Mr. Foxen

Dinky Doom.

If they are all in the same box, when the bass drivers go out, they'll try and suck the guitar drivers in, and that messes with all the speaker /air pressure balance stuff that goes into making a cab sound right. If there is two compartments, then you'd have bass drivers in a too small box, so probably wouldn't be loads better off than just using it as a guitar cab, and playing guitary bass, with the low cut.

[quote name='chris_b' post='1181862' date='Mar 30 2011, 09:28 AM']No it's not. It's also down to price, weight and effectiveness. Isobaric cabs for bass fail on all three.[/quote] The fact Orange still exist as a large and generally successful company is the basis for my statement. They still make unbraced sealed bass cabs, and expensive valve amplifiers in the far east. How does that tick any of those boxes?

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' post='1181660' date='Mar 29 2011, 11:25 PM']It was advantageous 30 years ago and more when driver technology made it necessary for cabs to be very large to reach very low. And then it was applied pretty much to hi-fi woofers and subs, not electric bass cabs, explaining why they weren't employed in them. Ampeg made one, and it was a commercial failure.[/quote] Any idea how the Ampeg thing measured up in practice? Commercial failure/success is more down to garish colour schemes and dubious marketing than anything practical.

Matamp will make you one. Valve slaves come up on ebay. Could use a valve head and bypass the pre, less stylin though. And old valve PA would also sort you. You just missed out on my Strategy.

The significant advantage is Orange's favourite thing, it makes a fundamentally mundane item stand out as being different. I think in the days when speaker motor power was limited it was a fair advantage, but not so much now.

Basically, with an isobaric 2x12 like the Orange one, you get all the volume of a 1x12, in a box 'twice' as big. Twice in quotes as only the box behind the rear speaker counts. Most bass cabs are undersized for their speaker loadout, so the perception it these boxes are very bottomy. But you could make a standard 2x12 at the same price, and eq in some more bottom, as you'd have twice as much useful power handling, and sensitivity, because you have twice as much speaker touching the air, but the box would be necessarily bigger. Edit: Another way of picturing it: You are sticking together two speakers to make one speaker that is twice the weight, with twice the motor power, but with the same air moving ability as one speaker.

I had one of these, I got it for a similar price from Gumtree, I beat Nick to it by moments, and it was a few streets from him, so I cheekily had him go pick it up anyway. It sounded fine, like a P bass. Plywood body is no big deal, is actually good for consistency.

Fairly sure no need to take the board out, you just need to get the top off, of the bottom out, depending on how it is made, you can see the valves poking out inside, once those are visible, they might be under aluminium covers, with bayonet fittings (like a light bulb, push down and twist), then you can pull them out and push the new one in, with some wiggling.

[quote name='Pow_22' post='1180406' date='Mar 29 2011, 07:54 AM']The Ohm swith is actually a plug that you pull out then put back in at the correct seeting. I too thought it was just a turn switch hence why i thought it was stuck. Suppose an ideal scenario would be for a tech to say ''right, ill do a service, new valves with biasing and as payment you let me keep the mullards'' haha[/quote] General policy seems to be to do that and still charge you. So many amps I've seen that were clearly full ofMullards have been 'recently serviced' and loaded with rubbish. One clearly hadn't even had the chassis out of the case, they'd just swapped out the valves and sent it back, charged loads for it.

You can get very hard steel frets, to avoid the wear if you go for thin frets, most of my basses have big frets, but I've liked thin frets when I've had a chance to play them.

Ha, was thinking of bringing this up myself, mentioned it when talking to Nick recently. Figured I'd wait till I had my new workshop set up before I offered services.

They appeal to me, in theory, but they got pretty bad reviews, or had a jazzy neck, something put me off when I looked into it.

Personally, my policy is to whip out the old tired mullards, and sell them at their silly premium, and use that to fund a nice set of replaceable valves, and a service. Because if you proper run them into the ground, they'll be worthless, and you won't be able to get any more.

The Sound City selector is a plug, with a little window in it, pull it out, push it back in so the appropriate impedance shows through the window. Edit: As for cost, bill for a full amp service (I supplied valves) came to £118. I was pretty demanding, I know a lot of the time, techs working for musicians are expected to do the minimum to make it work for cost purposes, I wanted it to be pretty much as new. So new electrolytics (and uprated for more headroom without sag), new sockets and such. This local dude is known to be expensive but good, I knew other people would be cheaper, but I've seen their bodgy work and could totally do that myself.

Pretty sure that was an SG.

[quote name='Johnston' post='1178673' date='Mar 27 2011, 08:04 PM']You an me both. all I find is Dodgy ciggies, BB guns, rusty tools and if your lucky all the stuff the charity shops wouldn't take.[/quote] The trick is getting there before Bassassin.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Black-4-Stringed-Bass-Guitar-Rickenbacker-Style-/110667032827?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item19c444e8fb"]Apparently modern, treading various dodge ground, looks quite good.[/url]

I'm not sure Basswood has as much grain as in that picture, hope they make it out of something more interesting, rather than veneering it like the telebass.

I suspect paying by Paypal won't help you in contract terms, fairly sure money in your paypal account doesn't belong to you (hence Paypal being able to take it back and such), and all the rules that apply to bank stuff doesn't apply to Paypal as they aren't a bank (money in your bank account is a debt the bank owes you rather than being your money, but is highly regulated so they can't pull tricks like Paypal can). Ebay are pretty much uninterested in the 'refund you and don't send your item' game, the contract stuff is for the courts not them.

I reckon £375 is a stretch.

I've lit the clip lights on my Slave 300, it isn't hard. Also, the Ashdown power rankings are pretty similar to the Trace V4, V6 and V8. Are they all KT88 power sections? Different output stage types give different flavours, might be different bias types or UL or all sorts of fun (kind of doubt it though).

The ones that say 18-20 are definitely BSing, either through direct lies or the at -30db point style. Your 5 string probably doesn't have a pickup at the 12th fret position to make that 30hz fundamental very present. Your ear does not much for you below 50hz, nothing below maybe 100hz has much by way of 'tone' or character, it is more of a there or isn't kind of thing. [url="http://barefacedbass.com/technical-information.htm"]Link for techy stuff.[/url]

One handed drum fill is pretty cool: There is a one handed guitarist about, add in Ian Drury singing, with one tiny arm, and you have a band.