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Mr. Foxen

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Everything posted by Mr. Foxen

  1. Should probably calculate the excursion limit of the speakers and the voltage required to get there, then set a voltage limiter to below that. From what you have told us there is no way to tell you how to set your limiter. Probably best do it by ear, find where your speakers protest and make sure it doesn't get that far.
  2. At auction the contract is formed at the fall of the hammer. The payment is the completion of one parties obligation. Wouldn't massively surprise me if Ebay claims not to be an auction any more, hence 'World's online marketplace' and no instances of the word 'auction' on their front page.
  3. [quote name='throwoff' post='776918' date='Mar 17 2010, 07:18 AM']Correct me if I'm wrong but is he saying ceramic magnets are inferior?[/quote] Think it is the same generalisation as valve vs. solid state etc. where the cheapest examples of one are used vs. the other that usually appears only in midrange and above. You get ceramic pickups that are a magnet hot glued to the back of a coil with steel slugs. This guy also makes the mistake of thinking the 'worth' of something is related to what you spent on it.
  4. Making the payment was consideration, against the item, so a contract was formed. There may be a term somewhere amongst ebay's raft of rules incorporating a term in the contract that it can be dissolved by return of that payment, but that hasn't come to light.
  5. Put the mids back. And stand the 2x10 on its side, and the 15 in such a way it is at its tallest.
  6. Had a problem in a 12" ashdown combo where the wires going from the termincals to the voice coil had touched eachother. Have them out and have a look.
  7. Open it up and look for a fuse near the speaker outs, if that has blown, (possibly a short somewhere) that would explain things, and be easily fixeable (unless it recurrs when there is a problem with you cab/cable that is shorting it). Guessing you are using the DI out on teh head, which would be unaffected by this.
  8. Picked this up as have been meaning to try one for ages, mostly to have something a little less obvious than a Sansamp, with an extra button. I tried it and I didn't like it. I think it is just less coloured, and the distortion isn't my bag. Haven't used it as a DI, probably very good for a clean DI with some tone shaping options (mid control!) and there is a lot of sweep in the tone controls. Have to admit the Sansamp is the sound I'm after with everything in the middle. Boxed, but missing battery door (gaffa taped over), with the instructions. Comparable to a half brick. £85 posted.
  9. [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/bass_W0QQitemZ120544386337QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV?hash=item1c11015d21"]Stripey.[/url]
  10. Sold one of my precious Dimarzio model 1s. Smooth enough.
  11. Heard a couple of good comments on the sound of the guitar amps. I'd imagine some nicer valves would make a world of difference.
  12. The auction is won by the person who bid most, first. The first bid prevents the title being edited, and once its on, you can't forget to bid. If you aren't worried about your cash being tied up, bid early. Puts off the lowballers for a start, they pass over it and don't later think 'actually, thats worth a real bid'. People bidding in little increments is a sure sign they don't know how a max bid works. An early full size bid will defeat the last minute increment people as they run out of time trickling bids and getting massively frustrated you are always £1 ahead. Most satisfying to watch someone try that until they run out or seconds.
  13. [quote name='SteveO' post='775181' date='Mar 15 2010, 01:18 PM']IIRC its because impedance increases in coils as the power increases, so with the tiny measuring current of your meter you will get a nominal value, but the impedance will increase when it's under normal operation. /nerd[/quote] Not quite. The meter measures resistance. The impedance is affected by frequency, and also by other factors such as capacitance, so the nominal value is a normalised average over a range. You have to put quite a lot of power into it before the heat in the coil shifts it too much, when you are hitting power compression territory. /bigger nerd
  14. [quote name='joegarcia' post='775122' date='Mar 15 2010, 12:28 PM']If you can eq an amp ok and hear when speakers aren't happy there is no reason you should have ANY problems doing this.[/quote] Thing is, you are trying to hear unhappy speakers over the sound of the bass side, and the distortion from the guitar amp. Simplest safety would be a bass eq with the 50hz slider right down, but using a crossover, such as are found in some bass preamps, is better. The Peavey Max pre and the Ashdown RPM (in for sale, that I was tempted by) both have them, you can run full range to bass side, and >100hz to guitar side.
  15. [quote name='Conan' post='761885' date='Mar 2 2010, 03:10 PM']I'm guessing that it would put out around 350-400 watts @ 6 ohms. According to the website though they are very sensitive, meaning that it should still be plenty loud enough! It does sound like an odd impedence to go for doesn't it? I'm sure greater intellects than mine can explain why Alex has departed from the more customary multiples of four?[/quote] It is because he measured the impedance, rather than quoting the nominal of the woofer. I think it ends up being odd because the crossover does things to it that I don't understand.
  16. Really tempted to trade this with Tayste2000, but could really do with a pile of monies. Save me from excessive gear pile temptation.
  17. Gotta be loose stuff then. Unless it is the speaker, in which case, unbolt the speaker and rotate it, bolt is back so its on its side.
  18. Passive splitting is a bit dubious, it messes with impedance and can make stuff sound funny or get quiet. A boss LS2 is what you want, but there are other options, think there is a DHA valve buffered one. I have separate outputs for my pickups and mix them together on the board after pedals (or use separate amps).
  19. [quote name='Annoying Twit' post='773579' date='Mar 13 2010, 01:16 PM']Oooh, what sort of bass?[/quote] Some sort of P copy with lots of upgrades, EMGs, Anodised scratchplate, heavy duty bridge. Rubbish neck though, stripped it, sold the parts and used the body for a frankenstein that is my main bass now.
  20. Sounds like you are allergic to nickel. One of the Bristol bass players had it. Go back to stainless strings. Might also have trouble with nickel fret wire.
  21. [quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='767240' date='Mar 7 2010, 07:54 PM'][url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vintage-70s-Cimar-Jazz-Bass-Copy-MIJ-Lawsuit-Japan_W0QQitemZ160411325776QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV?hash=item2559429550"]Cimar[/url]. With the added benefit of necessary mods already done.[/quote] This one is on its last day and isn't too silly yet, was thinking it's like a VMJ, but actually old.
  22. [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Indie-IRK-4-Classic-Shape-Bass-Guitar-Natural_W0QQitemZ200449667006QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV?hash=item2eabbb2fbe"]Indie[/url]
  23. I got a bass for £17 once, so it does happen.
  24. [quote name='joegarcia' post='772993' date='Mar 12 2010, 05:35 PM']Yup, same story here. Ebay said that it is between me and the seller and as they had already refunded me there was nothing they could do. I said this completely undermined eBay's 'entering into a contract' rules[/quote] That's not Ebay's rules, thats the law's of this country. Ebay is not party to the contract, the contract is between you and the lister.
  25. [quote name='Charla' post='772879' date='Mar 12 2010, 03:43 PM']Just a thought, would insulating the cabinet make any difference; it's an Ashdown 2 x 10 compact and has no insulation at present?[/quote] Stuffing with insulation helps a sealed cab in the mids I think, if it is a ported cab, then lining with knobbly foam is the way, to break up reflections inside.
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