Mr. Foxen

Pretty sure that 1000w will kill the ABM 4x10 dead, the 500w will be enough to push it to its limits.

Brew shops do the washers for 10p each or something.

Missing wood makes that a tough one, as can't steam out the dent. Cut it out square and put a patch in is probably the proper way. Filling it with dark wax is the bodgier way, you can get wax for the purpose.

Bunch more resistors arrived, which I loved due to my hangover, especially with multiple parcel delivery people turning up, followed by the builder and my Dad arriving seperately. Put them in, one removed seems to be open circuit, but is in a position where there is another path for current, I think that one might have been the problem. No more oscillation, even more volume, but also more hiss, or possibly both of those might be down to the hangover. A pile of ECC81 also arrived, which I might swap in, lower gain than the 12AX7 so might help, at the cost of reduced EQ sweep (which is still huge compared to passive stacks).

If I still have Hiwatt cabs, happy to talk about them, if I don't it will be nostalgia for when I did, and we can talk that stuff now.

Layers of glue and tissue could sort the hole.

I jsut ordered some. I think the slippery will stop the horrible squeak when changing chords with driven trebely amp.

Bid and don't collect, say you just wanted to watch it.

New 0.047uf caps arrived, and the oscillation is fixed. Woo, wanna put it in the box and call it one, but some more resistors are coming and I wanna put them in, see if it seriously fixed the last of the hiss (which isn't very bad at all now, but I don't run a tweeter). Edit: Balls, still does it, just not pushing it as hard so didn't set it off.

[quote name='bremen' post='1312582' date='Jul 22 2011, 12:03 PM']Class D should, in general, be more reliable than AB as there's so much less heat generated; heat is THE enemy when it comes to solid state electronics. It boils capacitors and stresses all those tiny little wires.[/quote] Big wires are the answer. And manly lead solder, for people smart enough to not lick the inside of their equipment.

[quote name='chris_b' post='1312506' date='Jul 22 2011, 11:13 AM']The last time I was there was before the start of class D, but when I went to amp repairer John Kelly's workshop, in Camden, he had a floor full of valve amps and very few SS amps.[/quote] That is because there was 40 years of valve amps and most broke SS goes in the bin right away. More of a construction method thing though. I have a discrete component SS power amp and whilst it is more stuff than a valve amp, it isn't super hard to work upon, unlike mini surface mount stuff, that I have no idea how to sort.

How hard was the trouble to fix when it happens is the start point. Additional difficulty with new gear is that no-one is allowed to use good solder any more, except the military and stuff to go into space.

Covered poles aren't very Fender either.

If you get a bust one and fix it up, you don't have to worry about reliability so much as you can fix it yourself (but need a gig backup).

It is probably more construction methods that make it hard to fix, everything is surface mount an modular, so to fix, just replace whole relevant module. If you want a long term amp, get a handwired valve one on turrets.

Some people can't grasp the concept of set your max bid. They must get very frustrated.

I wish I'd found [url="http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/resistorcalculator.php"]this resistor stripe translator[/url] before I worked them all out on paper.

Don't think they'll work for bass. If you sen over the existing covers, can probably put them in a powder coating batch an have them done in satin black, might cost some though, not sure if chrome needs stripping. PM and I'll make enquiries.

Variation on the theme:

[quote name='Jag_Bassist' post='1307449' date='Jul 18 2011, 09:14 AM']Does anyone know exactly what note the oc-2 starts to loose its tracking on?[/quote] Depends on the signal you feed it. Neck pickup tone off tracks lower, but you have no sound definition.

Often have to solder the sheets together. Use a meter and probes to check continuity.