Mr. Foxen

Change them when you want the sound of newer strings. There are loads of videos on youtube, some are quite bad. Find a pro looking one, and post it up for critique. A good set of wire cutters and a pair of smooth jaw pliers should be all the tools you need.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300474184254&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT"]Eagle.[/url] Mmmm, like both my BC Richs combined in Eagle form.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/bass-guitar-walnut-project-hurry-rickenbacker-pull-/180567917449?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item2a0aafc389"]Back again.[/url] did Rick really pull it, or did he pull it when it didn't make the reserve in his head?

Haven't had reason to take my other Burman apart since I first cleaned it and I didn't have a camera handy at the time. It is due a recap though. What could the disaster from the crimped connections be? Its done properly, and they are all secure.

You'll have much less harmonics going on, and that means higher frequencies where your ears and speakers work best, so it will probably seem quieter. The important bit down low should still be there though.

[quote name='Vibrating G String' post='967323' date='Sep 25 2010, 08:57 AM']Actually neodymiums are the strong pickup magnets. Are they super bright?[/quote] Out of the alnico and ceramic choices you have in conventional pickups, ceramic is the stronger. The only neodymium pickups I know of are far from conventional. [quote name='Vibrating G String' post='967323' date='Sep 25 2010, 08:57 AM']Coil winding is unrelated to the material the magnet is made of. Any difference in magnetic field strength between materials can be compensated for by simply changing the mass of the magnet.[/quote] Pickups require an output level within a certain range, and are limited in size by a standardised form factor. Thus The output must be maintained through magnet strength or winding length. Alnico magnets were the only thing available when the size was established, and the output levels were correspondingly established at this point. So increasing the mass of the magnet using alnico would take it outside the size limit established. This limitation was removed by the advent of ceramic magnets and thus very hot pickups became practical, and there was space to work with regarding coil length. [quote name='Vibrating G String' post='967323' date='Sep 25 2010, 08:57 AM']No 2 pickup instrument has a pickup that sounds like the un amplified instrument. This can be suggested with simple logic. The 2 pickups sounds different from each other and therefore only one at best can be a close match to the un amplified tone. Most Alembics have at least 2 pickups. Is it the neck or the bridge that sounds just like the acoustic tone? Dismissing things like where you press your ear to the body, how the instrument is held and any tonality imparted by the amp and cabinets as having any bearing on the tone is troublesome.[/quote] Neither sounds "just like", it sounds "very similar". I'd guess it would have been the neck pickup, I generally favour that.

[quote name='Protium' post='971000' date='Sep 28 2010, 06:42 PM']Assuming the same EQ and amp through each (otherwise what's the point ) The first two sound much more trebly, more rounded, brighter - exactly what you'd expect from 10's and 12's. The Vintage sounds very muffled in comparison (even against the Fender). It might be loud but if it sounds like that, no thanks. Not nice to my ears. Lacking brightness, exactly like a typical 15.[/quote] The first two have tweeters. If the DB cans run the same driver as the GS ones (I think the difference is in the mid voicing) then the barefaced 15s are significantly brighter. The only BF Vintage I've played is Shockwave's betweetered one, but I had it rolled off, but I've tried a couple of Compacts, which are voiced the same. The GS cabs with the tweeters off are pretty dark sounding, I've checked with Aguilar and the tweeter is high passed, the woofers run full range so there is no treble loss from that.

With a 1x15 you'll have a more consistent tone as you move off axis compared to a 4x10, is to do with width of radiating plane and pistonic beaming. Thing is, 15" speakers you can get now are plain better than any 10" speaker you could get ever.

[quote name='Merton' post='970844' date='Sep 28 2010, 04:31 PM']WTF is a slow moving sound? [/quote] Just listen to those reggae guys and their 18s, miles behind the drums.

[quote name='Musicman20' post='970835' date='Sep 28 2010, 04:21 PM']Changing amps to suit cabs is something I dont agree on.[/quote] You don't believe in using the tone controls on your amp to control your tone?

[quote name='Musicman20' post='970691' date='Sep 28 2010, 02:11 PM'][b]same settings,[/b] same gig, with a normal 4x10, and masses of difference. Confused.[/quote] This is the problem.

Firely sure you should give up on a camera's own mic and merely use it to align sound recorded elsewhere. Our own JoeGarcia has a live recording rig he can be paid to record you with anywhere he is doing sound. Or take him on tour with you, so I can use his room to dry basses I'm finishing.

60w Carlsbro PA I've been working on myself, all works now, but the reverb is really microphonic from the rubber mounts being perished. My awesome handiwork fitting much smaller modern caps in and sticking in with silicone:

Easy. You have my number? Will need it to enter the House of Bass.

Yeah, gig sweat isn't idea undercoat though. Idea is seal the moisture out, not in. It will take about a week to do a few coats and let it harden off well.

I would buy that just for the model name on the second pic.

Thinking a bit more, would have a spot weld mark on other side, might go further than the knob. Flatten off and then plate it and ya golden though. Or solder instead of spot weld.

[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=101055&st=0"]See this thread for maple bass sandied to oiled maple bass.[/url] Best bet is to come have a look at it in person. It will be a bit more brown/gold than it is bare, and it will age.

Could totally make the washer thing, Center punch a washer, bend it and spot weld. Easy if you have a spot welder.

£15, will help pay for all the stuff I bought to finish the rick, and have left over. Guessing it is all sanded and such? Is the fretboard side needing doing too?

I think they'll be generic far eastern, I'd hit up some ebay seller with questions.

Oil on, gonna do a few more coats I think, then its waiting for new bridge ot be cast and having new plates cut out:

Danish oil. I'll do it for money. Or you can at least come and have a feel of my Rick copy I've just done in Danish oil.