Mr. Foxen

[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=120884"]Already discussed (made fun of).[/url]

It's just flash, like when you got cheap versions of Airfix models, a bit of router work will sort that right out.

I reckon filing off the corners of the ball ends will be easier.

I'd play one because it has a bunch of features I like, but I'm pretty far off Billy Sheehan in about every way. They are the sort of features that don't come together on any other basses.

Didn't think sealed maple necks shrunk. I've fed very dry rosewood boards with loads of oil and sorted sharp fret ends.

[quote name='KevB' post='1109158' date='Jan 31 2011, 10:31 AM']They still look like something someone's been knocking together in a garage on Sunday afternoons.[/quote] I think that is a bunch of the point, since it is based on exactly that.

It's just electrical tape, it had been weirdly refinished. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=101055&st=0"]full story here.[/url] Edit: I just reread what I orignally wrote about them, and I didn't even say it was an issue, just a bargaining point, I'd be fully expecting the owner to not have noticed it happening.

My reinforced bridges ain't for sale yet, but the other problem is the scratchplates breaking, and I still have some of the steel ones to go.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Tech-21-Sansamp-PSA-1-/170597452244?pt=UK_MusicalInstr_Amplifiers_RL&hash=item27b86689d4"]£250 BIN.[/url] totally recall someone asking after one but can't find the thread, so thought I'd give a heads up.

[quote name='bumnote' post='1107253' date='Jan 29 2011, 02:54 PM']Thanks Phil, I will give that a go Ive previously used that stuff you use on the plastic trims on cars but its full of silicone, and mikes everything really slippery[/quote] Use WD40 like furniture polish, not furniture polish.

[quote name='Johnston' post='1107036' date='Jan 29 2011, 10:36 AM']I used Put my full weight on a scarf joint and it never budged and considering my poor skiils it must be good gear.[/quote] This is what luthiers reccomend to me. I think it doesn't have the tendency to creep over time.

[quote name='theosd' post='1106795' date='Jan 28 2011, 10:29 PM']White or blue, white or blue, WHITE OR BLUE!?!?!?!? (help?)[/quote] At that price, both. You can flip one at a profit when they sell out and people are clamouring for them. If I wans't about to move, and had more liquid cash, I'd be doing this.

Gonna be making new ridge saddles once some workshop time frees up. If someone has an old set they could send me, would make life easier/faster, I'm basing them from a Jap bridge, so might need a fettling to fit a genuine bridge.

[quote name='s1ater' post='1106355' date='Jan 28 2011, 04:13 PM']I went in there today to buy that one... You got there first ended up with the gold les paul copy in the window instead [/quote] Let me know if you realise you shouldn't have done that.

Got temptation for the gold top. Hassling a mate to get one. Anyone know of any cream humbcker sized p90s, aside from the kents, pair of those would cost more than the guitar.

It should make no odds, because the box should vibrate or anything that will interact with the floor, and it remains acoustically the same save for a few inches height, as in still radiating into half space due to the floor. Plus, no reason it needs to be sat on the casters while you are playing, put them on the side.

[quote name='simon1964' post='1105315' date='Jan 27 2011, 05:43 PM']Agree with your comments on the bridge, but I'm not sure what you mean by the neck collapsing into the pocket. Rics are through neck, so I don't follow?[/quote] As said, it is the neck pickup route, the thin body and the placing of the route don't give much strength there. I though that the neck pickup move in the 70s was due to this, giving some more wood about there, but now I've opened a current one, the route is in the same place, and just the scratchplate hole is moved. I don't know why.

Since these are just lows, totally happy on their sides? I'm picturing a 2x15 type box, on its side, 4x12 guitar cab on top, Matamp slave powering it, drivey guitar amp for the top. I want the directional top so I can control feedback by moving about. Can you make them in green?

I've had a couple Ricks come through my hands for work recent;y. If you are looking second hand, try and slide a piece of paper under the back of the bridge, if it goes under, ask them to knock off the price of a new bridge. And go for a newer one I'd say, the build quality has improved, some of the old ones are pretty shonky, and have issues with the neck collapsing into the pocket (check for cracks around the join).

[quote name='dincz' post='1104440' date='Jan 26 2011, 09:51 PM']Well yeah but the opposite in fact - inductance[/quote] Explain more. As far as I know the inducatance is the thing that generates a voltage that makes a pickup work. Unfortunately they aren't a perfect inductor, so they also have a capacitance (as a component of impedance) which is what attenuates high frequencies. But electronics understanding is a work in progress for me.

Probably worth noting that class D and switch mode power supplies aren't necessarily 'digital', and 'being made with pcbs and surface mount components' is just construction and not to do with amplifier class. You could handwire a solid state amp, but it is even more effort than having to pick up a box with transformers in it. My solid state amp is handwired and it is lovely, and I should be able to solder bits in as necessary. Class D amps just suffer from the age in which the came into use, rather than an actual issue with the technology.

Judging a piece of equipment by the brand on it works much better than judging it by a slightly questionable use of specification.