Mr. Foxen

Ask the guy who added it what he used, it would probably be simulating something if it was digital.

[quote name='TheGreek' post='991671' date='Oct 17 2010, 09:38 PM']Thanks for this..somebody had said about boiling strings but I was a bit sceptical.. The (brass/bronze?) strings on my acoustic are filthy and cos I only use it occassionally I was reluctant to buy another set - now I won't have to! (assuming it works on brass/bronze). Anybody?[/quote] Works fine, they might not come up shiny, but the gunk will come out so the sound will recover.

The OC3 eats batteries, think it is common to digital pedals. Best with a power supply, not come across other problems. I'd guess the switching jack is failing, also seen on other boss pedals, its a funny jack that won't replace easily, probably have to hardwire it to on and use a power supply.

[quote name='skankdelvar' post='988752' date='Oct 15 2010, 02:12 AM']Terry Gibbler - Slough - Wears a ski mask all night, even during interval.[/quote]

I've always thought the average guy in the pub will notice is a pretty crap standard to work to.

[quote name='mildmanofrock' post='988480' date='Oct 14 2010, 09:52 PM']Thanks for the QSC recommendations. Excuse my ignorance, but what does this mean?[/quote] It is the way the amplifier works internally. Class A/B means the transistors are set up in a push/pull manner, picture a sine wave graph, each set only works for one half of the wave above or below the center line. Class D is a bit fiddlier and switches back and forth at a very high frequency kind of like the line was pixellated into steps, but you aren't close enough to notice. Dunno about class H, but I think the Crate power Block uses it and every thinks it is class D due to being small.

[quote name='Delberthot' post='988652' date='Oct 14 2010, 11:55 PM']I was amazed at the sound I got from a Hartke LH500 and a Peavey 4x10" at a rehearsal last week. So much so that it was the impetus that lead to me doing a trade with my 2x15" for 2 Ashdown Mag 410Ts Such a punchy sound - plus its technically an 8x10" so doesn't get much more rock than that. plus its big and manly [/quote] Not sure of this logic. The Peavey 4x10 is a pretty different prospect to the Ashdown ones.

Stevie's left hand is pretty tough to emulate.

The Tecamp 6x12 was great and I miss it. For a brief period I was rocking a 10x12 rig.

The common Peavey 4x10s go really low, the 15s don't seem to, and can't handle as much power. Pretty bad mix. Edit: The 2x15 is the one to go for if you have a valve head.

Look out for one of the fretless Westone Thunders, they come up and don't get bid so high due to the specialist nature.

You've put forward and then tried to argue in favour an incorrect point. It is important to demonstrate it is incorrect, otherwise the point will be read an accepted by people less willing to put some thought into it. Which is how you get the whole 15s sound woolier than 10s thing etc. If something is wrong, I'm going to point out that it is wrong, every time. Using organic solvents to remove organic matter from strings is an entirely valid method to render them bright again, it has significant advantages over boiling by avoiding introducing water and head to strings. If you want to bin dirty things and buy new ones rather than cleaning them, its your money, but in a thread discussing cleaning methods, probably best keeping it to yourself.

[quote name='geoffbyrne' post='987169' date='Oct 13 2010, 05:24 PM']Surely the only thing that matters here is the phase/polarity of the speaker wiring? Use the old 9V battery trick & ferkle the wiring so they are all going in & out at the same time & phase. G.[/quote] 9v battery trick won't work into the amp, they don't pass DC unless they are breaking. The issue is the amp can reverse the phase of the signal, so if some amps do, and some don't, it will put them out of phase with each other.

[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=105405&st=0&p=977745&#entry977745"]See this thread[/url]

[quote name='farmer61' post='984293' date='Oct 11 2010, 12:09 PM']What's a shim??[/quote] 6-7th fret is pretty much the middle of the neck affected by the truss rod, might just be a back bow and sorted by a truss rod tweak. A shim is a thin piece of material but between two pieces as a spacer.

Massive valve bass amp. Also, some more massive valve bass amps. Doom

[quote name='D-L-B' post='986325' date='Oct 12 2010, 10:10 PM']Once the string has flattened off the metal doesn't become magically softer. What are you on about? Just because one material is harder than the other doesn't mean that both won't be worn when in contact with each other. I was saying that I can see how the squared off winds on the string could grind the fret down more easily than a new rounder edged string. It's well known amongst guitarists especialy if you're using stainless strings on a nickel fretted instrument.[/quote] If its harder, it doesn't flatten. Stainless steel strings don't flatten on nickel frets, the frets wear. Nickel is softer that stainless, so significant wear will show on the softer nickel component if the two are brought into regular contact. Its like saying rubbing a block of butter on a piece of wood will wear it faster than a rubbing a brick on it, because the butter will deform. The squared off winds are squared off by the shape of the fret, so they correspond in shape, meaning there is more contact area, and correspondingly less pressure per unit area. Really don't know why you are trying to achieve, it's really basic common sense at every step. It is the unwound strings on guitars that really eat the frets, because they are made of the harder core material always, for the strength,plus they get a lot more bends. It is well known among guitarists that a wound G is easier on your frets. Sorting worn frets under unwound G strings is something I have to deal with often.

Umph, get back inside my amps and get counting those gain stages.

Signal split at pedal board level, into several amps and cabs. I just know it isn't necessarily true that the output of an amp is in phase with the output, the polarity could be flipped anywhere along the line, so if I run a bunch of amps, some could be out of phase with others.

Ashdown Little Bastard has the DI tapped from the output transformer, so it has that option, still need a cab for it though.

As in is the output in phase with the input. Thinking if I run a fleet of valve amps, some might be out of phase. Polarity is easy to flip, but can they be other than 180deg out of phase? Also, how do you type a degree symbol easily?