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Mr. Foxen

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Everything posted by Mr. Foxen

  1. [quote name='Riddler' post='897467' date='Jul 17 2010, 06:12 PM']Cheers, but I've got allen keys. I need replacement screws. I'll try a decent hardware store if such a thing still exists![/quote] Bear in mind those are proper imperial sized screws, and most hardware stores only seem to carry funny foreign sizes now.
  2. How well aligned are the strings against the neck? A screw loosening and a tug in the appropriate direction, then tightening, and sort all sorts of alignment fun.
  3. I got some Klusons on mine, proper snot green jobs. Very smooth, they were imperial size for real Gibsons, so I had to drill out the holes slightly to fit the grommets in.
  4. Finally picked one of these up. Chunky heavy duty, do need to secure the cable on it as it doesn't seem hard to pull off if you are having trouble positioning it. Bit hard to run the cable into the earth wire hole, if it isn't central. Plus mine came with the wrong sized allen key. I plugged it into a Zvex Super Hard-on as a buffer, sounded pretty good, but the rough set of strings I slung on for testing had a rattle, and it shows that up really well. Sounds pretty true to the acoustic sound, as the strings were new (discarded due to rattle) it was really bright.
  5. [quote name='1976fenderhead' post='909756' date='Jul 29 2010, 10:59 PM']That's cool. I'm actually asking because I tried their normal Flanger for a while and didn't really work with bass at all. They've just reissued this one and because of the size it's tempting, but if it just makes the bass sound thin and weird like the other one then no good. How did you find it? Did you manage to get a nice 'jet' swirl from it, and also keep your low end?[/quote] As I say, I used it in the treble side of my fx chain, so any low end loss wasn't really an issue. I didn't do much with it except play Stranglehold, because its not really the sort of sound I'm after for anything, I just got it in part ex for an amp.
  6. [url="http://barefacedbass.com/index.php?page=compact"]This is in budget, and are very good.[/url]
  7. There's all the new ones you ain't tried yet, like this [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Now-stock-Tuscany-BIRD-Bass-Guitar-Cherry-/290459145206?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item43a0b6d3f6"]Tuscany[/url]
  8. [quote name='3V17C' post='909495' date='Jul 29 2010, 05:56 PM']hmm.. seems increased reliability is not this amps strong point! it turned up today... went to try it out and .....dead. nothing... checked the fuse and although it looked fine i replaced it... ta da! amp worked fine! til i turned it off and on again... then .. dead again!! again the fuse looked fine but i changed it once again but this time to no avail.... one dead amp. not best pleased - admittedly it was secondhand but its in immaculate condition, still with original box etc and came from a dealer. i've got a rehearsal tonight and important gig tomorrow and the reason i bought this is because my current rig is being slightly temperamental. dealer is being fine about it and getting it picked up again tomorrow for his repair guy to look at, but that doesn't help my gig situation, and of course the whole point of buying the amp was to get something newer and more reliable than my current stuff. even if this gets fixed now i'll worry about it conking out in the future. who knows when it'll die again!? really quite pee-ed off :-( bah. c[/quote] Putting a fast blow fuse in a time delay fuse slot?
  9. [quote name='henry norton' post='909246' date='Jul 29 2010, 01:59 PM']It's the same story with woods, finishes, cables, you name it. I do think a hand made, hand wired amp is a nicer amp to own than a mass produced one - just like the instruments we play through them - and knowing you're playing an exquisitely built bass and amp can make you play better. It's a similar story with 'classic' gear, what used to be boringly bog standard off the shelf faire turns into magic sounding rarities, seemingly overnight in some cases, 70s Fenders for instance. As for the PCB question, imagine how expensive the V8 would have been if it had been wired point to point... [/quote] Ha, I've just had a quick check over, with the except of the Ashdown practice amp in the living room, all my amps are hand wired, most on turret board/turret track, (which people seem to label point to point even though it isn't). None were very expensive, and none have managed to turn me into a better player, just a louder one, which is , I feel, at least as important as ability.
