Mr. Foxen
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Everything posted by Mr. Foxen
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Start with what you want it to look like. Main thing is the quality of the finish on the wood (sanding basically) is what determines the quality of the end finish. Oil is the easiest, start with a smooth sanding, and a danish oil finish goes on easy, might not be done by Christmas though.
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Anyone know of any good guides or pointers to how to lay out the wires in valve amps to minimise hum and suchlike, I have one that has had a few tinkerings with inside, and it is pretty scruffy, and noisy, sure matter can be improved with judicious replacing and re-routing of wires.
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The blue squier telebass thing has vintage type thin frets, I found that noteable when I had a go on one. You could grind down and dress all the frets to achieve lower, depends how inclined your are to take ages over something.
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Fairly sure this already happens.
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Whilst this is funny, it is a bit too distracting to make silly noise with when I'm supposed to be making tunes. Boxed, but the push button tips on the side fired off really fast, otherwise, still with cellophane on and stuff. £90, would rather not post, but can, is a brick. Kind of rare and discontinued.
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Levelling is when they do over it with a straight thing with abrasive properties, so they are all the same height, but the high ones end up with flat tops, dressing is when they make all the tops round again. Not sure about stoning but it seems to be applied to a half-arsed version of skimming the tops off the frets and minimal finishing to get rid of dings and suchlike, might just be a local that does that not very well though. [url="http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/Frets/D35Refret/D35refret6.html"]Here is a run through of fret levelling and dressing.[/url]
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Thing is, speaker watts and amp watts aren't related in the way you think. You can have a speaker farting out at a much lower power than its thermal rating (that's what 'watts' on a speaker is, the point where the voice coil melts or deforms enough to stop working), and a farting out speaker it heading toward damage, but the damage is mechanical, not thermal, and that power rating would be dependent on frequency, so not one to quote (plus it is around a third of the thermal rating, so wouldn't look very good). So basically, you can blow your speakers with an amp about one third of the rating of them, if you boost up the wrong frequency, or ignore the fact it is farting out without turning down.
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Is there a basschat.europe/africa/australasia ?
Mr. Foxen replied to 4 candles's topic in General Discussion
I tink the very busy trade section we have here is more by luck than judgment. Because the of the same rule that gave ebay the monopoly, the place where most people trade is the best place to trade. It is also true to an extent that it benefits everyone to increase trade, thus the best way of finding other such places is keep an ear to the ground, and the more popular ones will become apparent. -
[quote name='leschirons' post='1013346' date='Nov 5 2010, 02:23 PM']He also points out that the neck is straight as if that's some sort of bonus you're getting for $13,000[/quote] The vintage Fender market says high price is no guarantee of a straight neck.
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What are you listening to right now?
Mr. Foxen replied to Sarah5string's topic in General Discussion
I'm listening to Anaal Nakrath, because I saw a publicity shot, and realised that the usually mild mannered Bassbod appears to be doing the vocals. -
You can use one fine with your LH500, just as you can use one of your current cabs happily with it, because the LH500 comes equipped with a volume control.
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You can probably make a better cab using the Black Widow driver, but it won't be the cabs you have mentioned, they are built round other drivers with very different properties. Have a look in the cab and see if the driver identifies itself, then google the name and 'Thiele-small', see if someone has taken measurements. Then its all WinISD-Fu.
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[quote name='4 Strings' post='1012301' date='Nov 4 2010, 05:06 PM'][i] 18" Hartke High Powered Driver with Long Excursion 3" coil.[/quote] See, this is the problem with marketing specs, not the ones labelled 'Thiele-Small' specs, that is a 3" diameter voice coil, arbitrarily labeled as 'long excursion', which is probably 4mm before distortion, might be a fair bit more with distortion though. Getting close to 10mm excursion without significant distortion is something a bit special in a driver.
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Why you should learn how to use your camera
Mr. Foxen replied to Happy Jack's topic in eBay - Weird and Wonderful
[quote name='Wolfman' post='1011475' date='Nov 3 2010, 10:52 PM']Who should we pick on next..the bandy or the cross-eyed?[/quote] Gingers. Haven't ragged on them for weeks. Bassassin is one of them, I'll let you start. -
A guy said to me 'You have a ridiculous beard, and thus must be a bassist, if not, here is a bass, play in my band'.
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[quote name='JPJ' post='1011766' date='Nov 4 2010, 10:16 AM']I'm fascinated by threads like this one. Main stream equipment suppliers seem to ignore Hoffman's Iron Law and I'm guessing that both my cabinet setups must be hugely compromised in order to produce what I consider to be a very musical sound. Recent point in fact, a band I dep with occassionally use a Mackie PA rig. They normally use the 1802 (2x18 powered bin) for the bottom end but have recently bought a Thump bass bin (1x18). Now whereas the 2x18 bin is an awkward 2 man lift, the Thump can be carried by one person and is only slightly larger than the 18" driver. Ok, it doesnt kick the bass out like the 2x18, but it does add a lovely warm tone to the rig, is bloody loud to my ears, and is ideal in smaller 'pub' type venues. Am I right in assuming that the Thump is compromised and is making up for it with sheer power (1000w 'rating')?[/quote] The main stream compromise is usually 'Low', proper low end isn't really heard by your ears so well, so they can get away with making it sound quite loud in the still bassy but not as power hungry area.
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I was tempted, but I emptied my paypal with something else.
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Cab, always has the limitations, and you can't modify them without a new cab. Amps are much of a muchness once you bypass the preamp.
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[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Kays-Bass-Guitar-/220692001666?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item336244b382"]This Kay is American made apparently.[/url]
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Best thing to do is hook me up with that cab and stop worrying about it. As far as something to pair it up with, something bassy, and not worry about top end, and get a crossover. All a bit complicated for your purposes I think. This and a Barefaced Dubster taking the lows would be great, spensive though. Basically, if you guitar cab it up, it will have an awesome drivey midrange and highs, and you use something suited for awesome lows for the lows, like a PA sub. The cab won't ever do mega lows, but nor will an Ampeg 8x10 fridge, and never stopped anyone loving them.
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[quote name='MythSte' post='1010964' date='Nov 3 2010, 03:58 PM']its only an inch and a half shallower than the BF Vintage, although thats ported. Would anyone in the know know if it would be worth Paulus playing with some porting?[/quote] Vintage has much thinner wood that gains it some inches, plus much cleverer drivers. I think best plan would be use it as a guitar cab/toppy end of a dual rig, it is what I'm going to do with it when I get my hands on it.
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If you are a power seller or otherwise business seller, you get loads better support than privates. My Dad does loads of business via ebay and sings their praises.
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You'll get plenty of warning in terms of a horrible sound before you break something, just have to not be stupid with volume straight away.
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8 ohm and a tranny amp is fine.