Mr. Foxen

Is this whole thing an reference to that joke about about a dude who washes up on an island, and there is constant drumming, and whenever he asks the natives why there is this drumming they run away, until he catches one and forces him to tell him "What is going on with the drumming?" "When drumming stops, very bad!" "Why?" "When drumming stops... bass solo!" Edit: Also, should have had TM Stevens in, he looks like he'd fit in well with the other characters.

What you want in cab material is strong, stiff, non-resonant and light. That website doesn't actually give any details at all on it's actual properties, which indicates marketing and style over actual physical usefulness. I'd imagine it is quite a high proportion glue due to bamboo only coming in strips, so it probably disproportionately heavy, and bamboo is known for springiness rather than stiffness. I think a cab made out of it would bounce better than most. Flooring and furniture benefit from spring, I think traditional hardwood ply would be better for a cab, but you could do it just to be different, it wouldn't end up heavier than an MDF cab (which benefits from being very non resonant, and cheap, but loses out on the weight and strength). Oh., and when you are working it, it will have the most vicious splinters going.

[quote name='geoffbyrne' post='1002292' date='Oct 27 2010, 12:20 PM']I've always used car polish, but sparingly as it's mildly abrasive - I'd have thought T-Cut might be just a bit aggressive. Car polish doesn't show the fingerprints so badly as a softer domestic polish. G.[/quote] If it is just dirty, a damp cloth cleaning will sort it. If it is actually properly beat up and grim (like stuff I work on) that is t-cut time. Important thing with car and domestic (mr. sheen) type polish is keep it well away from any bare wood, it will cause troubles due to silicone contamination, think of the future. In fact, keep it away from the electrics too, googling for some finish wrecked by contamination pics found stuff about it spoiling contacts too.

Bear in mind that the multi driver jobs that they aren't really suitable for close micing, they are more for monitoring purposes, and the flat response they are designed for is to faithfully reproduce the same sound that is going through your DI. The EV design is probably better for 'miced cab' sound, micing the others means finding a spot between the woofer and midrange where neither dominates. Occasionally you find at gigs someone has just miced the woofer and you just get low end out front whilst the bassist is playing a gurning solo.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/yamaha-sb-2a-1967-70-bass-guitar-surf-bass-/290492766863?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item43a2b7da8f"]Think this is an old one?[/url]

If it is a thick poly finish, T-cut for cars is fine for the body. Rosewood and other oily wood fingerboards get the lemon oil. What sort of finish is it?

DO IT!

Also important to note is that WinISD isn't very good at midrange, it is ok for tuning boxes for bass, but the line it gives might not very well reflect what you'll get higher that 500hz or something, there are loads of other variable, like reflections from inside the cab and suchlike that affect midrange frequencies.

The 'active' input on amps with an input volume control.

I think bassassin should start including hidden messages in his information, like the first letter of a series of words spells out something funny.

[quote name='tom1946' post='999639' date='Oct 25 2010, 07:17 AM']They moved the ask seller a question' box to the bottom? what the fook for? It means you're scrolling up and down for no good reason[/quote] That bit is totally sensible, it is so you actually have to go through the description before asking a question. If you've sold, you'll have dealt with questions that are answered in the text, it also means the ask a question is near any already answered questions posted. Good logic, just the change you don't like.

It's really annoying, I still scroll and glance at the previous place.

Probably like two different basses being played badly, I'm thinking in the style of The Shaggs. Bet you could buy it, whip off the stupid bits and get a really good price for it, if it doesn't manage on its own. I'll have a bunch of spares if anyone wants to sort it out.

They moved it and made it light grey, it is in the middle bit now, under where the shipping terms are, in small, light writing on a white background.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Hondo-11-bass-guitar-/130447759102?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item1e5f4ad6fe"]Yet another Hondo.[/url] Did they sSee the one that went for £360 and put them up? Having loads on at once won't help the price.

[url="http://www.talkbass.com/wiki/index.php/Fearful%E2%84%A2_12/6_%26_15/6"]Here are links ot plans, and most importantly, cutsheets, for very excellent cabs.[/url] A lot like the Barefaced cabs, without the extreme lightness engineering and fancy crossover action.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/hondo-II-classic-rickenbacker-replica-/320607959018?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item4aa5b937ea"]hondo.[/url]

Mmm, Partridges. Edit: According to Greg Burman, not partridges. Superior.

Get that rubbery mat stuff, it is handy for going under amps, the stuff that is like blobs and holes, like under this amp: You aren't separating them acoustically, acoustic coupling is in the air, it means the speakers are close together and not separated by wood or something. There shouldn't be much by way of vibrations going through the wood.

[quote name='Musky' post='998536' date='Oct 23 2010, 11:23 PM']Class D just means that it uses a switching power supply, and is a proven technology. There's no need to preface the term with 'only' - it's not a rating of an amps quality, and just describes the mode of operation.[/quote] Class D and switching power supplies (switch mode?) are different things, although they go together for most of the the lightweights. You can have a switching power supply and not be class D, I think the little marks are like that. There can be fun when you have both together and the frequencies they operate at produce a beat tone at an audible frequency (like when you play two notes slightly out of tune and you get a slow modulation thing).

Hard to go wrong with Daddarios, except spelling and saying it. Good strings and cheap.

There are two mode 4 cabs, I know the 240w is loaded with Vintage 30s and is totally happy playing distroted guitary bass. Just make sure all your lows are provided by the appropriate rig. Fairly sure the newer 400w mode 4 cab is also happy, the distortion to get with the Mode4 will compress everyhting enough to keep it safe. However, the Mode 4s do get a bit breaky sometimes, overheating problems, there were a few at local practice space, but they all died, so watch out for that.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Kays-K20-B-1960s-Bass-Guitar-/270653324512?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item3f0431fce0"]Nasty Kay.[/url]

[quote name='2x18' post='997901' date='Oct 23 2010, 11:28 AM']Ricky copy! [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RICKENBACKER-4001S-COPY-/160497172999?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item255e608207"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RICKENBACKER-4001S-C...=item255e608207[/url][/quote] Looks like Nick's Maya that he used to have, except more worn in. Nice tail lift too. Work on a replacement is ongoing.