Mr. Foxen

[quote name='Bobby K' post='986208' date='Oct 12 2010, 08:39 PM']So I could make the join I described above, but just make sure it's not too far from the pickup?[/quote] Yeah, the distance from the pcikup isn't critical, but more of the wire shielded is better.

The stuff wrapped round the pickup poles is super fine, probably thinner than a hair, so it probably stops and a thicker wire is attached, but it might be inside the actual pickup somewhere, so that the insulation on the thicker wire can be attached tot he housing and take any strain. Using thicker wire is fine, the winding wire is super thin. Just keep lengths to a minimum, you could attach shielded wire very close to the pickup, that is probably best.

Probably best extending the wire elsewhere. Usually there is a joint at the pickup anyway, the fine winding wire terminates and a more durable wire is attached to the bobbin more securely.

[quote name='D-L-B' post='985836' date='Oct 12 2010, 03:41 PM']I'm not talking about hardness, it's coarseness.[/quote] Hardness is the important hit. If the string and fret are the same hardness, the deformation will be equivalent. In you picture, the top is like a new string, or a string that is of similar hardness to a fret, and has not deformed noticeably. It is like a file in texture. The lower half represents a soft string that has deformed to the shape of the fret, and is smoother where it contacts the fret, a file shaped like that would be less abrasive. Either way, the analogy doesn't support a suggestion that an old string would wear a fret more quickly. Either the string is soft and deforms, and the burr is softer than the fret, or it is harder than the fret and doesn't distort and form a burr.

[quote name='D-L-B' post='985828' date='Oct 12 2010, 03:34 PM']If it's the same string on the same bass why should it not be in the same place? It it's soft enough to get a flat that doesn't mean the fret isn't soft itself or immune to wear. If you rub two slightly different grades of sand paper together both will still wear away... I can't see how you've decided new string will wear a fret more than an old one either. Here's a picture of what I'd imagine is going in what I mentioned above:[/quote] Sandpaper is all the same hardness. It also has pointy bits like a new string, when is is flat, like the underside of a worn string, it doesn't sand wood any more. I generally use steels and don't get flats, they are pretty similar ion hardness to the frets. In fact, I've used the same set of steels on my favourite first bass since I first restrung it. No fret wear I see.

[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=36625"]Check this thread.[/url]

[quote name='D-L-B' post='984764' date='Oct 11 2010, 07:36 PM']I once heard that old strings can increase the wear on your frets. Something to do with the flattened off underside of the string (on round wounds), where it contacts the fret, creating a sharp edge like a burr and wearing the fret down.[/quote] Don't see it as an issue. If the string is taken off and put back on, the flats probably won't be in the same place, and if it is soft enough for a flat, it is softer than the fret. A new string would wear a fret much more than an old one in any case. Can't imagine dishwasher salt being good for strings, it is hot water and salt, not the best combination for avoid corrosion.

Peavey power amps come up that will bridge into 8ohm for that sort of power. I had a Peavey 8.5c, 1100w into 8ohm, not light, but was about £120 or so. Got my Matamp Quasar which is 1000w into 8ohm for £145 or so. Sort of got lucky there, but they don't go for much when they rarely come up.

Nice he has a lesson with the actual basics on there. Flea doing that is pretty much the ideal thing.

Do a search, and they come up in plenty of discussions about valvey drive. The info is a bit diffuse, so I can't link a standout thread. General consensus is you lose some lows, so with a blend is best if you want your bottom end. I use one in a dual amp rig, the two channel one. Nice and responsive, does what a valve guitar preamp should. Definitely more of a guitar sort of sound than growly bass drive. Respond well to valve swapping, which is a good sign it is actually valve tone you are hearing.

If you like a clean uncoloured sound, you'll be happy being DIed rather than having your cab miced. I think that is probably the best practical indicator. This will probably happen with the multi driver cabs, because they are a nutpain to mic, when you get the guy who you can see playing a bass solo, but all you can hear if your insides jiggling, that is when someone has miced up the woofer in their multi way cab and not DIed them.

The Big One is for transparent, uncoloured sound, but I'm fairly sure you don't actually mean a transparent, uncoloured sound. Easy way to check if your rig is transparent and uncoloured is you hook up a music player into it, and see if it sounds right.

Mention Orange and he'll shout at you a quite surprising amount.

Those are tension changes, which also change the tuning. Need to find what it is buzzing on. Sure it isn't part of the mechanism that is moving? You can crudely test the nut raise hypothesis by putting a piece of thin plastic under the string in the nut slot. If you nut is loose, can put a shim under one end of the nut.

String buzz won't be to do with the tuner post, since hte nut determines the height. Is it just buzzing when detuned? Might need to raise your nut or replace it, if you are using the same strings. Going Graphtec is good because the string can slide through easily.

That was a special offer, unless you mean the newly updated standard price. There are around that theme, advantage of going direct.

Totally no reason not to go direct.

Have a browse in for sale. Ultimate would be secondhand Hartke LH500 and a secondhand Barefaced Compact, might just be able to get that within budget, if you are lucky. That will cover a lot of ground and all the volume you'll need unless you start playing Doom or something.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330483196507"]Fairly sure this is our own Umph's Hondo, but doesn't mean it don't belong[/url]

Yeah, I would probably be fretting about what to do with this if I had a job, bidding expecting it to go far higher is how I bought my first BC Rich. There's nothing to lose by bidding what you can afford at any time.

I'm sorted as I have the original with my bass. He offered it in my restoration thread. Probably gonna be cutting one for brass or copper and etching/sandblasting the CMI into it, let me know if you want a metal TRC, can do polished stainless and stuff.

[quote name='Vibrating G String' post='980136' date='Oct 7 2010, 03:19 AM']I get the feeling you don't really read all the words before posting [/quote] I don't work off feelings. Observation and research to explain it. That's why there are quotes associated with my rebuttals. You have read this: [quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='965704' date='Sep 23 2010, 03:33 PM']Just like speakers, the magnet material isn't the bit changing the tone.[/quote] And then tried to construct an argument against magnet material changing the tone, as is apparent from quotes such as this: [quote]Actually neodymiums are the strong pickup magnets. Are they super bright?[/quote] The design parameters of a pickup are dependent on all factors, one of which is magnet material and the associated properties. Other factors are adjusted in order to achieve the design goals, which for the purpose of a bass pickup are in a very limited bands of size, output and response with additional cost considerations (where ceramic wins hugely). The significant advantages of ceramic magnets means there is far greater scope for adjusting these design parameters, as they are stronger and more stable. The main influence on the brighntess/voicing/response of a pickup itself is the nature of the coil, but to achieve the required output within the required size, other design elements have to be adjusted. These factors are all related, definitely not 'unrelated' as you claim.

Totally didn't see that coming.

Ha, guitarist sent me a video pointing out that amp.