Mr. Foxen

replace 3 if you want it all properly matched. You can get away with not doing so most likely. If its off though, might contribute for faster death of other valves. I tend to favour replace all with valves I get at trade price, so I can test and sell the used good ones whilst they are still good, and not lose too much money that way.

Could be matching, what brand? See if you favoured valve supplier that stocks that brand can make anything of it. If there are two bias controls, only need to replace the 3 on that control. Edit: now I see pics, the 10 12 isn't to do with the bias matching, that would be hand written or on a sticker.

Not working like turned white, or lost its heater glow? Most of the time valves still glow when they are dud, its possible the valve is ok but not getting its heatier current, might be individually fused. Swapping about will tell you what you need to know. Is there just one bias control? Are the valves in there marked with an indicator of their matching? If it is written on them, you might be able to order a matching one. You could just sling one in, its one of those 'chances are you'll never notice' sort of things. Ideal is replace with a matched set, and the ones taken out as spares, or sell as a used quad and one spare.

A bass 4x12 would solve the overhang thing. Don't need much power handling, so might want to aim for sensitivity and cheapness, rather than excursion.

That cabinet is two cabinets in one, the 10s are high passed. That also means you should high pass into them if biamping. They probably can't take more than 30w or so of full range, you can't just treat them like a 2x10. Bear in mind each set of speakers has its own jack, and there should be a full range jack with a crossover that splits the signal once it reaches the cab, need to make sure you use the right ones.

Magnet and hoover bag content.

http://post-new.com/#news=node/1097

Restoration work was done

Sounds like the SC120 needed a recap. They'll stamp all over the Behringer working right, more everything. The behringer will probably be better than a broken sound city though.

Coins and stamps and simlar things took a massive hit with the internet making it suddenly very apparent just how common certain things actually are, and took a lot of the price control out of the hands of the dealers, who run sites like that. They don't like it.

http://www.merproducts.com/knowledge-shop/mer-faqs/ [quote][color=#000000][b]Does MER ‘Ultimate Shine Polish’ contain Silicon?[/b][/color] Yes. All wax polishes contain Silicon which helps protect paintwork, producing a remarkable mirror-like surface.[/quote] Contains silicon means don't let it anywhere near a guitar, or anything else that will need a finish applied ever again.

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1371730614' post='2117437'] Ture, but valve amps need an output transformer as well, SS do not. Valves themselves are very expensive as their manufacture is fraught with environmental issues, high labor cost, and very limited usage/demand. [/quote] Actually, I've got a valve amp without a power transformer. It isn't the safest thing, but it exists. valves are the expensive bit, and the only significant bit that makes a valve amp that isn't negotiable. Even then, valves for my 40 year old valve amp are much easier to get hands on than transistors for my 40 year old solid state amp. Much less choice gives a more stable cost over a long period.

[quote name='MoJo' timestamp='1371730659' post='2117439'] Which are the cheaper ones then? [/quote] Bunch of ones cheaper than a VBA here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.363434913762369.1073741840.351966881575839&type=3 Be loads more after my caps order turns up.

Thought of a better one ;Valve amps appear expensive because you aren't looking at the cheap ones.

The 5w jobs from epiphone have no bottom, which might be good in context as bottom travels through walls. Ashdown Little Bastard will cover a lot of territory for £300 though.

[quote name='tonyquipment' timestamp='1371724479' post='2117327'] require more engineering to sound right... [/quote] Definitely not this one. Valve circuits are so established at this point there is nothing new to be done. Plus the circuits are incredibly forgiving to bodgery, often people find them to sound better when completely bodged (see Marshall).

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1371722599' post='2117283'] ...which begs somewhat the point, if you'll allow me. A decent spec power + o/p trannie pair will set one back some $350; smoothing caps around $100 on top. Most SS amps would use a toric trannie, costing far less. Class D do without altogether. A 'high spec' trannie is not necessarilly expensive these days, compared to the old lumps of iron found in valve amps; the 'high spec' lumps of iron were, and still are, very expensive. You're damned right, of course, in affirming that modern trannies for SS have, generally, a much higher spec (and quality, generally...) than the old ones, and are cheaper. Valve amps didn't have this advantage... [/quote] Trannies for valve amps don't cost any more to have made than ones for SS. Its still iron and wire, only difference is economies of scale. Also the costs are way off, I'm selling top tranny sets for less than that, and obviously picked them up cheaper. I just ordered smoothing caps for my pile of 4 Sound citys, and totalled about £70, and vast bulk of that is because have to get specific ones to fit the old clamps, which are way oversized for modern caps of same spec. 5v rectifier?

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1371686682' post='2117097'] Fixed..? [/quote] Not really. The amp i just bought has super high spec transformer, way ahead of anything you'll find in a valve amp, made by the company that makes top end valve amps, and SS power trannies have developed much further than stuff in most valve amps, £100, 1000w amp.

Plenty of cheap amps have a power transformer.

The marshall badge in that case. Otherwise, they aren't expensive. They are a range of prices, same as any other thing, some are expensive, some are cheap, some are well made, some are poorly made, and there is a fairly limited link between those factors.

Looking at that pickup spacing, you allowed to post that here?

[quote name='Damonjames' timestamp='1371645166' post='2116512'] If you are buying used, I would recommend spending the extra 100 quid or so and get the 1000 watt version. I love mine, you can get the same grit, but you have loads more headroom for a clean tone if that's what you are after. Most certainly NOT a hifi sound though! [/quote] 1000w power section won't make any odds to the headroom, since its the preamp that lacked headroom. Maybe the 1000w one has the later preamp, but will be same with the 500w with same preamp. 500w is more than most cabs can handle, so headroom issue won't show there.

They've changed the preamp gain in later models. Earlier ones were all dirt unless you changed preamp valves, newer ones have some sort of control over it.

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1371543727' post='2115153'] Just to redress the balance. It isn't true that mixing speakers is always a bad thing or that the effects are completely unpredictable. [/quote] How do you predict then? Using phase charts?

Ashdowns are probably the easiest. 4 bolts on top, and the combo speaker is usually on a jack. Ashdown might even sort you a sleeve.