Mr. Foxen

[quote name='lemmywinks' post='1042066' date='Nov 30 2010, 10:36 AM']Are you sure? I'm pretty sure mine was standard, however you have to use extra long scale strings if you're stringing it through-body so a lot of people think they're longer[/quote] Googling shows where I got the reference to 36", but catalogues say 34 1/2" or 34 3/8", so a bit longer than Fender.

[quote name='gafbass02' post='1041427' date='Nov 29 2010, 05:37 PM']Hmm some interesting ideas, I might try smoothing the edges with sandpaper maybe, thing is it's still spreading and even looking at it funny makes it drop off more lol. I like the worn thing but I also rather like the sonic blue! Il stick some more pics of the rest of the carnage on the finish up later if I can capture it with my phonecam[/quote] Sealing the edges should stop it going further. It is probably sweat/moisture being drawn under the edge and causing more seperation.

I'd get some of the runny superglue and catalyst stuff and seal all the edges and polish it smooth again. Or get a bound rickenbacker and the razor edge will teach you not to rest your arm on your bass.

[quote name='Ghost_Bass' post='1041262' date='Nov 29 2010, 03:21 PM']If you're writting this because of my post then you didn't understand me. What i tried to say is that (if you don't touch the head settings or volume) when you connect one single cab it'll get a certain amount of signal (let's call it S). When you connect another cab, lowering the impedance, the signal from the amp will be bigger than "S" like BFM explained but this signal equaly divided to both cabs will be less than "S" in each cab. But adding to this we have the floor coupling fenomena happening, the higher a cab is more coupling you have. So [b]my theory[/b] (feel free to correct me on this, í'm here to learn ) is: [u]With two identical cabs, stacked, with the same setting on the amp (this includes the volume knob being untouched) we have[/u]: - Two cabs running at the same time will have more volume than each of them soloed; - The bottom cab running solo will have more than half of the the volume of two cabs; - The top cab running solo will have less than half of the the volume of two cabs; My main variable is floor coupling. If anybody with knowledge could do the math with a simple example to try and find if i'm very far from the truth i'll appreciate. Cheers[/quote] Top one is closer to ear height for the mids/highs. Acoustic coupling will mostly affect lows, and lows are affected by loads of other room effects. Since most of the 'sound' is in the mids, that would be a more signifcant factor to perception.

Is the 2x10 the size requirement? How loud does it need to be? If you are after the original Ampeg 8x10 sound (the one loaded with guitar drivers) and don't mind it being very quiet (there was a reason why it was 8x10) then you could just make a plain box to the measurements of one of the compartments in them and load it with either Jensen MOD10s or the Eminence drivers that are modern equivalent to the old 8x10 drivers (32ohm among other things) and that will be a soundalike. 'Deep' and 'vintage' don't really go together so well, vintage is all about midbass and no deep bass at all. Barefaced stuff tends toward uncoloured, wheras the 8x10 is very coloured. Basically, why a 2x10? Because that is pretty severely limiting. I did email alex about getting a Vintage (now discontinued) and he replied mentioning a 8x10 functional equivalent is in the works, but it will be bigger than a 2x10.

[quote name='51m0n' post='1041217' date='Nov 29 2010, 02:41 PM']No way can you get more power from a single amp running into a single cab than same amp running into two of the same cab, impedance just doesnt work like that chaps![/quote] Can if the amp outputs are series. Won't lose much volume though, since the sensitivity will compensate. Ashdowns are generally parallel, but knowing the shonky repairs that practice space rigs have, or possibly cunningness knowing people borrowing gear can be d!cks about impedance, not impossible it was wired series. If you were in a dinky practice room, could just me all the room effects messing with ya. I've taken to leaning against the wall to check how much low is coming from my rig, because quite a lot of a small room can be pretty lacking

Dying filter caps did that to my Carlsbro, replacing them sorted it, fair bit older than that though.

[quote name='Moos3h' post='1039449' date='Nov 28 2010, 12:11 AM']Inspired by an ebay trawl, I am staggered to see the price that Laney AOR / PRO TUBE guitar heads are fetching these days (or at least the prices that people are asking!)[/quote] This is some of the reason for that: I think I've done alright in not passing on the wrong stuff, some pedals I've had have gone a bit nuts.

If you stick the blend in the middle and/or turn down the bass and treble, and volume up, that will compensate for the scoop.

