Mr. Foxen

[quote name='4-string-thing' post='1062846' date='Dec 18 2010, 07:45 PM']I may still do this when funds allow! I guess it would be cheaper than a Barefaced cab....[/quote] Pound for pound, you get more for your money.

Your tone is determined by the way you play. There is note choices and timing, but would you recognise a dude from their stuff being played on a keyboard? I once read that tone is 85% fingers 10% bass and 5% rig, and it has stood up pretty well. Of course, volume is 100% rig, and that is the important bit for me.

you can recognise musicians by their signature tones. So it makes sense to seek your own. You should have enough control over your gear to get there in adverse conditions. Low beams probably help, break up the ceiling.

A rig that can cope is probably the most important thing.

Something burnt, probably the inside of a fuse, that won't smell, but will light up real good. Not only must you replace the fuse, but figure why it went in the firstplace.

[quote name='Big Mick' post='1057294' date='Dec 13 2010, 01:52 PM']Also, Bill uses PL construction adhesive, this isn't readily available in the UK and I ended up using some of this.[/quote] You can get the expandy foaming wood glue from Screwfix. My Dad swears by it.

I have a micro POG going within budget, it is a digital polyphonic job, so not so comparable to the ones mentioned, it is basically a tracking synth, it does track really well, but your rig isn't gonna cope so well with the really low stuff.

Bet the difference between plugging between the cabs and both straight from the amp is that one of the jacks is wired out of phase/polarity.

Problem with feeding a 4x10 and a 2x10 with the same impedance from the same amp is you are stuck with the upper limit of the 2x10, they'll both get the same power, but the 2x10 will only deal with half, and the 4x10 will be louder, potentiall drowning out the sounds of the 2x10 complaining. Better off with a 16 ohm 2x10 so each speaker gets the same.

It is coming round tomorrow, gonna be a build diary I reckon, even though it is a scratchplate change, wanna do a bit of side by side with my faker.

With this guy, I don't think looking like a hippy will be an issue.

[quote name='BigRedX' post='1060676' date='Dec 16 2010, 03:47 PM']BTW what does the Rick-O-Sound socket actually do? Is is simply a way of routing the neck and bridge pickups to separate amplifiers (in which case it should be an easy enough mod to apply to any Rickenfaker) or is there more involved?[/quote] It is a means of separating the bridge and neck pickups, it is a funny switching jack, and there is also fun with the bass cut capacitor on the bridge pickup. If you are set on using stereo, it is easy enough to wire a stereo socket, should be able to make it switchable too. I wired mine straight stereo because I felt no need to complicate things in there, the switching jack looked like a prone to failure thing.

Dude I know has a totally trashed Rickenbacker, and had trouble with smashing the scratchplate, so went for a steel one, but shiny steel wouldn't look right on his knackered bass, had a bit of playing about with fire, and got this:

Made me think of this, varitone inna box:

[quote name='0175westwood29' post='1060047' date='Dec 15 2010, 09:08 PM']what is the deal with phase issues? what will it do to the sound? andy[/quote] Scoop a chunk out of your frequency response somewhere, depending on the degree it is out of phase.

[quote name='Soloshchenko' post='1059800' date='Dec 15 2010, 05:57 PM']After some tool had won it they then messaged him saying "I live 300 miles away so can't pick up. Can you post it?"[/quote] It is always worth messaging in advance and asking if they'll post (basses with the neck off is a classic, makes it much less hassle to pack). What is annoying me is people asking 'how much to post to some foreign place' in the last few hours of the auction. And people paying for UK post and expecting me to post to Europe.

You probably don't need the OT going that low, not much useful content down there once the valves are driving. Best thing is to have a preamp level out wound into the OT so you can run driven power valve into an external amp. I reckon if you have enough enthusiasm for the idea, you can have [url="http://www.chambonino.com"]John Chambers[/url] wind a suitable tranny for ya, might cost though.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rickenbacker-4001-stereo-bass-copy-C-M-I-/160519523505?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item255fb58cb1"]Bolt neck CMI with 'R-bomb'.[/url]

[quote name='Bassassin' post='1058316' date='Dec 14 2010, 11:00 AM']I think my favourite weirdo finish might be the radioactive green & yellow "SnotGlo" Matsumoku bolt-necks. I want one of those.[/quote] I think Warmoth call that 'dragonburst', on curly maple, it does look kind of like underneath a reptile.

If you leave it in the same room, just let it warm up with the room when you are back. The risky bits are taking it from a cold place to a warm moist place, and condensation forming on it, then you have water and electric. Avoid that by giving it time to acclimatise. The other is taking a hot tube amp into a cold wind, like a rapid clear out from a gig, when a cold blast of wind can shatter your valves through thermal shock.

Massive valve bass heads are pretty unpopular, it is a bad time of year to be selling, and these aren't that well known, espeically since people afte rbig valve bass heads generally want simple, and this is super complicated. All in all, probably a dissapointing sale on ebay. I would quite like one though. Wanna trade for summat?