you upgrade, its time to totally modify the cab to match. Best bet is to make the cab for the planned upgrade speaker, then bodge in the cheap one and plug up ports till it works. Also, don't build a 15 and a 2x10, make a pair of either.

Power amp is probably better if you like the sound of the Sansamp. The tasteful and musical slight mid scoop on the sansamp and the tasteful musical mid scoop on the hartke combine for a tasteless unmusical, vanish you in the mix massive mid scoop for example.

+1 on just a power amp to go with the Sansamp, it is all you need and so much more band for your buck.

Just noticed all my new listings have decided I accept returns, didn't used to be. Is a pop up screen to change it, so didn't change accidentally. Look out for that.

Dig how the rest of the workshop fits the same theme.

Due to a deal I cut with a local shop to supply them with instruments, I'm not shipping out as many as I am bringing in, so for the first time have an excess of boxes. So if you want one or two, come collect from The DoomHäus in Greenbank/Easton.

[quote]...and no-one will ever get up and go to the bar.[/quote] And the landlord won't pay you to play any more gigs there.

The single driver cabs use the sensitive driver, the mi loaded cabs use the low driver. The Kappalite 3015 is more sensitive than most 15s, the 3015LF loaded ones are power hungry. 150w amp into the 2x15 does me for my stupid loud with no PA support stuff.

I'd be interested in the Dirnt neck if you o go for that.

Local furniture making place should have a thicknesser.

Apply some force, see if it opens.