Mr. Foxen

[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=133640"]Mammothsound[/url] Verellen Meat Smoke Current Ampeg lines The big Ashdowns.

Sticking to bass amps? Are you going to include small builders?

[quote name='umph' post='1289318' date='Jul 1 2011, 05:35 PM']haha good luck with that quest! think olis 300 might be a one off.[/quote] I always suspected there's a red and a yellow ones to go with, due to its blatant dub rig origin. Matamp factory trip is pending to collect a mates GT200 and 8x10, gonna see if I can poke about in the records. Plus part of the condition I got it on was it is used for Doom.

Maybe it was jsut the Midget with the plank across the front with the tweeter mounted on it.

They aren't true bypass, so it must still have had power to work when off.

Sure there was a tweeter option on the Compact.

Sold the Laney, pretty much covering it. Fair few amps to hit the market before the Matamp comes up. Plus I've got Al Cisneros ahead of you on the list of people that want to buy it.

What sort of figures should I be seeing on the transformers?

Clening is done. The stuff involving a meter I haven't done, don't really know what I'm up to with it. how would I check the transformer for shorts? All the electrolytics have been replaced. Sop fire it up without valves in and stick the meter in the valve bases, what voltages am I looking for in there, on what pin numbers (actually caught myself there, then realised that is valid use of the phrase 'pin number').

If I'm picturing the right cab, is it sealed? Means the driver probably isn't suitable. The Midget uses a Kappalite driver.

[quote name='AttitudeCastle' post='1285481' date='Jun 28 2011, 05:57 PM']Are you trying to single handedly undo [topic="126658"]this!?[/topic] Intresting thread, even with my lack of valve amp knowledge! If i may ask how much did the 9 amps cost in total?[/quote] They are all hosted on photobucket so aren't taking up BC space. Don't really want to talk money, it is pretty unlikely that I'll be keeping them all and I don't want people bringing it into it when I try and move them on. [quote name='3below' post='1285524' date='Jun 28 2011, 06:41 PM']Looking at the DIY can capacitor, I wonder if you could fit them inside 35mm plastic piping. If so you could glue a pipe end cap on and have a low cost tidy can capacitor. Might work, might not.[/quote] i consider pulling off the plastic sleeve from the existing cap, but it was too small anyway. Cooling was a possible issue that occurred to me, but I don't think they are supposed to get hot.

Check the other stuff, they'll get crappy bids cause look at the delivery conditions.vIf you are going there, can you pick up stuff I win and send to me? Cheers.

Barefaced have an SVT cab soundalike coming out, think uses ferrite drivers, so won't be super light, but bet will beat the fridge by a fair bit. I reckon a pair of 2x10s like the chambers in a fridge, with B810s is the true path, to stack vertical.

Woah, routing the bridge is much too extreme. Just shim the neck pocket, fag packet is the Fender way, but any bit of dense card is fine, just a little strip, probably about half an inch long, across the end of the pocket. Sort that right out.

Through the investigative process of reading the OP's signature, I deduce he has an Ampeg head already. Sealing a cab isn't hugely difficult to arrange, but might be better getting a ready made cab.

The GLX on is cast and totally fine.

This one involves loads of really similar pictures, where I hope anyone might notice stuff I may have cocked up. Turns out labeling things 'positive' and 'negative' relative to the lugs from which I detached them isn't great when the positives and negatives are sometimes connected together. Old cap pushed out, new ones pushed in, wrapped in electrical tape, classy, but appropriate to the originals (stick on foam held it in the oversize clamp). Old wired trimmed of melted insulation from desoldering, and the ends curled round need nose pliers to secure to legs, since there aren't proper lugs, looks a lot like a paperclip sculpture due to nothing being trimmed: Same again, with solder and poking out ends trimmed, smooth shiny soldering contrasting the horrible bodgery it is on (cleaning everything with a meths dipped cotton bu seems to help a lot). Insulation slipped over the last leg that is the cap that was in the clip so needs connecting to the board: Connection to the board, nice trailing wires, faithful to the existing style or willy nilly cable routing. I don't know enough about lead dress to know if I can do this better. And from the top, on the left, original cap, wedged in with foam you can see at the edge, middle my work with the tape, and on the right, nicely fitted big modern cap I put in earlier: Replacing the last one should be much less trouble, gonna go for similar style, but with just two caps, and figure wedging them in the clamp.

If it is a sealed cab, go B810, designed for Ampeg 8x10s.

[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=121822"]Thread on it here.[/url]

[quote name='Musicman20' post='1284365' date='Jun 27 2011, 05:23 PM']See that's more like it! Thanks! Why are they so cheap if they contain neos?![/quote] In stock. Probably will go up next time they have to buy some.

The 33uf electros arrived today. Due to my refusal to use overpriced made for audio caps, these are totally the wrong size for the clips and clamps holding in the originals (we're talking £8 for one 32-32 450v cap in a big can, or £7 for ten single radial ones). Here's the ones in there, and the new ones in the background: Took a ton of pics in case I mess something up, and labelled the wires before I took anything off. A cluster of three caps looks about right to fit in the clamp where one was before, the originals are doubles, so the third one can replace the cap in the clip, making things much neater. Here they are assembled, and everything labelled, floating cap and clip removed. Paused because I can't find my spanner to undo the clamp: