Mr. Foxen

+1 on finding the source of the problem before trying to correct it.

[quote name='Prime_BASS' post='1218521' date='May 3 2011, 12:55 PM']The Barefaced line are all efficient.[/quote] Not sure that that is true, the woofer/mid ones are all about using tons of power to move loads of air in a small light package, and the small ones are for being able to take tons of power while still being small. The idea is they have a variety of sets of compromises in the line up.

All about the plural.

Bigger cabs are more efficient for low end due to physics, but the speaker efficiency and alignment has an effect, ported will have a better low efficiency than a sealed cab of the same size, due to the port reinforcing the sound in the lows. Horn cabs for bass are possible, BFM offers a load of partially horn loaded models, as well as horn subs, but the low efficiency comes at the cost of mids (hence multi way designs). I had a lighweight 6x12 by Tecamp, and it was great, and very light, but I had to sell it when I quit my job. The Barefaced Vintage/Super 15 is made for efficiency, 2x15 with top end speakers.

The is a Peavey 1820 or similar in for sale, it has biamp capability, so you can run two amps in, the mid drivers won't cope with that orange full tilt though. Might be able to rig a hi-pass before the Orange to keep them shiny and safe. Edit: checked and the one in for sale isn't made for biamping, but could probably be made to be.

[quote name='stevie' post='1216467' date='May 1 2011, 12:02 PM']I wish people would stop recommending WinISD on here. It's a tool, but like any tool, unless you know what you're trying to achieve with it, it will give you a false sense of security. I don't need WinISD to tell me that the box size is much too big and the drivers are useless for bass guitar. I'm not surprised it sounds rubbish. Sell the drivers and get some proper ones. Sorry if that's not what you want to hear. Incidentally, I doubt very much if your drivers have an xmax of 10mm because they are midrange drivers, which don't need a large xmax.[/quote] WinISD is useful because lots of people here have experience with it, so can point out how to use it. I have literally no idea if the other programs will even show excursion/power charts and such which are what tells you why you have farting out. The fact it is farting out tells you something is wrong already. SVT cab uses midrange drivers, but in a suitable box (sealed one with lots of them).

[quote name='mattyfunk13' post='1216107' date='Apr 30 2011, 08:18 PM']I also agree about the neck wood comments, if you have a neck with a 3 or 5 part construction is there a credible difference to the tone or is it just the manufactures just showing off their craft? The latter I expect.[/quote] There is a significant difference between the tone of someone trying to play a bass with a warped neck, and an immaculately set up bass, so a lot of the multi part neck construction is there.

Get a full set of Thiele-Small parameters from them, and use that for the modelling, and look at the excursion chart. 10mm Xmax sounds a bit magical. The fancy Neodymium 15" woofers (made for xmax, at the cost of mids and highs) don't have an xmax that high. You could also try lowering your port tuning until they stop farting out, by extending the port, eventually the low end will choke off though.

There is no Xmax figure there, that is the one that tells you how much power the speakers will take before fartijng out. I suspect it may not be high for these speakers, you want to aim for around 4-6mm. Really need a full set of Thiele-Small parameters for good modelling, as well as a frequency response chart (because modelling doesn't tell you much around the midrange. WinISD Alpha is the recommended program, and the things you need to look for are excursion limited power handling, but I think the default is often the response curve, that will tell you if you cab will sound funny with one watt, but the power handling one will tell you why it is farting out.

[quote name='Arrakis' post='1215856' date='Apr 30 2011, 02:58 PM']Ok thanks for the replies. Its going to used in a supportive role rather than a lead sound playing detuned stoner/doom pushing out lots of fuzz/drive going to be running in conjunction with a 2x15, the 2x15s dont especially sound great at pushing out the fuzz. Now I have had a very mixed response about this on various forums including this one, theyre going in a Matamp Retro 4x12, now Ive phoned the factory and their view is that it should be fine to swap out the guitar speakers for bass drivers, now before people start saying thats wrong I have also spoken with someone whos done it with good results so my point to this thread is to basically find out what drivers on the market are good for specific styles/sounds etc Does anyone have a contact number for barefaced bass? would be great to chat to them about this and get their view.[/quote] Barefaced Super 12 or super 15 (2x15) is bright enough for the top of the fuzz, and bottomy enough for the low end. You won't need anything else unless you are multi amping. My 4x12 uses OEM speakers comparable to the Eminence Delta12LFA, they roll off a lot of top, but toppy fuzz into them sounds good, with the edges knocked off. For really aggressive sharp drive noises, not going to beat leaving guitar drivers in the cab and running a guitar amp into it. Using bass drivers in a guitar cab loses you the highs and the lows. And if you are using a muff based fuzz, you lose the mids too. Fail. The Barefaced site has a Doom rig recommendation, it is at the bottom of the Dubster description.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/KAY-BASS-GUITAR-/120718009495?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item1c1b5aa497"]Kay[/url]

[quote name='SS73' post='1215377' date='Apr 29 2011, 10:25 PM']Pretty sure that style of hub cap is pressed Stainless around 0.5/0.6mm gauge. Speaking of tone metals, Magnesium is a fantastic metal, extremely light, very strong and has nice sonic properties, on the downside its very susceptible to corrosion, can be quite brittle and of course if it catches fire it will be gone before you have chance to undo the straplocks.[/quote] Been looking into magnesium alloy necks, significantly lighter than aluminium, and stiff enough for racing car chassis/bell housings. If you are on fire enough for your bass to be on fire, you have enough problems, but I'd still stay clear of headstock pyros.

