Mr. Foxen

[quote name='sk8' post='996696' date='Oct 22 2010, 09:10 AM']my reissue has partridge transformers, and is point to point hand wired in the uk i beleive[/quote] Reissue Partridge transformers might not be the same thing either. You can get ones that are 'Original Partridge designed transformers', and they have been [url="http://chambonino.com/work/hiwatt/hw4.html"]criticised.[/url] As always, the important thing is how well it works, and not what name badge is on it.

A wipe over with some meths works wonders for sticking durability.

[quote name='RickIronWitch' post='994651' date='Oct 20 2010, 12:11 PM']sorry to dig this one up but has anyone actually owned one of these? I hear the same behringer bashing story that "my mate has owned 3 of these and they all broke on the first day" but everyone who has owned one has had nothing but good things to say. I just want an honest opinion frm someone who owns one, is 550watts peak/ or 300 watts at 8 ohms going to be loud enough to keep up with my guitarists 150watt Sunn concert half stack and a Marshall half stack? And does anyone know how it handles low tunings (A/B/C#).[/quote] If you are going to be rocking really low tunings, you are gonna have to get pretty nice stuff, because non-standard tunings put non-standard stresses on things, and even if they are really good at the price point, they are going to be made to a minimum standard. Also, what model are you asking about, the Marshall copy won't be doing 300w peak or into x ohms, because it is valve.

I had a closely related P bass, one of the veryfew to come up cheap locally that I beat Nick to (and it was streets from him too). It sounded pretty good, but like the black on this hints, it was soft ply.

[quote name='pandathe3' post='993533' date='Oct 19 2010, 02:04 PM']Also, my Sch provides my thump and (in theory) my 2x8 can give me some attack in my sound.[/quote] What theory is this? I think you should search 'mixing driver sizes' and how they can implode the whole world.

Put the necessary parts on to string it up, missing a bridge saddle as it is with the chap making them (hit me up if you want brass saddles for your bass that happens to be shaped like this one). I made a brass pickup surround too, but didn't much like the look next to the chrome bridge (working on addressing this) so I stuck the original surround on top, so no finger gap still. Brass is all unpolished, because it fits better with the beat-upness of the bass. I also made a brass truss cover, although I was a bit overcautious with the leaving space for filing, and it is oversized:

I think Bassbod teaches, since someone asked if I was one of his students, he is a totally good dude to hang with too.

[quote name='risingson' post='992955' date='Oct 18 2010, 11:36 PM']I completely and categorically disagree with your viewpoint, and also the idea that any level of choice is involved in this process aside from a perceived one.[/quote] The Sound City will sort you, if you get an appropriate cab. When people say 'distortion', they don't mean pedal type distortion, compression is probably a better word. Valve amp power compression/distortion sounds good, not in a good distortion pedal kind f way, but in a big fat awesome valve amp tone kind of way that is pretty much not comparable in any way to pedals labeled 'distortion'.

[quote name='Bobby K' post='991919' date='Oct 18 2010, 07:58 AM']Would that need to be 250k, like the tone pot then? Could I get one in Maplin or somewhere like that? I'm not the greatest with electronics, what exactly would I need..?[/quote] Yes, and should be able to. Or you could just leave the tone put in place, in the cavity, if you are really desperate to have the same thing without the control option. If you got for the resistor way, it just replaces the tone pot.

[quote name='tino' post='992633' date='Oct 18 2010, 07:32 PM']QUITE NICE ITS ALMOST BLOODY MINT,,,,,Just needs the mute,,,,100% original plus a better bitta chrome thrown in.....cheap mudda Ferka[/quote] If you need the bit with the rubber on I have a spare.

I'v spoken to bunches of senior amp techs and they are mostly a bit mental, maybe from the 70s and the drugs, but maybe from the lead solder, so maybe make sure you have good ventilation if you want that lovely flowingness.

[quote name='Delberthot' post='991873' date='Oct 18 2010, 01:11 AM']I thought they only squashed together close enough for 16mm[/quote] Won't take much belt sander action to fix that.

Shim the neck, so you can raise the bridge without changing your action.

It won't be loud at all without a cab. enough cab will make anything loud enough. 120w with a 2x15 should sort you, with a 4x10 maybe not. If a Sound City 120 with appropriate sized cab (2x15 ported, or an 8x10, or two of those) isn't loud enough, it probably needs servicing properly. Those Ampeg cabs aren't as great as the name would make you hope.

I'd guess this is a publicity excercise as much as anything.

A day in my Dad's workshop and I have a straightish bridge (shame about the woodwork it goes on being curved), and a brass pickup surround and truss cover. Not sure which I'll be keeping on it. Pics to come.

Get the individual bridge piece ones. I got some cheap ones on ebay, they are fine, although I drilled them for through-stringing.

Get a socket so you can cap change easily, and have it poking out the former tone knob hole. Could also put a high value resistor before the cap, equivalent to the pot resistance, that would do the same as on 10.

[quote name='StevieD_FenderP2009' post='991745' date='Oct 17 2010, 10:44 PM'][url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ibanez-Bass-1974-Vintage-/180575663977?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item2a0b25f769"]Ibanez Rickenfaker - Quite nice[/url] dunno if this has been posted already[/quote] Tino posts here.

A cap will act like a fully rolled off tone control, although that would be dependent on the cap value. Probably best losing some treble elsewhere in the chain, like rolling off the tweeter some.