Mr. Foxen

Check huge crack in the back mind. And the pickup route appears to have no sides.

[quote name='deaver' post='965990' date='Sep 23 2010, 07:28 PM']Unless some chav has pinched it...[/quote] Nah, he's an expert at spotting them.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/KINDLING-/230529802101?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item35aca59f75"]Kindling?[/url] Ash burns well and for ages, but wouldn't want to start a fire with it.

The wire wool bits have been a pain actually, wiped them off with a cloth, but worried they might react and give a rusty colour or something as it dries. Reckon next oil coat on with a cloth, build up a couple then polish down with wire wool again.

I'd buy that just to part it out.

Just did that, the oil is quite coloured (it has been sat about for a few years, and has some lumps in it seems), and even dilute, there is a nice golden glow to it, gonna wait for it to harden off and burnish it down with the wire wool again, and go over it with a cloth to lose the bits.

[quote name='Vibrating G String' post='965192' date='Sep 23 2010, 03:19 AM']So there are no non voiced pickups and ceramic magnets are brighter? How does the composition of the material holding the magnetic field influence the frequency response? Alembics peaks are below audible bass tones? Where are these peaks? Do you know Alembic used to advertise all their tone was the voicing of the pickups and wood was irrelevant?[/quote] Just like speakers, the magnet material isn't the bit changing the tone. Ceramics are brighter (if they are) because the stronger magnet needs less windings for the same output, less windings is brighter, I think because there is a capacitance to long lengths of wire that rolls off some treble. Alembic pickups are very low output, as they have very few windings, and are correspondingly not very coloured by the amount of windings, the level is brought up by the preamp, similar to EMGS. The Alembic I've tried, into a fancy am was very transparent, the sound from the amp was very similar you the sound from putting your ear against the body.

Think sanding is done, everything's cool, and everything's smooth (hey that's smooth). Rain has stopped play but next is dilute danish oil with white spirit 50/50 and get polishing with that and ultrafine wire wool.

If that leaves one, I know a chap after one (not JoeGarcia, but he might moan a bit).

I've always found jazzes are quieter both on full. back either off and it comes back, there is a cancellation somewhere in the low mids due to the way the string moves or something. Much worse if you have far apart pickups.

[quote name='Captain Rumble' post='964542' date='Sep 22 2010, 03:01 PM']Is this similar to snake oil [/quote] Yeah, except the tone is better.

Spoke to hardware store guy, plan is Rustins Danish oil (has actual tung oil in it, unlike some danish oil), and white spirit, so it penetrates, and just build that up.

Paypal balance to paypal was free, but if you were going via a card, gift just meant the sender gets charged instead of the receiver.

[quote name='LawrenceH' post='963992' date='Sep 22 2010, 12:02 AM']Just flooding the offending areas with nitromors doesn't help then? Possibly 'watered' down with whatever solvent would be appropriate (something like acetone?!) to help it penetrate? I realise you'd have to be pretty careful in how you contain this to avoid damaging the binding. I'd be surprised if the undercoat at least was a catalysed paint, much more likely it'll dissolve out if you find the right solvent. Perhaps if you do this though you should feed the wood a little oil after to avoid over-drying and cracking it.[/quote] If nitromors penetrates the wood as much as this paint has, I'll have trouble when I try and finish over it. I'm thinking white spirit and see if that shifts it, as I'll be using white spirit and danish oil for the finishing. Or possibly teak oil.

I've done this mod to EMG loaded guitars and a bass, definitely opened things up.

Uploaded the recording of a jam using stereo outputs mag and piezo. [url="http://www.megaupload.com/?d=ILISUHQQ"]Megauploaded here.[/url]

[quote name='BassBod' post='963813' date='Sep 21 2010, 09:20 PM']I'm a numpty when it comes to electricky stuff - but, in theory, could you build half an F2B in a small box, using a FET rather than a valve..with the same passive tone section..and power it from a 9v battery? I love the sound of my old F2B but hate carrying rack boxes to small quiet jazz gigs![/quote] Fairly sure a FET wouldn't give same sort of grit as a valve, the the EQ curve could be done. Could probably fold up the cirucit with a valve into a sensible space. Maybe Umph could do something with those subminature valves he was using.

Don't bother with dryogenic valves, they are snake oil. Just get some nice preamp valves. When you say 'Gold Lion' I guess you mean the reissue, Joe Garcia has tried some and they broke. Not sure if it was the valves or the amp though. Anyway, not heard that they are a patch on the originals. It should probably have KT77s, but earlier ones were EL34, not that the circuit will differ, but what is the power rating? EL34 would be 50w, KT77 would be 70, I think, there is a [url="http://www.burmanamps.fsnet.co.uk/"]Burman fansite[/url] and the chap from that is communicative if you email him, can probably sort a manual for you too. Burman said that just put good valves in, the circuit gives the tone, valves are like light bulbs, some will break and some will be fine. I'd go for KT77 still. If you really want authentic, you can have the pair of original Gold Lions from my Burman Pro502 for £300. No real reason for an alnico speaker really.

Anyone got experience of this? I usually use danish oil, but thinking the tint to teak oil will give a nice glow to the maple and skip out the whiteyness stage of fresh maple.

[quote name='bumnote' post='963494' date='Sep 21 2010, 04:29 PM']Well this is now mine [or at least when I go and collect and pay for it] In 1977 when I bought my 450/106 it was way out of my price range, I desperately wanted one, but couldnt afford it, and today Ive got one but im going to have a job to lift it. It wont fit the car with the other stuff [pa etc] so I dont know when Im going to use it but hey so what. How am I going to sneak this into the house away from Mrs B[/quote] I have a place you can stash it.

[quote name='cocco' post='962945' date='Sep 21 2010, 08:17 AM']Maybe I drempt this but don't the tubes in the 400+ work in 4s not pairs?[/quote] There's only two directions a tube needs to work in, push and pull, so 4 would be two pairs.

I found a new solution, own all the amps (in the world ideally, working on that, but the ones the guitarist is using) so they have to do what you say.

Days of scraping and sanding and it is starting to look like it should: Thinking I might have to accept it will retain some of its 'history' though, back looks fine form some angles, but not others, as the white undercoat is right into the deep scratches from power sanding: And the black has really worked it's way into the end grain: Anyone got any ideas on how to sort that?