Mr. Foxen

Peavey. 8.5C come up for about £100 and are beefy. But there are loads of others. Open them up, hoover out the fluff and you are good to go.

Realised this is actually really good, rather than just weird and wrong.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/OLD-VINTAGE-RELIC-SG-STYLE-ELECTRIC-BASS-GUITAR-/110605747537?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item19c09dc551"]£79 BIN SG bass.[/url] tempted to buy to flip.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BOSS-LS-2-LINE-SELECTOR-/230545043201?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&hash=item35ad8e2f01"]Right here.[/url] Not of super interest, but a great pedal that is super handy, benefits me if it comes up on BC later on when I want one.

The fan on my Matamp Quasar sucked in my hair last practice. These look a little more appealing.

A sec of feeler guages should cover the same ground, but not look as snazzy.

[quote name='gary mac' post='1006377' date='Oct 30 2010, 03:45 PM']I may still end up just trying to make it look like a 50's model that hasn't been played much![/quote] Good excuse to play it much.

I hear overheating issues with them, so running 8ohm cabs would be kinder on the amp, and the volume difference won't be very significant.

Cover yourself in engineers blue and play your bass some, that way you'll know where you rub against it and thus where to wear, as it were. Engineers blue may not be the best method, but I think you get the general idea. The best worn basses are worn where the owner has played them, if you can see a rubbed bit that isn't covered by their arm, you know they are faking.

It is guitar scale.

Was just given this as payment for restoring a guitar (musicians eh, cuh). I guess its one of those jobs from Woolies back in the day before Squiers, but I'd kind of like some proper info: My monitor is dying so I dunno if these pics are any good. The scavenge part if I'm after a tuning peg or two for the missing ones, although there is plenty else wrong with it (defretted for one).

Bah, this is seriously holding up my amp fixing because Umph isn't about for me to pick his brains.

[quote name='Phil-osopher10' post='995996' date='Oct 21 2010, 02:35 PM']Do I need to understand how sound waves work? What impact does the cab/bracing have on the sound/tone of the of the build? What about Air flow? Or is it a matter of chucking 6 bits of wood together and cutting a few holes?[/quote] There is pretty deep science at the fine end of this. But the main stuff is learn use WinISD pro to sort the bottom end tone (and this includes air flow, it can tell you how big ports you need and how fast the air in them is going), and stiffness and non-resonance is the aim of bracing. Plus there is lining and stuffing tat break up air resonances and destructive reflections. But yeah, chucking together 6 bits of wood and some holes can work pretty fine, the cab industry worked fine on that until the 70s or so.

[quote name='Lozz196' post='1005011' date='Oct 29 2010, 12:12 PM']I`ve found, to my cost, that upgrading/swapping can sometimes not produce the required results.[/quote] Second hand replacement bits and keeping the old one ensures you won't lose much but time.

[quote name='tom skool' post='1004874' date='Oct 29 2010, 10:34 AM']Anyone tried any other oils? how about danish oil? it has shellac in it but might colour the wood to much maybe. I only ask coz i can get that at a local diy store[/quote] Danish oil is a bit unspecific, as there is no set formulation. Some won't have shellac, I know Rustins (my favoured) has tung oil, but it is coloured, it will give a honey shade to maple. See [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=101055&st=0"]my refinish thread[/url] to see the colour change from bare but old maple to Rustins Danish oiled. If you fret in such a way you rub against the board loads (shallow frets, lots of bends/rock style vibrato) it probably won't be very durable.

[quote name='Soloshchenko' post='1004858' date='Oct 29 2010, 10:14 AM']I'm heading that way but could do to see an example where someone has done so as I'm a bit worried about colouring differences which are noticable.[/quote] Not sure as it's not my area, but I think some classic basses have a different finish on the headstock face to the rest, so they end up coloured differently anyway. You won't be able to avoid a colour difference at some point, the only thing you can mess with is timing, as it will change as it ages.

I'd leave the whole face, it's the only way of doing it without it being obvious that you've sanded round it.

[quote name='Wilco' post='1003118' date='Oct 27 2010, 10:37 PM']I've reduced the hiss by turning down the gain on the active Maverick basses, but it's still very noticeable even with the passive Fender plugged in.[/quote] If turning down the bass reduces the hiss, then some of the hiss is coming from the bass. Does your cab have a tweeter?

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Tokai-Rockinbetter-Bass-guitar-/300486576094?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item45f66547de"]"Tokai Rockinbetter.[/url] At least sounds sort of unsure about the Tokai link.

Sound absorbing is all about converting the air movement energy into other energy, usually via friction producing heat, so the bamboo fiber absorbing sound is because the fibers are free to rub together. Doesn't apply when they are glued. Bear in mind weight and durability issues aren't there for monitors, because you aren't expecting to be moving them much. I'm pretty sure it will be equivalent to very high quality ply in most ways, as with most things, the existence of cheap poor quality ply drags down it's reputation overall. Really, to achieve stiffness, you can do it with cunning construction, tensioning and bracing, have a look at aircraft woodwork to see how to achieve maximum stiffness for minimum weight.

Is this whole thing an reference to that joke about about a dude who washes up on an island, and there is constant drumming, and whenever he asks the natives why there is this drumming they run away, until he catches one and forces him to tell him "What is going on with the drumming?" "When drumming stops, very bad!" "Why?" "When drumming stops... bass solo!" Edit: Also, should have had TM Stevens in, he looks like he'd fit in well with the other characters.

What you want in cab material is strong, stiff, non-resonant and light. That website doesn't actually give any details at all on it's actual properties, which indicates marketing and style over actual physical usefulness. I'd imagine it is quite a high proportion glue due to bamboo only coming in strips, so it probably disproportionately heavy, and bamboo is known for springiness rather than stiffness. I think a cab made out of it would bounce better than most. Flooring and furniture benefit from spring, I think traditional hardwood ply would be better for a cab, but you could do it just to be different, it wouldn't end up heavier than an MDF cab (which benefits from being very non resonant, and cheap, but loses out on the weight and strength). Oh., and when you are working it, it will have the most vicious splinters going.

[quote name='geoffbyrne' post='1002292' date='Oct 27 2010, 12:20 PM']I've always used car polish, but sparingly as it's mildly abrasive - I'd have thought T-Cut might be just a bit aggressive. Car polish doesn't show the fingerprints so badly as a softer domestic polish. G.[/quote] If it is just dirty, a damp cloth cleaning will sort it. If it is actually properly beat up and grim (like stuff I work on) that is t-cut time. Important thing with car and domestic (mr. sheen) type polish is keep it well away from any bare wood, it will cause troubles due to silicone contamination, think of the future. In fact, keep it away from the electrics too, googling for some finish wrecked by contamination pics found stuff about it spoiling contacts too.

Bear in mind that the multi driver jobs that they aren't really suitable for close micing, they are more for monitoring purposes, and the flat response they are designed for is to faithfully reproduce the same sound that is going through your DI. The EV design is probably better for 'miced cab' sound, micing the others means finding a spot between the woofer and midrange where neither dominates. Occasionally you find at gigs someone has just miced the woofer and you just get low end out front whilst the bassist is playing a gurning solo.