Mr. Foxen

[quote name='Johnston' post='1037876' date='Nov 26 2010, 03:27 PM']Is the New morgan still wooden framed??? i thought they went All Aluminium with the Aero 8 I do laugh at those who think the wooden frame is the chassis and think all the suspension and brakes are bolted to a lump of Ash [/quote] Yeah, laminated ash. My Dad, being the main manufacturer of aftermarket Morgan chassis, got really angry with a guy that insisted his car had a wooden chassis. The RD has a 36" scale, that makes playing a bit harder whatever the manufacturer (although a top horn would probably help.

[quote name='retroman' post='1037415' date='Nov 26 2010, 09:13 AM']One for Mr Foxen this one [/quote] Kinda grown out of all this fastness now. But in the day: E. Limination Also, how is this for some bass playing: But the real stuff is:

[quote name='flyfisher' post='1037746' date='Nov 26 2010, 01:27 PM']Of course, we can't be sure that Morgan wouldn't have become the next BMW if they had followed the guru's advice ( ), but we do know that they have survived against all the dire predictions from the 'experts'.[/quote] The next Morgan they made has a BMW engine, and upset some BMW engineers with the awesome crash properties of its revolutionary body frame material (wood). Edit, I think I should also mention that someone custom ordered one with a yellow bonnet and red wings, then never paid in full, leaving them with Noddy's car sat in the showroom until they gave in and had it resprayed.

Those sort of sounds should be doable with a Sansamp, either BDDI or VT. I can't imagine the 220 would be upset with a sansamp into it.

Is it particularly bass cabs that you think you need to progress? My first advice would definitely be to concentrate on theory,technique, and reading, before going after gear, and thus posting in the theory and technique section might be more productive for you. Really, forget about gear except to put some money aside, until you are looking at a band sort of position.

The acoustic 220 has a lot of style, and probably louder than its 'watt' rating might suggest, but probably not going to have the flex of modern gear. You will get old dudes come and talk at you about it though, and they can be very useful to talk to.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='41264' date='Aug 4 2007, 01:05 PM']The Johnson basses, the P and J copies at lest, are pretty reasonable, solid wood bodies too, I got one to use as a base for various mods, it was ok to start with, became pretty good with all hardware replaced.[/quote] Looking at my early posts, I had a look to see if the chap who came by once to chat bass as he'd just started still posts, and he totally posted loads of bass trades, this place got him real good.

Best thing to do if you don't like people flipping stuff on BC for profit is to leave the price in your sold thread, and just mark the title as sold. That way it is easy to gauge the going rate on BC for particular items.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MARSHALL-GUVNOR-MARK-1-/230555228926?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&hash=item35ae299afe"]Here, undercutting the one I sold on here, but not enough to be worth me flipping it.[/url]

Wow, that is some upper arm muscle definition. Must have one of these:

Keep an eye on ebay, someone might have bought a load and is selling the rest. Alternatively, buy a load, and ebay the rest.

Variation on Warwickhunt's theme: Return your bass to stock before listing, and list upgrades separately. Actually, the discarded crappy pickups from my cheapies have all fetched ok sums on ebay.

[quote name='PaulWarning' post='1036367' date='Nov 25 2010, 02:12 PM']not eveyone will agree with this but start your price at the minimum you're prepared to except, saves tears later, reserve prices just put people off because they don't know what the reserve is.[/quote] The morally ok variation of shilling is ask about your mates for offers on something, even if they are a lowball, list it at 99p and invite that person to bid, gives you a free starting price of that, and if the market judges it high, at least it went to a mate.

[quote name='algmusic' post='1036363' date='Nov 25 2010, 02:07 PM']why compromise the sound at the start of the chain?.. why compromise it ever? Bass and effects are tricky enough as it is trying to get the mix of low end and effects[/quote] Buffering at the start of the fx chain is beneficial to tone, true bypass compromises it by effectively changing the length of you signal path and impedance loading on your pickups whenever you switch, whereas buffering the start of the chain maintains its integrity by providing a consistent loading on your pickups, assuming you are passive.

I just detuned my Prosteels 55-110 to C, is a bit slack but workable, I generally play them in standard.

Remember your time and effort in P&P. Try selling things here first, and don't forget you pay a final value fee as well as a listing one.

[quote name='EskimoBassist' post='1033712' date='Nov 23 2010, 11:34 AM']+1 to the above. The Korg Pitchblack is another popular design in a similar price bracket, mostly thanks to its' true bypass.[/quote] Hmm, having true bypass puts me off, a decent buffer at the start of your chain is far preferable.

[quote name='umph' post='1036142' date='Nov 25 2010, 11:52 AM']woah 500 pounds, do people know these are made outta ply and are terrible?[/quote] But good enough for Peter Hook to bin and buy a Yamaha.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Shine-Rickenbacker-4001-Tribute-Bass-Guitar-/360322677113?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item53e4e7b979"]New Shine, spensive.[/url]

[quote name='stevie' post='1035675' date='Nov 24 2010, 10:02 PM']Have you spoken to him lately, Bill? How is the old guy? [/quote] What we need here is a portmanteau of 'science' and 'séance'.

[url="http://www.myspace.com/lydiakaboesj"]This is Lydia, who does [/url] this: That the one you are thinking of? From a different country to the other lady that is playing for Prince. Edit: Prince's new bass player is actually a Japanese man in a dress. Edit 2: And his drummer is at the wrong gig.

What you actually need to protect your speakers is a correctly set limiter, I think it is a voltage limiter, but it is something that comes up in PA, you'd also need to know the appropriate point to set it to, because it isn't the 200w thermal limit that is the limiting factor on where your speakers break.

[quote name='MoonBassAlpha' post='1035713' date='Nov 24 2010, 10:39 PM']I know we're all used to it as it is so familiar, but the scratch plate on Rics really irks me - It's ugly utilitarian shape and cheap (looking) plastic. The knobs they use are amongst my least favourite too. I think the rest of it looks super cool though, but I've never played one. People get nice sounds out of them too.[/quote] It is also a major weak point, they break round the pickup and the control cavity. I'm having some made out of steel, should fix that issue.

[quote name='simon1964' post='1035385' date='Nov 24 2010, 06:05 PM']But as I said several posts ago, I'm not defending Rics as a design. I love them, but I readily accept the bridge, pickups, and lack of countours are as old fashioned and flawed as a Morgan Roadster.[/quote] Do you say that because you know Dad makes parts for Morgans? I think the updated Morgan is doing ok though.