Mr. Foxen

[quote name='elliswasp' post='745974' date='Feb 15 2010, 03:36 PM']right now thats interesting i have a 210t cab with black drivers in which i assume are celestion and i have a 115 cab with a blueline driver would you replace all of them or keep the celestions and change the blueline 15.[/quote] Not convinced those cabs would agree too well. Wouldn't mess with changing drivers, pick which one you like and go for another the same, cause changing speaker in the will just make them even more oddly matched. If the 15 is the sealed one, probably leave as is, speakers can get funny in sealed boxes, you don't have the ability to retune the port to suit.

Blue are Sica, some of the black ones are Celestion (in my older ABM8x10 there are Celestions). I swapped the blue in my 1x12 combo for an Eminence Delta, definite improvement.

I've put a mini 4 channel mixer on my board. With various ways to split the signal I can mix up all sorts of interesting things, usually guitar distortion pedal and clean for the lows.

Adjust your strap height, see if that helps. Beer bellies deaden the body wood vibrations and waste all the tone in the wood, or something.

[quote name='gjones' post='745387' date='Feb 14 2010, 11:21 PM']From my experience of talking to sound engineers, they love bands that don't have a loud backline.[/quote] Loudest backline I've used belonged to the sound engineer.

I just programmed the driver into WinISD, shoot me a PM with an email address and I'll send it to you. It suggests 714 litres for a sealed box giving ideal response. Hmmm. Worked out your box plan is around 170L, which looks reasonable. The yellow line is a sealed box, looks reasonable, low mid bump bit like the GS cabs. The other line is 2 x 4 by 4 inch inch ports, big peak, gonna bee a bit too much. These are better for sealed. Bear in mind I don't have much clue what I am up to with this, BFM or Claber will probably come and berate me shortly.

[quote name='RIM Basses' post='745211' date='Feb 14 2010, 08:08 PM']Buy the way guys im defo uing the celestion bn15-400x drivers so if you fancy helping me with the best cab size and style for them thats great. I can build basses but I dont know where to start with designing cabs, gonna be using the ebs classic 450 when it arrives from the US. Cheers, Robbie.[/quote] Definitely figure out using WinISD. Trick is to model a cab you know you like, and use if for comparison, because people fuss about the fundamental frequency of notes far too much when just reading numbers. I modelled the GS412 (Eminence Delta 12LFA in 225 litres, tuned to around 40hz from memory) to use as a comparison when figuring a cab for Kappalites.

[quote name='karlthebassist' post='744961' date='Feb 14 2010, 04:49 PM']Ditto. Are musicians playing in covers bands in pubs not alowed big fat juicy amps with nice tone? [/quote] Is it that the pub covers band are expected to bring their own PA, so the investment should be in a PA that can deal with bass, rather than a rig that can hold its own? Seems like ok logic, although not convinced that was the meaning.

Bear in mind it will make the cab wierd, in that no-one has 2 ohm cabs. Make sure you tippex over the 8 ohm bit on the back. People blindly believe that even with a meter showing otherwise. Its parallel wiring you want. Kind of works if you think of it like fractions of an inch. The 8 ohm speakers are 1/8 of an inch. Stick 4 in a row and you have 1/2 an inch. 2 ohm. Get a resistance meter to check, it will probably come up not exactly 2.

That amp probably won't be happy with that cab. You could rewire the cab to be 2 ohm probably, if you were handy like that. Best getting another cab though.

Just cause places should have a good PA doesn't mean they do. Plus you need a lot more headroom if you mess with detuning and don't want to sound like Fieldy (sounding like Fieldy is banned).

[quote name='AlanP2008' post='744036' date='Feb 13 2010, 02:52 PM']As far as I can see from the spec sheet, the most significant differences between the 3015 and the 3015LF are: i) 3015 Xmax=5.9mm, Xlim=11mm, 3015LF Xmax=9.6mm, Xlim=17mm (the LF will take quite a lot more power at low frequencies before it cracks up) ii) 3015 sensitivity= 100.8, 3015LF sensitivity=98.4. (The LF is *good*, but the 3015 is *excellent*) The other point one might spot is that the 3015's on-axis response goes up higher, but as I have seen often pointed out here, the off-axis response (which is much more significant) is dominated by the fact that both of these are 15" speakers, and both will both need some kind of mid-range driver to give them any kind of off-axis top-end (ie. anything much above 1000Hz) at all (but your taste and/or style might not need that). winisd suggests that the LF will give a bit more bass extension than the non-LF.... but in the end, you pays yer money and you takes yer choice - they both seem to be excellent speakers for bass to me (as are the 3012s). Alan[/quote] 3015 is better than pretty much any other 15 for higher stuff, it is happy in a standalone cab, as I have experienced on the Barefaced tour. Using the LF as a standalone needs a crossover and a mid, because not only is it not great at mids and higher, but it is also kind of uneven (WinISD doesn't really show this, working on data from various people that have tested them) in its upper response, due to not being designed to accurately reproduce them.

If they want a sealed cab, stick them in a sealed cab, they just won't be very bassy. Good for a roaring valve amp though. If you want the ported option, go for the kappalite 3015 (nonLF). Or for the Doom option, build the Celestions into a sealed cab, and make another cab with a Kappalite 3015LF for epic bottom, and run a SS power amp into that, and rag a power amp into the sealed 2x15. This is pretty much my plan.

I asked him a similar question, got a slightly more sensible answer. Turns out he is not retarded, it was just beer. Although he seems to suppose I am Alfie (sorta fair): [quote]Oli, apologies if my answer was a bit off the cuf yesterday, I was super drunk when replying...anyway, the neck is un-adjustable now, unless you remove the walnut filler with a stanley knife or dremmel tool, it's more a peacock neck than anything else to be fair...It would look great as a spare or back up bass to have on stage, the neck was straight and played well before i removed it, i've no reason to doubt it would be the same when re-installed...once again apologies for my pissed up answer yesterday.[/quote] Fairly sure by 'walnut filler' he means walnut coloured filler.

Reckon you'll need to post a gut shot, the outside hasn't changed much ever.

Sounds cool, what are the Celestions? Gonna use WinISD for the port tuning?

First transaction was smooth and easy.

Figured it in the end, instead of running the (screened) pickup wires to the cavity and connecting everything there, ran them to the switch, and used a screened cable to return it. Tight squeeze. Probably the fiddliest wire up yet, humbucker, single coil and piezo on separate output, with their own volumes, to a stereo jack.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HARTKE-BASS-ATTACK-VXL-PREAMP-BASS-GUITAR-PEDAL_W0QQitemZ230436329070QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV?hash=item35a713566e"]Here[/url]

Model railway track cleaner for the fret polish, sandwich box of meths for the strings. Necessary when you use stupid heavy custom newtone strings.

[quote name='BottomEndian' post='740580' date='Feb 10 2010, 06:37 AM']That's nothing. The bridge looks like a prop from a ghost train: [/quote] Has this bridge collapsed in the middle?