Mr. Foxen

Gauge isn't the only thing that determines tension/compliance, so if you are going custom, specify tension in the style of 'this brand and gauge at this tuning is what I like' rather than thickness.

Daddario do a 55-115/110 set, still pushing it with C, but that comes from someone that uses those in standard.

[url="http://www.soundspeakerrepair.com/speaker-parts-p/Delta-Pro-12A/"]This is the ojne I suggested.[/url] 80 oz magnet. The plain delta has a smaller one.

[url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Jolana-D-bass-1986-neck-through-electric-bass-/280736368641?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item415d310801"]Czech Jolana.[/url] Unusual one, dig the pickup layout and the screwdriver strap pin.

When you make the cab, plug up the port and see if it sounds good with guitar like that. Will answer that one.

What power ratings came up for comparable micro heads?

[quote name='CraigPlaysBass' post='1365888' date='Sep 7 2011, 10:51 PM']Ok, cheers! Would the 'differences' have any effect on the spec sheet for the deltapro 12a? I've also chucked it into Winisd (the online one as I am on a mac) and it seems to give me some ok results? I hope... As I don't really know what I'm doing with it [attachment=88915:Screen_s...22.49.09.png][/quote] Maybe, but probably not such a huge one as to endanger anything. There's a fair bit of wiggle room, if you are just making a bass cab. Go a little bigger on teh box, and have a port you can change the length of, like a telescopic one, that gives you options. Edit: typo

From looking at them, cheap OEM version of the Deltapro 12a, is 400w with massive magnet at least. Proper ones have cast frame. Not much idea on what else would have changed though.

Trace V-types are great, they are a Fender bassman circuit. Sansamp VT bass is also great. Pretty much consider the V-Type for clean an the VT for grit.

Pretty sure it is as 8 ohm as any other 8ohm cab. Close enough for most purposes. Think it was initally a case of when you actually measure impedance, the relevant parts of the plot give it a 6 ohm rating, but many other cabs marked 8ohm are equivalent amounts different. Maybe he altered the crossover design too. I think the Fearful cabs, developed in parallel cross over at around 800hz, guess similar for this.

Just fired it up. Initially the low driver basically making everything in my house vibrate made it hard to tell, but switching to using the sansamp paradriver with its more EQ options says the mid sounds much healthier now.

Seems influenced by that George Smed guy that was doing the forum rounds when I was starting. Did Wonderful Tonight in that style.

[quote name='JTUK' post='1364711' date='Sep 6 2011, 10:09 PM']Looks decent enough..and if it works, you can colour it in with a felt tip. I'd be more interested in how it came to all this...!![/quote] As in what broke the speaker? With the hole, I can't see it being from abuse in the practice space. My guess is it was poked through before and the flap secured, and the studio abuse opened it up again. Advantage of silicon over PVA, is that I have silicon. Have some white wood glue, but it is thick stuff.

Did you previously use a Monster cable?

Looks like they aren't too much money to replace. Had a go at a fix I read on another forum, silicon the hole and push the flaps into place, then stick a single ply of tissue over it with some more silicon: See how that works tomorrow. Neighbours will love that I have to push it to know.

Left my BFM cab at the practice space, one time I came back and the cover was missing, and when I used it, it totally farted out in the mids really fast. Finally got it home, and investigated: That the likely source of the trouble, and can I fix it, bearing in mind it is on the flexi bit? Or does anyone have am Alpha 8 MRA going spare?

How hard depends on what he stuck it on with. Need to remove the neck, clean it out and reglue it, shouldn't be massively challenging, but cleaning out some glues can be tedious.

Avoid getting busted by the feds. Fretboards don't need much wood, but it needs to be stable and a lot of work goes in if you aren't using CNC to do it. Bunches of things there aren't so suitable for fretboards, but to an extent, anything hard can work, especially if it is sealed like a maple board.

Those cabs sound like they aren't light, if you don't mind not so light cabs, you have good options second hand for a low price.

Sounds like you could do a lot better on the cab. The 600w means nothing, an the Sheffield drivers might not agree with the new cab as well as they could. If you on't want loads of bottom, eq it out, see how much you can pull low faders without being unhappy.

[quote name='dannybuoy' post='1363451' date='Sep 5 2011, 09:06 PM']Get a special cable to run em in series and they will be 8 ohms together which will work through any amp![/quote] Not the SVT.

Heavily depends on the tone more than the tuning, how much bottom are you trying to get?