Mr. Foxen

[quote name='bartelby' post='1343183' date='Aug 17 2011, 02:41 PM']The only shop in Newport seems to think that charging the maximum they can for products is the way to keep people buying local. I had buy a set of strings, fogot to order from stringbusters, so I popped into the shop. Online a set of nickel D'addario mediums is £14.30, in the shop £24.99 (you can get a twin pack online for £22 FFS!!). They charge the RRP for instruments too.[/quote] I guess strings are one of the very few regular sellers, so you have to make your money somewhere. Shops being retail establishments and all, charging the price recommended would also seem fair. Thing is, internet shops are a pain too, all about the second hand market. No income tax, no guarantee...

I'd look at the caps before you look at the valves.

Cracking sounds is usually a bad connection somewhere, follow along the path.

Watts don't matter, all about the cabs.

Matt Matthias would be all over class D like he was with MOSFET.

I know it is different, but what is it that makes the difference between mids from a guitar amp, and bumping mids. Is it just because the mids are mostly distortion products?

Basswood with some character is a novelty.

Wattages are pretty much meaningless. You can have them different on the head and cab either way. There is a limit to how much power a cab can take, but it isn't related to the wattage rating on them. There is also a limiter on the amp of how much wattage it puts out, called the volume knob, and that is where you match it to the cab.

Robbie Williams on sax solos: fair.

Value, or how much it will cost you? I might know of one going, but they seem to be £250-£300, which is basically, too much for how useful they are, considering you can get clones. Could measure up the components in this one, as the drifting does affect the tone.

His bass rig dwarfs the guitar stuff rpetty well, but:

I have/do. It sounds massive done right. You don't need nearly as much power in the guitar amp side, because the lows come from the bass amp. A 4x12 does help by being irectional enough you can move out of the feedback area if you don't want that going on. Pinch harmonics on bass are fun. Just bear in mind how much amp your guitarist needs to keep up with you volume wise. that shows what you need.

From the exploded Ashdown stack I have sat here, I suspect you might need a bit more, also, might be better with a 2x10 on top of the 2x10, keep stuff the same, so one doesn't drown out the other breaking. Plus, can do the tall narrow stack, better that way. What sort of metal, what sort of tuning?

Looks like a hard blow will sort the stripping, the refin might be a bit harder.

[url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ned-callan-1970s-rare-bass-guitar-4-string-/260835329647?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item3cbaff466f"]This Ned callan has some potential after some work though.[/url]

I also thought US Fenders were all alnico. Maybe MIM? on't recall staggered poles on my MIM, but there are tones of models.

[url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Westone-Thunder-Bass-guitar-/270799380338?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item3f0ce69f72"]BIN or best offer Westone Thunder in South London.[/url]

6 string: Basically, good technique and practice will sort you.

This seemed to resolve, I've been using DR coloured strings, and old sets. but I jsut stuck a set of Rotosounds on a guys bass and have been palying it, and it is happening again. Dunno if it is the newness or specifically Rotosounds that do it, the steels on my other bass are Ken smiths, they've been on it forever. Maybe it is some sort of chemical on Rotos.

Wire brushing will deepen the grain pattern.

Gah, where would I put my thumb?

I've found wiping stuff over with meths helps, cleans off the grease, generally that is on old parts though.