Mr. Foxen

10p/Matamp watt, get money's worth per lb too.

Both volumes on full drops the output compared to favouring one pickup because the pickups are out of phase in the mids, its pretty standard with jazz basses, treat it as three tone knobs.

The 10-15db boost those have can distort most things.

About that far. Not a critical thing to be exact.

People are always after these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tech-21-vt-bass-pedal-/141010270046?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&hash=item20d4ddf75e

[quote name='JamesBass' timestamp='1372845834' post='2130527'] If taken care of Valves can last a long time! [/quote] Ha, even if treated brutally, good ones can last: From a 70s amp (guess late 70s), all still tested good, and sold for enough to pay for the amp in that state. If your mate's amp was the Laney AOR30, I just had one in, will be on the block after an MOT, if he's after a backup.

At a guess, the VT will be more consistent at different volumes, as it models the power section driving too. And if you actually drive the power stage, can just cut some drive on VT, but I've never found a whole series of small drives adds up to a bad lots of drive sound.

Trying stuff on gigs is the only way. Some sort of clue how loud a band, what sort of PA, what sort of venues would also be fairly helpful.

'loud enough' is a bit 'as long as a piece of string'. Depends on the 6x10, might be made to have lots of watts, and nothing else, not uncommon, Basson cabs were based on the principle.

[quote name='Patchbass' timestamp='1372793321' post='2130144'] Nice and yes forgot about the weight difference between the 100 and 300 hmm it doesn't state the sensitivity of the abm 610 but the 410 is 94db 1w@1m so maybe a bit lower compared to the abm 410 but that's a lower wattage does that make a difference? Advice someone?! [/quote] Wattage still doesn't mean anything on cabs. Even less if anything. So 4 of those 4x10s = 1 Compact or SVt8x10. Sounds a bit far really.

[quote name='Patchbass' timestamp='1372786590' post='2130005'] hmm thanks for the replies guys maybe it's better to spend the extra and just get the ctm 300 though it cost's more to maintain with the extra valves [/quote] That thing where you need to change valves every couple of years is a myth/lie.

you need to fill out a form and mark it up with a code on the way out, and corresponding one on the way back. Call the revenue and get it all right.

[quote name='Patchbass' timestamp='1372784439' post='2129963'] ok the 610 is sealed and what's an ideal sensitivity to look for? [/quote] Higher is better. but too high is lies. If something claims to be 6db more sensitive than everything else of say general form, then it probably isn't true, Eden are big on that. The SVT 8x10 at 100db is a good benchmark. Barefaced Compact is also 100db, ported vs seals is kind of a big deal.

I totally assumed that was a crude photoshop job when it came up on my feed, but the other pics look right.

VT is supposed to ahve hte juice to run as a preamp. Not so sure about the East.

Is the ABM6x10 sealed? Sealed means low efficiency too. I dunno what drivers they use either. Thing to check is sensitivity ratings.

I quite like it when Ashdowns come in for fixing, easy, and when I phone Ashdown they are helpful with the parts if they can still get them.

In short watts are not useful at all in telling how loud something will be. 100w valve heads are enough for giging, but you might need more cab that one 4x10. I'd use the Barefaced Super 15/Vintage (because they are what I use) but bigger heavier 2x15s will do similar volume favours. With 100w you can crank it into power valve growl territory and cover a lot of sonic area, ideal for single guitar bands.

[quote name='4000' timestamp='1372460406' post='2126161'] He also played lots of real ones, which you always seem to conveniently forget. [/quote] not so, I'm fully aware most discerning players have to play lots of them before finding one worth sticking with.

[quote name='Bobo_Grimmer' timestamp='1372431244' post='2125709'] Thanks for the advice guys. i had the valve tested and it is duff. Next thing is to find a replacement. Thing is i guess valves are in matched pairs. Now the new svt cl has two bias controls. one for the left hand set and one for the right hand set. now if they are in pairs how does that work? Does that mean i need to find out how they are paired and replace the pair or do i need to replace the three on the left? Can you get matched sets of three? I'm confused as to how this works... [/quote] You replace the three controlled by one bias control with matched ones, the control means you have control of the balance between them and their opposites on the other half, one half push, one half pull as it were. The matching is so the three sharing a control match each other rather than matching their opposites.

Got a couple of 100s sat here if you wanna do another project.

There is no perfection on a fretted bass though, you get into temperament then, the imperfections are averaged out so they matter minimally.

KT88 are similar but more rugged, although many modern KT88 are 6550 in a different shaped bottle, or even just the same. I've not had that much to do with 6550, but Shuguang power valves have done well in a cheap and good sort of way.

I don't see many heater failures, but I don't really deal with that sort of valve amp/valves. Ampeg use pretty low bidder stuff, so I wouldn't have high hopes of the valves lasting.

replace 3 if you want it all properly matched. You can get away with not doing so most likely. If its off though, might contribute for faster death of other valves. I tend to favour replace all with valves I get at trade price, so I can test and sell the used good ones whilst they are still good, and not lose too much money that way.