Mr. Foxen

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' post='1214146' date='Apr 28 2011, 08:09 PM']Eminence isn't above recommending drivers for more applications than they should. It's up to the consumer to check the specs and make sure of suitability. With only 2.4mm xmax I don't recommend it for bass unless it's for use with less than 50 watts. IMO 4mm is the minimum acceptable. 2.4mm is OK for what it should be used as, PA midbass, just like its smaller sibling.[/quote] Is that for one or 4? 50 watts each in a 4x10 sounds enough.

[quote name='squire5' post='1213929' date='Apr 28 2011, 04:21 PM']Chris,the blurb on the Eminence website says that the Delta 10 is optimized for lead guitar,so I'm more confused than ever.[/quote] Not sure you are looking at the right thing there: [quote]Eminence recommend the DELTA 10 10"speaker for professional audio and bass guitar applications as a woofer/mid-bass or mid-range in vented monitors, satellites and multi-way enclosures.[/quote] That sounds about right for your purpose. They look a lot like the drivers in some bass cabs I've seen, maybe SWR, or Warwick, grey cones and a big dust cap, not that that means much.

That might be a BCers. There was an offer to BC for Matamp 6x10s that looked like that. Fairly sure Tayste has played with one at the factory, but not owned one. Edit: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=105596"]Thrad here, maybe he does own one.[/url]

What was the problem with those toroidals then? Were the power trannies OK? Totally curious.

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' post='1213871' date='Apr 28 2011, 03:13 PM']They shouldn't have, it's the least expensive driver they make. In any event should you have to do any more driver replacement first choose the appropriate model based on the driver T/S specs and how it models in your cab, not the recommendation of a retailer. If the retailer really knew what he was talking about he'd be designing drivers and speakers, not selling them. [/quote] Hmm, I think I can make some pretty good calls on speakers at this point, Should I move into retail?

According to the Eminence site, the Alpha 10s are for small sealed cabs. Fairly sure that Trace is ported. So basically, never listen to anything that dealer says.

Email H&K, they might have one, and if they don't, they might give you the spec. Peavey send me the spec for the Tmax head transformer.

I reckon disbelieve the dealer, and email Celestion, telling them the whole situation, and see what they recommend. The wattage can change, but if they are the same magnet material, changing mass that much would probably shift around all sorts of parameters.

The keyboard player dresses as the wrong sort of magician.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='1213614' date='Apr 28 2011, 10:47 AM']I'd delete Rule 3! And head and cab wattage hardly matter at all.[/quote] Rule 3 is good for the 'math is hard' crew, and valve amp users. My pre lending valve amps question is 'If you have an 8ohm and a 16 ohm cab, to what impedance should you set my nice valve head that I am graciously lending you?'. The correct answer being '8 or 16 ohm, and only use that cabinet.'

[quote name='MatthewKeys' post='1213415' date='Apr 28 2011, 01:14 AM']Right yea I think I know what you mean. But how do would you fix that problem?[/quote] You don't make the problem, by not getting an 8 ohm 4x10 and a 8 ohm 2x10. Get a 16 ohm 2x10 to got with an 8ohm 4x10.

was kind of hoping you wouldn't ask, explaining is hard when tired. Basically, if you think of a 8 ohm 4x10 with 8 ohm speakers, it will be wired as two 16 ohm 2x10s in one box, so when you add a third 16 ohm 2x10, all three are the same, thus power distributes evenly. If you have an 8 ohm 2x10 and an 8 ohm 4x10, both complete cabinets will get an equal amount of power, so the 2x10 will be getting twice as much power per speaker than the 4x10, so it will be struggling whilst the 4x10 is coasting and drowning the struggling sounds out.

If you are doing the 2x10 + 4x10, try and get matching ones with the same speakers, and the 2x10 double the impedance of the 4x10, so when used together, each individual speakers gets the same power.

