Mr. Foxen

[quote name='bubinga5' post='890968' date='Jul 9 2010, 11:53 PM']i would dig it if a girl came up to me and said i love your groove, and note placement..is that a Sei Jazz with Bartolinis....and do i hear the awesome versatility of a John East pre amp within that there lovely wooded custom bass.........fancy a pint?[/quote] That sort of happened to me, except it wasn't a girl, it was this: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=89774"]On an unrelated note, please cast your vote here.[/url]

I was out with some friends, including a lady who was 'the plan' and pretty much in the bag as it were. Nice lady, but the second glance you give her might not be for the 'right' reason. Her much hotter friend I'd not met before comes up and says to me 'I hear you play bass, what do you have? I've got a washburn.'. Total ah dammit moment. Stuck with the bird in the hand, worked out pretty well for a bit. Still wonder what could have been though.

Those are the only two I can think of that don't agree with active basses, although I don't use an active bass, so it isn't my area. Hot just means a lot of signal coming out of the bass.

[quote name='Bassassin' post='890794' date='Jul 9 2010, 08:45 PM']This'll be a Guitar Hero / Rock Band peripheral - there's a Lego Rock Band game [i]a la[/i] Lego Star Wars, Lego Batman etc. Jon.[/quote] It won't make any money where they've put the buttons. Cause you know there's no money above the 5th fret.

Actives cause impedance trouble with some fuzzes. Shouldn't be an issue with digital models of fuzz. The Woolly Mammoth doesn't like actives, not sure about others, the Big Muff can give an output drop if your bass is very hot, as it outputs same level whatever you put in. SFX do a gizmo to correct the impedance issue.

Got a quote from [url="http://aceofsprays.co.uk/"]these guys[/url] for a trashed warlock body I had stripped and sanded: [quote]Hi Oli, thanks for your enquiry. To sort the body and finish off any repair work, 2k primer (high build) and paint in prety much any straight or metallic colour would be in the region of £150. To do the same but with the steal/rusty look would be in the region of £250, it has several proceses and takes a fair while longer, this look also gets a Mat finish. Hope this sounds ok. Cheers Ace -- All quotations provided by email are approximated and subject to change pending the viewing of the panels in question. Quotations provided by email are valid for 30 days. Quotations are on the basis that panels are to be removed and delivered by the customer unless otherwise arranged. A 25% deposit is required to cover initial material costs.[/quote]

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rare-1983-Westone-Thunder-II-Passive-Bass-Pearl-Silver-/320559190035?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item4aa2d11013"]Uncommon Thunder variant.[/url]

[quote name='WILD FROG SHOT' post='889627' date='Jul 8 2010, 04:03 PM']I'd imagine it would also give an excellent slap tone (although it's not really a technique i've ever needed to use).[/quote] Lack of slap bass is what has been holding back your band all this time.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOKAI-ROCKINBETTER-BASS-/220633997157?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item335ecf9f65"]Rockinbetter.[/url]

Shims are about the least technical thing possible to do with a bass. So much less drastic than routing. Are you going to route it yourself? If you are paying someone to do it, they'll be able to shim it cheaper, without harming the bass.

I like Johnson necks, they are like half a baseball bat. Dislike the headstock shape though.

Listening to the sound your bass makes is good, more from the fingers, less from the amp. If you have hair to your shoulder, some under tension under the strap, also under tension brings some more sound you your ear, cup phone style.

I asked him for the patent number. He replied: [quote]yes ...registered at office of patents.[/quote] It's called the Patent Office anyway, mostly I want to see what is novel about this. The Misfits guy has had a knobless bass for ages, wired straight to output, so it isn't novel.

Here's the opportunity I've been looking for to post this: Doomiroquai

Email Ashdown, they are pretty good. Like they actually say if there is a fuse you can change yourself, rather than saying send it back.

ABM is sealed. I also have one spare, if you are interested.

Unless you are making something fancy, like one of those BFM crossfired jobs, probably only worth the making time if you wanna be playing into a home made. Guitar cabs come up so cheap if you know what to spot. Especially unloaded ones. ChiSeerkind score a Hiwatt 4x12 for £30 or something.

I recorded the Caricatures album using the valve one. Recall it was heavy, but not considering it is a 400w valve head. Far too many knobs and switches, mostly a case of figuring which switch turns off the knobs. I heard the chap I borrowed it from got rid because all the fault lights lit up. Fairly sure they are telling him the bias is drifting, as new valves do, and it needed setting to its new equilibrium. It has got lots of complicated in it.

I know (most of us know) a guy who used heavy standard strings for tuning to drop A (actually drop, like AEAD. There are tonal compromises, but he compensates with lots of pedals and multiple giant rigs (I'm guessing that's what he is compensating for).

[quote name='orangepeelneil' post='881740' date='Jun 30 2010, 11:18 AM']I have seen Greenboy's fEarful cab designs on talkbass and bill fitzmaurice's designs, but there doesn't seem to be a 2x10" design- I guess there is a technical reason for that?[/quote] 15s and 12s are better, basically, in practice, the best of the 12s and 15s are better than the best of the 10s.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rickenbacker-Bass-Copy-/260628632220?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item3caead529c"]Not even listed as Tokai, and check that truss cover.[/url]

The big silver one is great if you like tinkering. Space for all sorts of mods and more knobs.