The BDDI has a DI out and the VT doesn't. The VT does much more drivey options also. I use the VT, but I have a paradriver on the way (sat at the PO depot actually).

[quote name='dood' post='1039492' date='Nov 28 2010, 01:12 AM']If you can find one, the Rat Juggernaut was a version of the Rat with a dry mix for bass players - if you like that kinda distortion.[/quote] I had one and it totally sucked and didn't really sound like the good parts of a Rat + blend. Did end up using the FX loop as my first clean blend though. I set up my dual rig at practice on Friday (cause was jamming with a new guitarist who brought his own rig! Shame he couldn't play anything useful) and it was lovely, even the drummer noticed how nice the definition was in adition to gut rumbling lows.

Stick some of those piezo elements under the bridge and knock up a buffer, so it gets noisin.

Big clear plastic bag over it all will sort the beer issue.

[quote name='Big Mick' post='1007212' date='Oct 31 2010, 12:05 PM']From last night. Mesa Boogie 180 amp head and 2x15 cab. Music Man Big Al 4 string with Stingray pickup. Cheers, Mick. [/quote] [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mesa-Boogie-Bass-Amplifier-D180-road-ready-2-x-15-cab-/230556181246?pt=UK_MusicalInstr_Amplifiers_RL&hash=item35ae3822fe"]Coincidence, or this rig on ebay?[/url]

The other colour is getting some votes, be good to know what other colours you have in mind. The local pwder coating place does various things, and I'd have to add them to a batch of a colour to keep costs down. I've seen yellow, when they do the speed camera boxes, and red.

You ever get that thing where you phone your significant other whilst drunk?

Thing is, plenty of people here have (or at least really should) accept that your ideal gear is a transient concept and you aren't ever going to stop GASing, so when you buy, you know its going to move on, sooner or later. Fairly clear from my feedback thread that I buy things because they are cheap and I am curious to see what they do, or someone else is, the House of Bass is no stranger to a communal pedal try out session. When I do move them on, I'm pretty much always going to be trying to fund the next piece of gear, or my rent/bills/council tax that I have neglected in favour of buying gear, so am going to be aiming for as much as I can get.

Plenty of you have probably seent my [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=101055"]Rickenfaker restoration thread[/url], with the humourously destroyed bridge. As part of the restoration, I straightened out that bridge and gave it to an engineer to have a look at, and 'correct' whilst retaining the style. Bascically, the hollows in the weakest parts were filled and other parts thickened, and then cast in a tougher alloy. I've had a batch of these done and am having them machined currently. Next step is finishing, and I'll need to lose the extras to hopefully cover the costs of the one to go on my bass (I have sourced an as original replacement, but I prefer to not worry about in bananaing on me, and have my own custom parts). Would people be interested in colours/finishes other than chrome, they are currently grey alloy castings, currently viable options are chrome, or powder coating, probably in satin or gloss black. Would enough peope fancy them in black to make it worthwhile, or do I play it safe in chrome? Or other suggestions? On a sort of related, would anyone buy BAII style bridges, possibly machined from solid billets of aluminium, brass, steel or titanium? Could look pretty industrial, and are within the capabilities of the workshop I'm borrowing. Not done a poll before, and the preview doesn't really help.

In. Cheers.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Iwama-bass-guitar-/170571979053?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item27b6e1d92d"]Iwama[/url] Just not a name I've seen often, doesn't look great.

[quote name='Johnston' post='1037863' date='Nov 26 2010, 03:18 PM']The only time I would get a bad taste was if a buyer gave the going to a good home to be loved and cherished only speech, for it to be on sale again for a profit a few days later. Or if someone is for all intensive purposes trading with the intention of making money but not letting on.[/quote] I've had that, the 'I am a gigging bassist who will use your vintage collectible amp'. Cool, I want it used, and as the sort of chap who keeps an eye on such things, I will definitely notice if it appears on ebay in a couple of days. It happens, I dealt with it, just I ask collector prices for vintage gear now.

D'addario do really heavy steels, dunno about the length though. If all else fails, Newtone can custom make them, didn't work out loads more than nce sets of strings, but was coupla years back.

[quote name='fryer' post='1038646' date='Nov 27 2010, 11:00 AM']Anyone tried a Bugera Nuke ? So cheap for a, presumaby around 2,000 w amp.[/quote] Loads of better options about, the power rating is peak or something, so it is 4x what everyone else uses.

Thought this was referring to the weight.