Mr. Foxen

[url="http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Technique/Finish/CelebSig/celebsigsig.html"]Pro job here.[/url] I love that website.

Can you get at the back of the speaker to check the woofer with a meter? Could be a breakage at the crossover.

[quote name='jimmyb625' post='762310' date='Mar 2 2010, 09:52 PM']It looks from that link like the 200 and 300 is Neo, or have I read it wrong?[/quote] Nah, me reading wrong. the Ns and Ls are the bit that determines neo or not. All this has me wondering about loading my 8x10 with oldschool 10s for the early 8x10 style not very bassy but very awesome sound. Maybe Celestion Vintage 10 guitar speakers. Anyone know what the equivalent to those old 32ohm drivers in the first 8x10s is?

[quote name='stevie' post='761174' date='Mar 1 2010, 08:49 PM']Nowadays, lightweight means neodymium. The Celestion BN10-200X looks quite good. It's a neo and costs about £60. I haven't modelled it but it should be happy in an average sized 2 x 10 cab. The Eminence Deltalite 2510 is not bad, but not quite as good as the Celestion and quite a bit more expensive, at least in the UK. If you want a neo 10, the Celestion BN10-200X is your best bet for value. Should you want to pay more, the choice widens :-).[/quote] [url="http://professional.celestion.com/bass/green/index.asp"]300x is the neo.[/url]

Both my mockingbirds have it, I like it.

[quote name='Mr.T' post='761053' date='Mar 1 2010, 07:07 PM'](I might need to do some tweaking to the ports, if anyone would like to volunteer some advice. [/quote] Make the port telescopic, even if its with rolled up card, figure the right length like that.

[quote name='Mr.T' post='760509' date='Mar 1 2010, 10:45 AM']Not wishing to hi-jack this thread, but..... How did you work out the port sizes? I am asking this as someone who doesn't know the difference between a cab tuned to 40hz or 50hz. [/quote] That is one of the functions of WinISD. Enter your drivers and box volume, and play about until the graph is fairly flat. The port tuning puts a hump around that frequency, you aim to have the hump where the box naturally drops off, to extend the flat part somewhat. Basically, the longer the port, the lower the tuning, so if you end up with a boomy box because the tuning hump is on top of an existing hump, extend the port, can experiment with a telescopic port.

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' post='760355' date='Mar 1 2010, 01:14 AM']And that's why you should not consider designing your own cab, or even choosing your own drivers for that matter. It's far more involved than it appears. For a beginner this is probably your best route, albeit a long one: [url="http://www.talkbass.com/wiki/index.php/Fearful"]http://www.talkbass.com/wiki/index.php/Fearful[/url][/quote] Fairly sure Wayne is going to be the next Alex Claber, so be afraid of the competition. The 5 or 6 fearful threads are fairly interesting reading. They do end up looking a lot like 'The Big One'. Critical analysis of post please?

Shoelace is the tradition strap extension to headstock. Sometimes they come with them. Carful if you tour in the US though, it may be considered a [url="http://www.texassmallarmsresearch.com/BATFEStuff/ShoeLaceMGYes.jpg"]machine gun.[/url]

Winning a prize for stupidest face is still sort of losing. [JoeGarcia]

[quote name='waynepunkdude' post='760175' date='Feb 28 2010, 09:27 PM']Cheers mate, I'm a little unsure what all of that means if I'm honest.[/quote] I'm mostly messing with WinISD for learning purposes so I might be wrong on some of this, hoping one of the knowledgables will come and argue with me so I can pick their brains, so don't take this as concrete fact. Basically, the horizontal axis is the frequency, and the vertical is the volume, this is all at 1 watt input power, as that is the standard. [url="http://www.phy.mtu.edu/~suits/notefreqs.html"]You can find the notes frequencies correspond to here[/url] Bottom E is about 41hz, but most of the sound is in the harmonics which are all higher than this, so even if you totally cut out everything below 40hz it would still sound like a bass. The 82hz harmonic is probably most important for the sound of a low E and the sealed cab (yellow) is about 8db down there, so is going to sound gutless, if you've played with a graphic eq, imagine turning bottom slider or two down most of the way, and that is where your cab starts off. Sealed cab is not great for these speakers unless you make it very big. The ported cab (red) is only just starting to roll off about there, so should be a happy cab, but if you want dub bottom or stupid detuning, its going to get unhappy, because those speakers will hit their limit fairly early due to their low xmax (this isn't shown of the graph, but WinISD has the option). The grey line is pretty far superior to the others, which is why the Aguilars are such beasty cabs, although the bump you see (which is not unlikely due to my lack of understanding and could be false) is in about the frequency range that will give you beefy sound.

Vented cab in red (let WinISD predict the ideal volume), sealed of same size in yellow, same size cab with a Delta12LF in it, because I'm guessing that is pretty much what an Aguilar GS112 is, and I've been using the 412 as my basis for comparison. The 2mm Xmax says the aren't great for bottom, but you can get loud middlyness from them.

