Mr. Foxen

[quote name='fryer' post='955744' date='Sep 14 2010, 09:37 AM']I'm thinking of building a bass cabinet. Normally cabs have 10" or 12" speakers. 8" speakers aren't listed as bass speakers on Blue Aran. Those that are listed only go down to say 50 Hz, so how do say Markbass get a bass sound from 4 of them in a cabinet ?[/quote] Probably use 8s designed for bass.

The circuit is wired so the switch says to it 'change' instead of 'be on' or 'be off'. Latching is the switch having to hold it down, but it wants just a poke, hence the twice, to get the effect of a poke from a switch that holds down, as it were. It's easier to explain with the use of a finger.

I accumulate spare parts until I have an especially boring day, then I have a new bass to play with.

Not it is dry and indoors, I can see patches of the original finish in places, any tips on getting that off? Also interesting to note is that the scratchplate screw holes have been filled and redrilled slightly moved, so something has happened there too.

Stripper on the back, mmm, blistering: Post scraper and it seems the blistering was where the stripper had separated the original finish from the other coats, where the finish was sanded through, the wood retains the white primer: Having done the front too, I thing they started sanding the front by hand, going perpendicular to the grain, then switched to an orbital sander, but got bored of it before the back was done, I think the strip was necessitated by the original finish crazing, due to the paint stuck in the cracks in the original finish. Front hasn't come up as clean due to being mean with the stripper to save the binding. Going to be a wire wool job tomorrow to get the rest. Also gonna need hefty sanding/scraping to get a nice finish put back on it. There is a binding gap at the back, some of the binding came loose, easy enough to glue and tape when the time comes.

Shouldn't really do anything you can't do by fiddling with the head.

[quote name='Conan' post='953375' date='Sep 12 2010, 10:19 AM']Question for Alex - would it be difficult or inadvisable to market a 4 ohm option on the Compact?[/quote] Don't think the driver comes in 4 ohm, so can't make them. Super 12 is for that.

At the waiting before scraping part of stripping now. Done the back, front now. Had a 'Dammit' moment when realised there was original finish underneath the refin, but as continued realised if had been patchily sanded off, so it all has to go. Pics to follow Also realised a better way of missing the binding after carefully putting nitroomoors away from it, should put it on as normal then wipe it off the edge, after the first 5 minute stage, will still loose the paint on top, but not ruin the binging. As it is, will be some scraping.

All lies. SVT 2 is the ULTIMATE TONE. Any second hand valve amp should probably have a going over by a tech. Stitch in time and all.

[quote name='Subthumper' post='953090' date='Sep 11 2010, 08:02 PM']Interesting stuff. No problem getting KT77's , JJ now make one and its very good. Probably would sound good for a bass amp as they seem to be halfway between a 6l6 and an el34. Would love to get my hands on a Burman.[/quote] I have a couple of original Gold Lions that I could be persuaded to part with, kinda noid about using consumable stuff that I can't replace.

[quote name='Colledge' post='952941' date='Sep 11 2010, 05:55 PM']what is the general consensus about 18's? i know big pa subs all use them and they'll have bot all treble, but i just can't imagine them doing anything but create muffled, boomy horribleness.[/quote] Diameter means not much. Big enough to be significantly direction in the top bit, and no-one makes them for anything except subs, which is why they don't have treble. Old ones can, Jaco got enough top from his W horn. You do need a very big box, not having this is what gives you the boomy horribleness.

Ampeg specifically made this to troll BFM.

You've still posted in the music theory section, take it to Amps and Cabs. Plus there is an 'Edit' option at the bottom.

[quote name='4-string-thing' post='952476' date='Sep 11 2010, 09:22 AM']I did a gig recently using my Acoustic 220, which can run at 2 ohms. I used my Acoustic 2x15 4 ohm cab and added my Acoustic 1x15 which is also 4 ohms. I have to say adding the extra 15" cone and halving the impedance made my amp no louder whatsoever![/quote] I think most of that would achieve is giving you the upper power limit of the 1x15 x2, so not much further ahead than the 2x15, except for 50% more speaker area.

More power available gives you more options when designing the circuit. More headroom and more dynamic range is probably the main thing. I think higher voltages are more efficient, like when power lines are high voltage, but not really sure how that would apply to bass. Oh, lower noise floor/signal to noise ratio.

Turn down the volume on the louder bass.

I'd love a fake Squier. I think that putting so much importance on a name written on something is the wrong bit. If people judge how good something was by how good it was, there wouldn't be a problem.

[quote name='Ian Savage' post='952077' date='Sep 10 2010, 05:50 PM']I sincerely doubt it, as a lot of amps wouldn't be able to drive one reliably; that said, if you get a cab with four sixteen-ohm drivers in it it could be rewired to present a two-ohm load quite easily. Although be absolutely sure that your amp can go down to two ohms without getting excessively hot...[/quote] 4 16s in paralell is 4 ohm. you need 4 8s.

Generally an 8 ohm 4 speaker cab can be rewired to 2 ohm, but not no-one makes them like that because it is more trouble than its worth, except possibly peavey, as I've seen photos of a 2 ohm 4x12, which matches Peavey's tendency to make amps happy to 2 ohm.

None of that gear had legendary status at the time, they were just guitars. Now they are guitars like The Who used to play.

I find fingers are too digital.

The nicer wood was picked out for the transparent sunburst finishes, so might be something in it if you are into that, more likely to be fewer bits of wood glued together etc.

I think stainless steel can still have nickel in it. I do recall elixirs I've seen being the bright colour of nickel rather than the greyish of stainless.