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Mr. Foxen

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Everything posted by Mr. Foxen

  1. [quote name='Steff' post='1264936' date='Jun 11 2011, 02:16 PM']Ampeg svt IIp preamp first with a cheap Crown amp, then with an Ampeg power amp - now I loved that one, but the amp wasn't as powerful as I needed. Probably the best all-around combination I've had so far. And that is the only Ampeg combination I like - all of the other ampegs sound very muddy to me in the lows...[/quote] Surely this, and a bigger power amp is the true path, if lack of power was the only issue.
  2. [quote name='skidder652003' post='1277550' date='Jun 21 2011, 07:30 PM']Yeah, the cheeky tw*t used some of my copy on my bass Im selling and the link to my band, www.lemonrock.com/archive bloody cheek! [/quote] Can report him to ebay for copying your stuff, and get auction pulled. Course you make him a lowball offer with your contact details first.
  3. So, he makes a big point of saying they sell in 75 countries, an refuses to offer these to more than 1 country?
  4. The SP210 is a 1x10 for the price of a 2x10.
  5. If you do want to learn to use WinISD, much better off using it to model cabs that you already have, or have heard, because that way you learn what sounds look like on a graph.
  6. What amp are you planning on using this with? Might suit older amps with less power/lows, and the 'deficiencies' might be more significant with modern amps.
  7. If you don't think it is loud enough, more/bigger cabs is the way.
  8. [url="http://musical-instruments.shop.ebay.co.uk/Bass-/4713/i.html?_trkparms=65%253A12%257C66%253A2%257C39%253A1%257C72%253A4906&rt=nc&_dmpt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_sop=10&_sc=1"]This is a link to newly listed basses on ebay.[/url] check it often, grab something Buy it Now.
  9. Ha, the grub makes it look like a cheap pale rosewood board underneath.
  10. Other option is to hunt out an unloaded 2x15. If you can get hands on it, should cost you very little, shipping is the pain. PM Thornybank, I know he has various things to suit, and probably the inclination to unload them if they are loaded. Spendier method is to have Matamp make you an unloaded 2x15. Dubster is totally far from what you want.
  11. How much money d'ya think Sound City are making from their amps that are still chugging along, or Hiwatt, or Burman? All none, worked themselves out of a job. Funny that the ones that headed towards a bit shoddy are still going. Laney Klipp: SC120 I'm working on, see build diary thread elsewhere:
  12. Got solder. Also found leftover caps from previous SC120 I worked on. Interestingly the red plastic job, that was hidden under other stuff in earlier pics, was a 1uf but on the previous amp it was a 4uf. I checked the schematic and that says 4, so getting a 4 in there. Took a ton of photos for this bit, because it involved disconnecting things do give me space to solder other things. Will try and pick out informative ones. Nutpains here were: The screws in the clamps were really corroded, so couldn't loosen the clamps much, and someone has wrapped one can in tape and stuck some sort of foam to the other to lodge them in, so they didn't come easily, ended up WD40 around them, and pushing the out from the inside with a blunt thing. Then I realised I had to do the exact same thing because the clamps wouldn't tighten either, I used some stick on gasket stuff, like weather strip for doors, but a bit finer, came with hifi drivers, 4 bits around the can made it a snug fit. The objective: underneath the rectifier diodes (the smarty caps attached are snubbing caps to suppress noises from the diodes switching) Wrapped in black electrical tape. Replaced bias cap on the left, tape wrapped smoothing cap, off shot the diodes from the rectifier have been lifted off the turrets along the bottom: The other one, with resistors lifted out of the way, looks like someone was crushing the turrets to hold the components legs in place, bit of a ballpain. New ones installed and bits stuck back down, lumpy soldering where the crushed turrets made a pain of themselves, they should have a nice slot on the top which makes stuff really easy: The new caps have two false legs for securing them to PCBs, since they are chunky items. Also, small electro I replaced on the preamp board, I used some stripped off sleeve to insulate the legs to avoid shorting fun with the inappropriate radial cap in an axial's place.
  13. Most of the caps I ordered have now arrived. What hasn't arrived is solder. FS. Mission out to try an find some proper lead solder in a local shop now.
  14. [quote name='TPJ' post='1275628' date='Jun 20 2011, 10:27 AM']I found Greenboy's site but didn't know where to look for the info you need [url="http://greenboy.us/fEARful/"]http://greenboy.us/fEARful/[/url][/quote] He seems to have taken them down. Did find a thread with loads though: [url="http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-general-discussion/14410-downloadable-winisd-pro-files-3.html"]here.[/url]
  15. Kind of sorted now, cheers Count Bassie. The one I had was a measured one from Greenboy (who designed the fEarful cabs in parallel with the original Barefaced cab).
  16. I've gigged a white Johnson P bass playing Doom. Actually, singer from same band plays a White Fender Precision in his other bands.
  17. Got a new PC and it isn't saved on it. An Greenboy's site that had it seems to be gone.
  18. [quote name='Evil Undead' post='1274393' date='Jun 19 2011, 08:00 AM']I am intrigued by the sticky Velcro dots idea as well, no drilling are the dots easy to remove if I want to?[/quote] Same as removign stickers. Meths, white spirit or WD40 are my favoured weapons there.
  19. [quote name='Nostromo' post='1274087' date='Jun 18 2011, 08:28 PM']Thanks for all the input so far guys . . . . I guess it gives me a lot to think about ? . . . . Must say, I haven’t got access to, or the knowledge of, WinISD Alpha Pro so not sure I'm likely to be able to employ anything like a computer program to any advantage, but I do take the point that it could produce a more optomised cab design for the speakers . . . having said that I wouldn't know what effect that would have on the sound/tone/character of the cab ? . . I guess we all sort of know that basic sound that 2 x 15"cabs tend to have . . . and I sort of like that old vintage sound. . . and that’s definitely what I'm after here ? Obviously I'd like to create a cab that presents a good environment for those drivers to sit in . . one that would let them sound their best and operate properly ? . . I hadn't realised that the 70's cabs were developed with so little technical input . . sounds like it was more luck than judgement if they sounded good ? . . . I do like the picture posted up by Mr Foxen . . . thats the sort of thing I had in mind I think ? Not sure where to go next now ! . . . Further comments much appreciated ! [/quote] Most of the midrange colouration that you hear is the speakers, that will be the same between cabs, aside from some stuff fro the box not being lined and stuff. I don't actually know if the old cabs were lined or not, it is kind of important, guitar cabs are pretty much never lined, and they are all about speaker colouration. WinISD deals with the stuff below 200hz, in the bass sort of area, old cabs tend toward a midbass hump, remove that and you've removed an important part of the sound, you can design it in with WinISD if you know how, but it defaults to flat, rather than humped. Mostly, the coloured one I posted is awesomely large and heavy.
  20. Use sticky velcro dots. Wipe over with meths to degrease first, they'll stick better.
  21. This is classic car restoration again. Better, or actually what he wants. I just shot around some messages to get hold of the guy that made this, see if he can hook you up with a plan:
  22. I have a Black Westone Thunder 1A, it is pretty heavy, not a Jet because it has metal coloured hardware. I heard they were solid maple bodies. The wood coloured ones were Ash with a maple/walnut center.
  23. He is looking for a 70s design, not looking to design a new cab. A 70s speaker in a 70s design cab that would have had that speaker in will give you a 70s sound, which I would kind of hope is his design goal here. Suggesting he make a new design, with knowledge he doesn't have applied to specifications that aren't available is astoundingly unhelpful.
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