Mr. Foxen

[quote name='bass445' post='865742' date='Jun 13 2010, 10:03 AM']thanks for the info guys, but that isnt what i asked, i asked what wattage of speakers i need for a 450 watt amp head[/quote] Wattage doesn't mean anything, so ignore it. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=3730"]See here if you wanna get complicated.[/url]

Stuffing sealed bass cabs is considered a total win for a bass cab's tone. Why not for a guitar cab? I'd figure the 'tone' is in the 'flaws', but I don't see why it should be any more so than for a sealed bass cab.

If I go to a gig and the electrics don't fuse each of the first three strums (forcing him to cut a kilowatt of amps from the backline), I feel cheated.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ibanez-ICB300EX-IceMan-Bass-Red-White-Checkered-/200482615711?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item2eadb1f19f"]Iceman[/url]

[quote name='Lfalex v1.1' post='865516' date='Jun 12 2010, 08:50 PM']Valve Biasing?[/quote] Don't need it with preamp valves.

BDI21. Watch local ads and make rubbish offers on any bass cab that comes up.

If you are digging the crude and dirty valve amp sound, why not go for a crude and dirty valve amp? Stop messing with the shiny pretty things. Depending on how loud you want, There are a bunch of valve amps going. There are some Mesa that straddle the border between valves and shiny tech, and probably cheaper than the Aguilar.

Loosen all the screws before taking any one out. Don't put the screws down somewhere and then put the body on top of them leaving a load of marks on it. Make a note of anything you are looking for, cause it totally sucks if you put it back together and realise you've forgotten in the excitement of your first neck removal.

Get a Sansamp BDDI, stick all the knobs at 12, including the blend, and be surprised how 'ommphy' it makes anything.

For a cautious toe into the world of looping, I have a Akai Headrush E2 going apparently, bit of radio silence from the other 'buyer'.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='863065' date='Jun 10 2010, 11:07 AM']Buckminster Fuller I believe![/quote] Pretty sure he is referencing the mainstay of early WW2 bomber command the Wellington: Course, bouncing 2 ton metal explody things on water is cooler.

[quote name='ShergoldSnickers' post='862955' date='Jun 10 2010, 09:30 AM']Got me wondering as well.... Rather than using wooden battens and bracing, would it be possible to use a threaded metal rod to stress opposing panels by pulling them inward toward each other? I guess this rules out lots of designs due to the driver(s) getting in the way of the rod. You'd want the panels joined by the rod at the point where they flex most - slap bang in their centre I would presume. Might mean narrow front, deep cabs! Use an aluminium rod for weight saving and.... well like I said, jus' wondering. Hang on... that's it - geodesic bass cabs as per Barnes Wallis! [/quote] Putting it all under tension should work great. The other way would be to pre-tensioning the whole thing in assembly, then you have all the fun of it exploding when you drop it and a joint gives. Aircraft design is a fairly good place to look, pressurised and light, not a very practical shape though. The airflow stuff for jet intakes probably applies to ports too.

[quote name='bumnote' post='862939' date='Jun 10 2010, 09:19 AM']What are the Health and Safety reasons? is it the material or where you use it[/quote] The dust is pretty bad for you if you breath it in, think it is the resin that bonds it all.

You can use a guitar head into a bass cab, it might be a bit bass shy, and it will sound wrong for guitar playing though.

Can any of the graphicy people make me a Doom stamp of approval?

[quote name='ped' post='862779' date='Jun 9 2010, 11:50 PM']After spending weeks and weeks learning the ins and outs of the thing sounding the same with all of them.[/quote]

[quote name='johnzgerman' post='862782' date='Jun 9 2010, 11:55 PM']surely a cab is going to produce different sounds depending on where you rap upon it, ie. if you hit it where one of the braces is attached to the side of the cab internally then it will be very dead, if however you hit it on a surface that is in between the bracings and a corner of the cab it will be more responsive. i think[/quote] It will make more noise in the more flexible bits. Those bits will flex when the cab is being used, cause pressure inside is in all directions. Any flexible bit is a bit that is losing energy. When I first heard about this I went over my cabs giving them a good tapping, the ABM is so heavy no-where stood out as a loud bit, and the Tech was also dead all over, even though it is light, there is all sorts of funny bracing going on.

2x10 as similar to the one in the combo as you can. Sit it on end. In fact, have a go at sticking the combo on end, on a box, so it is closer to your ears.

MDF isn't used for the higher end stuff cause it isn't very durable when dropped. A sort of check for needing bracing is rap on the panels with your knuckles, if it thuds, producing a low note, that note is being absorbed by the cab flexing and wasting energy in use. Better cabs give a higher and quieter note as they don't flex much producing little sound.

[quote name='Marvin' post='862345' date='Jun 9 2010, 05:01 PM']Late to the party again I'm afraid . I have very limited experience in all things technical, however I did have a very interesting chat with a music shop owner a couple of weeks back. He was a real tech nerd (and a really top bloke) and he explained how Line 6 create the 'digital models'. Unlike my zoom which is basically a recording (it's a bit more in depth than that but it basically only emulates the end sound), whereas the Line 6 guys break down the whole signal from start to finish and recreate it at every point. That's why it sounds as good as it does, you get the whole thing. He said it was a fantastic piece of kit, and in the main most people can't tell it's a digital sound.[/quote] But the Line 6 presets sound dreadful. I think it is listening with machines and not with an actual ear syndrome. [quote name='Wil' post='862375' date='Jun 9 2010, 05:23 PM']Are Sansamps digital? I've never used a POD but I know I'd take a Sansamp over a heavy, potentially unreliable valve amp any day of the week.[/quote] Sansamps are analogue. Some have digital control, but analogue signal path. The simulate and are programmed by ear to a fairly large extent, so they sound good out the box. Edit: bah, beaten to it, but would like to note the floor programmable ones have digital pots, so there are 256 positions that are stored in memory, or whatever, so you can recall them.

All the developments in speaker technology that BFM and Claber often mention have passed Matamp by. If it was good enough 30 years ago, it will be slightly better now, since speakers are better, but don't expect any cunning engineering. The attitude wins for amps, cause valve tech hasn't moved on in that time, could probably do better technically with speakers, but they won't have the style. I am collecting my Matamp 2x12 this evening. It is a guitar one though. The neo speakers are probably wasted because they don't tend to bother with the whole 'port tuning' thing. I did email them and ask for a particular speaker and appropriate tuning and I was turned away.

[quote name='BigRedX' post='862128' date='Jun 9 2010, 02:35 PM']Oh and digital clipping is a user problem not an equipment problem. If you don't know how to use your gear properly, you won't get the best out of it no matter what underlying technology is powering it.[/quote] I think that is another +1 of idiot proof/completely unresponsive 3 band passive EQ. [quote name='silddx' post='862132' date='Jun 9 2010, 02:39 PM']I agree with all your points, but particularly this one. There's US Technology Service Desk slang for this, "PICNIC" Problem in Chair, Not in Computer.[/quote] Wasn't an issue when computers were valve. No chair.