  10. This could turn a lot like the neodymium sound thread. So many other factors going on.
  11. Probably better running one power stage into each though, will run cooler, and more efficiently.
  12. [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Tokai-Rockinbetter-bass-/330456021544?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item4cf0b6ba28"]Rockinbetter.[/url]
  13. [quote name='escholl' post='908836' date='Jul 29 2010, 05:56 AM'] but on a nerdy note, I had this discussion with him once, and told him that when he could provide the objective data I would be all ears. He never did, but he is pretty busy. Till then, I stand by my statement however. I will be doing a masters in audio acoustics this year or next, and am planning a doctorate after that, so hopefully I will finally be able to resolve this once and for all in the next few years! [/quote] There was an email exchange with one of the Celestion engineers about speaker break in on some other forum, he said the sound of a Vintage 30 does change but it is supposed to sound right from the box, so the bottomier tone after they are played in (favoured for Doom) is actually the sound of a worn out driver. It is fairly noticeable with guitar drivers when you are expecting lots of bottom from them.
  14. [quote name='SS73' post='908934' date='Jul 29 2010, 09:38 AM']It's got to sound better. My biggest problem with the V8 is the fact it's on a PCB, it really does show in the sound and I know that if it was hard wired it would bring the amp to life.[/quote] Not really convinced by this. Especially since I have handwired PCBs in some of my amps, is it the touching them that helps the tone?
  15. Every time the flanger got turned on I started playing this: Put it on the treble side of my board, didn't fiddle with it that much. Plus it is paid for now.
  16. Kinda missing details, but the answer is probably [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=193"]in this thread.[/url] Reckon you might need a shimming.
  17. [quote name='escholl' post='908416' date='Jul 28 2010, 04:52 PM']The differences between a "broken in" speaker and one which is not, are in nearly all cases less than the difference between two of the same speakers -- that is to say the difference is less than the manufacturing tolerance for that speaker. If you are able to provide accurate and repeatable measurements to the contrary, than please do so, I would love to see it. However, all data that I have seen to date indicates "speaker break in" to be a psychoacoustic phenomenon, and more likely has to do with your ears getting used to the way that speaker sounds, or simply just the individual hearing what they expect to hear. Edit: Slightly further research brought up mention of a paper published by David Clark and available through AES, which discusses measurable "speaker break-in" that occurs in the first few seconds of use, after an extended period of non-use. This is likely not the sort of "break-in" you were thinking of however. [/quote] From [url="http://barefacedbass.com/faqs.htm"]here:[/url] [quote]Do I need to 'break-in' the cab? Not really. During the first ten or twenty hours of use the speaker's mechanical make-up changes somewhat as the cone bellmodes become more evenly distributed and the suspension softens, resulting in a smoother clearer and deeper (and all round better!) sound. The change is most noticeable with the Big One which sounds like it's gained almost another octave of lows between being brand new and broken-in. However this does not mean you have to baby the cab as you would when running a car in, they can still handle full power when fresh - just look forward to the tone getting better as the woofers loosen up.[/quote] Nerd fight!
  18. Don't use WD40 in pots, it is bad for them, only works in the short term, makes it worse shortly after. No idea on pricing, but this isn't really the right section for that.
  19. Jedson Telecaster shaped bass, bought on ebay with a lowball bid. It was photoed at an angle so I didn't twig it was guitar scale. Never found strings that would work on it. Still laying around somewhere with nothing useful worth stealing off it for a project. One day Bassassin will post a wanted ad for some part of it and I'll sell it to him for a pittance.
  20. [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/OLD-JAP-BASS-GUITAR-/260642400618?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item3caf7f696a"]Everything wrongness of this pleases me.[/url]
  21. [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VINTAGE-1978-KAY-20b-BASS-GUITAR-SIMILAR-RK-BKR-/260642495304?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item3caf80db48"]Kay[/url]
  22. Need some bits and pieces for a new build. Paypal I up. Morley Wah, big sweep, optical so no scratchyness, £37.50 posted Dunlop Wah, traditional, normal guitar one, boxed, £37.50 posted EBS Octabass, the older one without the switch, straight up good octave sound, simple. Works pretty well with guitar too it seems. £70 posted. MXR Flanger, vintage 70s, annoying jack type power socket, original rubber thing so you can adjust with your foot. £25 posted [pending] Line 6 Uber metal, digital, lots of knobs, cheesy metal sounds. £35 posted All can be picked up in Bristol with appropriate discount.
  23. [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1977-Guild-B-301-bass-/230504628054?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item35ab257f56"]Hefty postage mind.[/url]
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