[quote name='waynepunkdude' post='760130' date='Feb 28 2010, 08:41 PM']What is WinISD? The speakers will be these. [url="http://www.lean-business.co.uk/eshop/celestion-bn10300s-4ohm-neo-magnet-bass-guitar-speaker-10-p-327.html"]http://www.lean-business.co.uk/eshop/celes...r-10-p-327.html[/url] Cheers for the help Oli.[/quote] It take unintelligible speaker specs and turns them into an unintelligible graph. However, if you take a cabinet you like the sound of with known speakers and measurements, you can adjust your cabinet size and ports to voice your cab similarly. It's a cab simulator so you have some idea what size of box and holes in it you will need. [url="http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisdpro"]Download here[/url] That speaker is not pre-programmed in it, so you'll have to take the Celestion specs and key them, I might do it later, pm me an email and I'll send you a file, if its like the Celestion RIM was going to use, their spec round the figures dubiously and WinISD disagrees. Edit: just keyed the basic spec, the rounding did disagree since WinISD uses to 4 decimal points, I fiddled until I found the one that rounded to same as [url="http://professional.celestion.com/bass/pdf/BN10-300S4.pdf"]Celestion's spec[/url].

Got WinISD figured? That's a handy tool Materials depend on what you want form the cab. Thick plywood means less fiddly bracing and such, but heavy. Guessing with a 2x10 it is not such a huge issue, so thick ply an d crude construction is happy enough. Decent void free ply is ideal. MDF works ok but might as well do a proper job and use ply for toughness, and a better strength/weight ratio. BFM for plans if you want a fancy cab, but I'd guess you are a trad cab sort of guy. Box of a known internal volume with each dimension different and a correctly tuned port (see WinISD) is all you need, ince you have speakers decided on. I think cutting the round hole for the speakers is the most challenging bit, but t-nuts can be fiddly.

[quote name='MythSte' post='759865' date='Feb 28 2010, 04:12 PM']Yes and no! From what i remember of Alex' and Bills' Geek ramblings sensitivity should be useful, but it isn't as everyone seems to measure it slightly differently? Anyway, Que a million and one people telling you to use your ears! [/quote] Nominal sensitivity is probably a better word for it, since like impedance, it varies with frequency. Fact is it is sensitivity and excursion limited power handling (determined by xmax)that you want in order to avoid finding you have a quiet cab that farts out easily. The fact the specs published might be misleading is secondary, because firstly you need to look for them, and secondly the manufacturer needs to publish them, and they often don't. Your ear is the measure of those properties, you hear it being quiet; lacking sensitivity, and you hear is breaking up; lacking excursion limited power handling.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SHAFTESBURY-BASS-GUITAR-60-S-VINTAGE_W0QQitemZ310203741929QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV?hash=item48399576e9"]Not a 4000 series faker.[/url]

[quote name='josh3184' post='759643' date='Feb 28 2010, 11:00 AM'][url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=74900"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=74900[/url] plus [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=78132"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=78132[/url] Never have a problem with volume ever again [/quote] +[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Elacin-ER20-Hi-Fidelity-musicians-hearing-protectors_W0QQitemZ360236796180QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_MusicalInstr_Access_RL?hash=item53dfc94914"]these[/url]

I think this is a pretty good demo of why the power ratings of a cab are a bit irrelevant to the practice of using it. The things you want to look for is sensitivity, which is the more volume with the same amp bit (usually achieved by more speaker area). The farting out bit is determined by the mechanics of the speaker and a bit more difficult to find out without some serious nerding (so if you wanna know, ask a serious nerd), the watts rating is the amount it can take before melting, the point where it farts is unrelated to that. There are a bunch of threads on that sort of stuff, if you search 'xmax' and 'thermal power handling' you'll find AlexClaber and BFM waxing geeky about it.

I think the celestion website give all the specs, but they are rounded in such a way that WinISD doesn't accept them, you have to figure which it is (if you are using pro it tells you which are not compatible) and remove it, and then let WinISD calculate it to fill the blank.

Edit: Difficulty sorted, looks like its heading my way, woo.

[quote name='Bassassin' post='757798' date='Feb 26 2010, 02:16 AM']pretty much everything's in Bristol.[/quote] I think you can get a bit more specific than that. If JoeGarcia hadn't just carted 5 basses and 6 amps off to the studio it would all be within 20 feet of me right now.

Then paint them with duratex or something, which is probably much easier than tolexing, and all round better.

Has been up before, there was discussion about it not nearly being fender and the control plate shape.

Partly a judgment call, but you can slide them under sting pressure when they are close. Is a ballpain though, I like monorail bridges as I prefernarrow spacing. Get them roughly in, tune up, tap to correct, lock.

Actually, those aren't mine, just the 8x10, they are my housemate's. Definitely stacking 3 at some point though. the 6x12 is surprisingly dinky, fair bit handier than the 4x12, but the 6 ohm and my Matamp disagree.