[quote name='ficelles' post='1213387' date='Apr 28 2011, 12:21 AM']I feel that may not be a sentence to use over in the Les Paul forum... That was me. Another swap and your Ashdown combo is now a practice amp for one of the loudest classic rock outfits in Bristol. ficelles[/quote] Good to know it is still doing good work. As for the Les Paul forum, they wouldn't like what I have to say about Gibsons either. Mate just showed me his new pride and joy brand new Gibson; couldn't not point out that the neck/bridge was misaligned, since it would still be in warranty .

Awaiting arrival of a guitar amp, one of which I already have, won it on ebay, badly listed, knowing how good they are, stuck on a bid thinking 'it is worth so much more than that, I'll do the guy a favour and push the price', theoretically increasing the value of my own. So now I have two, good thing too, since Shockwave managed to break mine at tonight's jam.

[quote name='xgsjx' post='1213348' date='Apr 27 2011, 11:38 PM']Mixing speakers of different sizes that operate in the same frequencies cause something called combing (where different frequencies are cancelled out or multiplied). Sometimes it has a positive effect, sometimes a negative effect, there's a lot of things to take into account. Using the same size speakers means you're not going to get random results every gig. Does it have to be Ampeg? If not then there's loads of better cabs out there.[/quote] Combing is more of a speakers distance apart thing. Different speakers, I think, is more of a phase issue, they might be moving in different directions in certain points of their travel, which cancels out sound. Plus the sensitivity and power handling differences, which is more of a safety thing, even if you 'like the tone' of mixed speakers, one set might be louder and handle more power, so if the quieter one is struggling and breaking up, you won't hear it and turn down as it is drowned out by the other.

8x10 + 8x10 + 8x10 + 8x10 Doom.

Alnico is just another magnet material, the way the speaker is buiilt round it is what changes the response. The crappy glue at the time was what made them have low power ratings. Neos tend towards being modern construction, so more clean excursion, more power handling, so cleaner less vintage tone. Kind of depends what aspects of vintage tone you are after. The Vintage 30 is a modern speaker, designed to emulate vintage tones, so they 'handle' 60w instead of 30, but break up like old speakers (although they aren't as worn in as old speakers, so sound harsh for a bunch of time till they soften up). I did swap my Ashdown combo (first amp) for an Acoustic 126 a while back. Was that you?

[quote name='razze06' post='1212466' date='Apr 27 2011, 11:44 AM']Looks like this is an extra complex job! apparently, the power stage is based on the bassman 100 schematics, but the pre is more like a fender twin. There's lots of other minor errors, like components with the wrong value, swapped controls ("high" is in fact "low"), but the OPT is spot on, so the most expensive piece of kit is solid and will stay. The tech is really taking a shine to this, and is putting in lots of time and effort. Will let you know when I know more.[/quote] Good when a tech gets enthused about an amp. It is what I always look out for.

Don't chop up green cabs. You have a very excellent free option in dual amping. Try that first. Everyone that runs two amps has tried one amp at some point, they stuck with two.

Dale Crover backed me in an internet argument about flu jabs once. True story.

A bunch of the 'vintage' is in the low rating. Look at guitar speakers, they break up easy, any abass speakers have been made not to. Celestion vintage 30s are nice for driven clunky tones.

[quote name='jensenmann' post='1211864' date='Apr 26 2011, 06:11 PM']I´d always check microphonics when swapping tubes. Especially when the amp is exposed to vibrations like being placed on cabs. Put the new tube in it´s place, give the amp a minute to warm up and carefully knock with the rear of a screwdriver on the bulb. Compare what you hear from different tubes and use the one with the lowest noise. Microphonic tubes will smear the sound in a very unpleasant way.[/quote] Plastic or wooden chopstick is best, metal things can neatly connect you to the plate voltage if the glass breaks. Also, all valves are microphonic to an extent, you just want to ensure the most microphonic has the least gain after it, in an amp with cascading gain stages, the subsequent gain stages will amplify the noise coming through, so you might think that first valve is really microphonic, but it is actually the subsequent ones making the noise louder. It only really becomes a problem if you are in the habit of jabbing the inside of your amp whilst playing, or it is so microphonic it feeds back, if your amp is actually vibrating much, the problem is probably that your cab is flimsy.