[quote name='Lfalex v1.1' post='1215324' date='Apr 29 2011, 09:14 PM']Also of note is the fact that it's not a modern plastic [i]wheelcover[/i]. One made from an inch-thick slice of alloy wheel would be phenomenal (and durable!) Jack socket through the valve hole, naturally...[/quote] The Rick bridges I still have half made are the same stuff as alloy wheels.

[quote name='Dad3353' post='1215189' date='Apr 29 2011, 06:25 PM']There are better places for storing 'sh*t' than shelves (personally I've given up collecting the stuff; smells bad after a while...).[/quote] Good airy shelf and it will mummify in only a few days.

[quote name='Ghost_Bass' post='1214788' date='Apr 29 2011, 12:37 PM']I don't understand! Every amp i know has it's Master Volume in the end of the signal path just before it enters the power amp section (hope i'm not talking sh***) and the FX Loop comes before that knob so it won't be able to afect it! On the other side if it would indeed defeat the Master Volume if we were using simple stompboxes how would we balance the amp's volume??? I know i can control the volume of every amp i've owned with FX units connected on the loop! Or am i generating a big confusion here and the truth is that what you (and they) are calling Master Volume i usualy call Gain?!! For me Master Volume is the volume of the power amp and i refer to the pre-amp's volume as Gain!!! Cheers[/quote] If you put the VT bass in the fx loop of the amp, rather than just plugging it direct into the FX return, the master volume will still be active, but mostly, this is about going bass to Sansamp to FX return, so the Sansamp knobs replace the bass amps ones.

Half the impedance, plus twice the coupling, means 4 times the power going into the air (6db gain), there is sounding louder, but power in the air makes stuff shift off walls.

[quote name='wateroftyne' post='1214978' date='Apr 29 2011, 02:59 PM']Why is it wrong? TNIT had a valid point (albeit harshly put), and Golchen had an open platform to come back.[/quote] There wasn't a link between the point and the statement to which it was made. There was an incorrect assumption, which Golchen (I think) pointed out.

Funnily enough, Off-topic is really sound right now. I'm gonna go call some people racists, and make fun of people who have cried off the forum.

Aluminium is a well known tone 'wood'.

Swap some lower gain pre valves into the 500 and see if that sorts you. Much more likely the issue is in the pre than the power section, running out of power in an class D power section sounds seriously horrible.

Tune your bass in 5ths and learn to play all over again. Or get a fretless, new thinking freshens stuff up loads.

[quote name='Ghost_Bass' post='1214788' date='Apr 29 2011, 12:37 PM']I don't understand! Every amp i know has it's Master Volume in the end of the signal path just before it enters the power amp section (hope i'm not talking sh***) and the FX Loop comes before that knob so it won't be able to afect it! On the other side if it would indeed defeat the Master Volume if we were using simple stompboxes how would we balance the amp's volume??? I know i can control the volume of every amp i've owned with FX units connected on the loop! Or am i generating a big confusion here and the truth is that what you (and they) are calling Master Volume i usualy call Gain?!! For me Master Volume is the volume of the power amp and i refer to the pre-amp's volume as Gain!!! Cheers[/quote] [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=3730"]See here.[/url] Basically, everything is gain, hardly anything is master volume. The power section basically set at volume, and you only control volume at preamp level, before it gets to them. Last thing I had with an FX loop I used to bypass the preamp was an Ashdown combo, and the 'master' volume was bypassed.

Would be my sansamp, except that I keep selling them and buying another shortly after. hopefully settled on a Paradriver and a VT bass now.

+1 on squeeze with pliers method, just keep it to a minimum and you should be fine, there is no flexing there so weakening stuff shouldn't be an issue until you start squeezing the core. I had to get my giant set taperwound to fit through bridges.

[quote name='Ghost_Bass' post='1213738' date='Apr 28 2011, 12:32 PM']I think they meant " this will defeat the amp's pre-amp gain pot"... The master volume will always work regardless of where you plug in your signal... or have i been using weird amps?!! A very big mistake from their side![/quote] Some master volumes are defeated, I think phase inverter master volumes (Marshalls?) won't be, but those are a bit specialist.