Mr. Foxen

[quote name='The Bass Doc' post='1046499' date='Dec 3 2010, 04:15 PM']Wiki notes the similarity, but no.[/quote] Just been looking more, it isn't what we'd call a poplar (with all the branches pointing up), but some unrelated tree that Americans call a poplar or tulip poplar, even though it is neither a tulip or a poplar. There are guitars made of poplar apparently, but none made of tulips. [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liriodendron"]American one[/url] [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poplar"]Rest of the world.[/url]

Tulipwood is poplar isn't it?

Isn't a bump at 100hz 'vintage tone'?

[quote name='robocorpse' post='1045507' date='Dec 2 2010, 07:28 PM']Be careful with the Maplin soldering stations. I work in the returns field, and there are HUNDREDS of these coming back every month with faults.[/quote] I picked up one very cheap, and it just had a blown fuse, been fine since. Fuses have scored me so much free and cheap stuff.

[quote name='[email protected]' post='1045431' date='Dec 2 2010, 06:21 PM']OK Thanks for that makes sense for the F# and possibly the B to be tapered then.[/quote] Dunno if Newtone would charge less for just two, but I got the set tapered, so they were all the same size at the bridge.

That is why playing miserable music is best.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='1045636' date='Dec 2 2010, 08:54 PM']11'000+ Bass Chat Members maybe we could commision a run of special BC Basses? Im sure we could all agree on what pickups,Bridges,String gauge,Nut width,Neck profile,Body shape,Active/passive,Ammount of strings and colour it should be!!! [/quote] I think that would end up with some hideous over-enthusiasm spawned mongrel.

[quote name='Bassassin' post='1045443' date='Dec 2 2010, 06:33 PM']The vast majority of small brand names are importers' own - they simply order a batch of guitars from a factory, or through an exporter, specify models & colours, and have their own brand names put on the instruments. You've probably seen the rather sexy Retrovibe & Probass models a few BCers have been getting into - the guy who sells these appears to order small batches of instruments built to his spec and with his brand on - I have every intention of buying one of his red Rick copies - after all, when they first appeared in black or white, I did say that if there was red with black binding version, I'd have one. And lo & behold... I have been seriously thinking about experimenting with doing something similar myself, if I could verify there was a market, and if I could scrape together the capital. Anyone fancy a modernised Maton Ibis clone? Jon.[/quote] Why not get just bodies and 'assemble' them in the UK. To customer spec. Custom built in the UK that way.

I used the bottom 4 of that gauge from Newtone for ADGC tuning, it was just about acceptably tension wise. The tapered core means they fit into your bridge, and the thickness doesn't dampen the flex as much. It probably helps the intonation too as the string can be straight over the saddle rather than tending to have a hump because it is so stiff.

Far Eastern factories that make basses to contract don't generally care what name is stuck on them. No basses come branded Matsumoko, but plenty of names are on basses made by them. It is totally normal practice.

Quite a lot more to it than that. For a start, the port will be much too small, and will severely limit the speaker output before it starts chuffing from the airspeed in it. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?act=Search&CODE=show&searchid=9f807d9959ef67c2d70af51d522cc1d9&search_in=posts&result_type=topics&highlite=%2Bwinisd"]All of these threads contain something relevant.[/url] Basically, the box probably doesn't suit the blue driver that well, it will probably suit a neo even less, so it is a kind of waste of money, unless you happen to have one, in which case, give it a try, and it there is a round port, roll up a tube from something and try making the port longer to mess with the tuning, telescopic style.

Bought a Rick bridge, and damn, it fits my faker fine. Cheers.

Series or paralell wiring make a fair bit of odds to those Model 1s. Might be good to make that switchable, even if you leave the switch in the cavity.

Definitely go for the 40-50w, get a thermostatically controlled one if you are that fussed. Nothing much in guitars is heat sensitive, and pot casings and other heavy things need to heat in them. A solder station type one will come with a stand and sponge, so factor the cost saving on those in and it might not me more expensive for a more flexible tool.

[quote name='funky_numba' post='1043238' date='Dec 1 2010, 01:50 AM']What do you mean by setup, Mr Foxen?[/quote] I managed to mean both my rig, and the setup of the bass. Loads of online tutorials for doing it, and download AP tuner, it is dead good for doing that.

[quote name='funky_numba' post='1043231' date='Dec 1 2010, 01:40 AM']I normally play thru my pc soundcard however, I have a second hand TEC20B Starfire bass practice amp which I bought with the bass. It has a few pots .. 1 low, 2 mids and 1 high (i think) but they seem to make little if any difference to the sound. I wonder if the bass amp is gubbed!!! My bass still sounds 'muddy' through that amp. What's your setup?[/quote] My setup isn't for slap. My Aguilar does have a tweeter I keep turned off, so it probably could, but most of my 'highs' come from a guitar rig I run in addition. Appropriate setup may make a lot of difference.

Amp and cab, what is it. You might need a tweeter.

Dunno what the input options on that amp are like, but might be easier just getting a couple of preamps and a power amp, it is what I do.

[quote name='Lfalex v1.1' post='1041722' date='Nov 29 2010, 10:17 PM']Someone out there [i]must[/i] have a sixer with 3x split "P" pick-ups in.[/quote]

Better off running them with solid state power, all the nice harmonics that give valve amp tone will be lost along with anything other than lows.

[quote name='lemmywinks' post='1042066' date='Nov 30 2010, 10:36 AM']Are you sure? I'm pretty sure mine was standard, however you have to use extra long scale strings if you're stringing it through-body so a lot of people think they're longer[/quote] Googling shows where I got the reference to 36", but catalogues say 34 1/2" or 34 3/8", so a bit longer than Fender.