Mr. Foxen

I've been doing this sort of stuff at my Dad's workshop: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=114335"]Custom steel scratchplates.[/url] [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=114237"]Also the custom control plate from brass on DaveMauddib's Jaguar.[/url] Simple one offs are doable, but stuff like scratchplates with inside curves and suchlike need to be done in batches to be worthwhile.

[quote name='slave' post='1142337' date='Feb 26 2011, 02:01 PM']LOL. Good point. Awesome amps - but not quite the amp I'm looking for. I have played through an original OR120 before (with bass), and whilst it's the best stoner rock amp for guitar EVER!!!!, it's not quite what I'm after for bass. Awesome mid-range, but the bottom is just a little bit too fuzzy at the volumes I play at.[/quote] Shoot them a message and see if they'll do a KT88 amp, or have one in the works. [quote name='slave' post='1142337' date='Feb 26 2011, 02:01 PM']When I posted a questions about Matamp over on TB, I got PM's telling me that only a limey b*^@h would buy an amp like that, "just buy an ampeg man!" Didn't surprise me that much.....but I got a handful of PM's stating the same thing. I'm pretty much compelled NOT to buy an ampeg on that basis alone.[/quote] The the person sending those have consistently odd spelling/phrasing by any chance?

I found that ebay auto corrects your searches, even if there are hits for what you typed. There is a Magic the Gathering carrd called 'Sliver Queen', I have a few, figured I'll check the price, it would change my search to 'Silver Queen' and give me a few hundred results even though there were several listings with 'Sliver Queen'. That is pretty damn annoying.

[quote name='slave' post='1141249' date='Feb 25 2011, 02:18 PM']If only I could find an Aussie amp builder in Australia who could offer anything close to the Matamp in terms of quality and tone......and the weight of the Morgan. Hmmmm.....[/quote] [url="http://www.tymguitars.com.au/Lemon%20120.html"]These make the right claims.[/url]

All else being the same, more is more. But there are going to be other differences between your cabs there. What is the head? If it is a valve head, you need to crank more power into a 1x15 than a 2x15 (in general) so you'll be driving the head harder, and possibly be breaking up the speaker that you might like. Also, the 2x15 might be taller, and you hear a more accurate representation of your sound due to being closer on axis to the speaker, and not like your actual sound.

I've just been doing some work in hifi assembly and spent the entire time picking the designers brain about everything I could. The new solder isn't really causing problems for the mass manufacture because they have the process of using it nailed at this point, but longer term for flying components that can move, I think it gets or is more brittle so you get cracking later on in vibrating things. Although if gaming consoles are having trouble, maybe some places aren't doing it right, I'd guess budget squeezing. Apparently China/the far east (this is a bit of a generalisation/hearsay thing) have a different culture when it comes to bargaining and such, when you have them make a product for you, you give them a spec, and they give you a price, and it is up to honour that they give you an honest price right away, so if you then try and squeeze the price with negotiation, they take it as an implication they were dishonest with their original price, and your item will be made to spec appropriate to the lower price. I've not been inside any modern valve amps from the last ten years or so, so I dunno what they are like, but the Peavey stuff (5150, Maxx/t-Max/power amps) that I have been in are on sensible chunky pcb with full sized components that is fairly fixable. I have an exploded Randall as well that you can get at the components easily enough, I get the impression that the class D stuff is many tiny surface mount things though, that is apparently possible to work on, but I have no idea how, unless you have a map type thing to show you with what you are working.

[quote name='Low End Bee' post='1139977' date='Feb 24 2011, 02:08 PM']The 4 or 8 ohm switch?[/quote] Yeah.

There is an impedance switch on the terror bass though, I'm not sure what it is for, but maybe it is to get your 'full 500w' at various impedance.

[quote name='spinynorman' post='1138409' date='Feb 23 2011, 12:00 PM']Brass has gone up a lot, so you could sell the knobs.[/quote] I think this was Jon's plan when he bought the knobs off mine.

Old amps are generally a hell of a lot easier to fix than a new one, when you plan on using one for more than a year. Valves have been obsolete for a long time now, so things valve involved tend to go downhill, it is well known that valves are poorer but other components and construction methods are moving towards having more in common with current tech like computers. vs. And if not being tested puts you off, just get it tested, is much better to know you've had it tested, than believe someone else claiming it has been. Or don't and I'll buy all these nice amps.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Digitech-Bad-Monkey-Tube-Overdirve-Pedal-/170607520911?pt=UK_MusicalInstr_Amplifiers_RL&hash=item27b9002c8f"]Nearly grabbed it for me, but no need[/url].

[quote name='Duarte' post='1137162' date='Feb 22 2011, 02:58 PM']Cheers guys, looks like what I want. How much do they go for generally and where do I buy one?[/quote] [url="http://matamp.co.uk/"]Hit up Matamp direct,[/url] and ask, ideally by phone. Don't mention Orange. Best deal direct and you can discuss options.

Nothing about the amp or cab watts will have caused a shutdown. There probably is some sort of thermal protection. What is more likely is you are asking too much volume/bottom from a dinky cab. It is far more about the amount of air the cab can shift that the power levels, and very few 2x10s can shift enough air to be keeping up with a drummer with a chunky bassy sound.

Expect a 'trad' sound rather than high tech super flat response style.

If it is the same as other boss pedals, there is a little switch contact underneath the lid type bit, if it is being troublesome, open it up and push that manually, see if that switches it, might just be not quite tall enough, although I usually see that in really old worn pedals.

Anyone actually interested in my basses, the two BC Richs and the Rickenfaker are the only interesting ones, but I'm always more curious to see what people make of my horrible franks. There is a definite big theme to my other gear.

[quote name='Bassassin' post='1130934' date='Feb 17 2011, 01:04 PM']I'd be a whole lot more interested in this sort of thing if they'd done twin bass necks - can't imagine anything more pointless than a bass/guitar like this. Unless you're playing Peaches...[/quote] Check out BORIS/boris [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170605251651&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en"]This looks like a reasonable set of parts.[/url]

Sticking another speaker in the combo box might not help at all, the cab tuning could be all wrong for it, or if it is sealed, just totally choke the speaker. You can't have too high watts. Sensitivity is sort of an important spec, tells you how much volume you get from your amp watts.

[quote name='lettsguitars' post='1130412' date='Feb 16 2011, 10:57 PM']you MUST make sure the copper tape you buy states to have conductive adhesive. slug repellant tape WILL NOT DO! the adhesive doesn't conduct and you have to solder all the joins to create a reliable circuit.[/quote] Soldering the joints really isn't a big deal. And nor is checking them with a meter.

The watts don't mean much to anything. Better getting an extension cab in gear for sale, be cheaper, and work better unless you get serious with your cab making and follow designs.

Not related to bass or wood, but the solicitor I did work experience with is doing a Kon-Tiki style expedition, [url="http://news.bbc.co.uk/local/gloucestershire/hi/people_and_places/newsid_9385000/9385400.stm"]called An-Tiki.[/url]

People are after old valve amps, Traynor is a good and known make. Plus any 70s valve amp need to go to a tech even if it seems to be fine, just for safety's sake if reliability isn't your thing.