Mr. Foxen

[quote name='petetexas' post='689179' date='Dec 19 2009, 04:30 PM']Hi, I have just got hold of a 4x12 speaker cabinet , and 4 Celestion BN 12 -300 S Neo magnet speakers. The internal volume of the cab is about 4.8 cu ft. Any idea what size and how many ports to put in ? Pete[/quote] For ports, 1 flared round one in such a position they you can't see the back of the cones through it is best. However it is not practical. Need to figure where you can put ports first. Download Win ISD to figure the right length once you have figured where you can fit them. I think the rough rule was a port aread of about 1/9th of the cone area.

I reckon you need to find a metalworker that know a bit about instruments rather than a luthier. I reckon helicoil inserts would be a good engineering solution for a Kramer neck.

Body swap wiht someone who wants a relic.

[quote name='Pow_22' post='686655' date='Dec 16 2009, 06:42 PM']Money is REALLY tight at the mo, thats why i bought this cab initially, it was cheaper than the Ashdown 4X10 i was looking at, theres a Marshall dynamic bass system 7152 400W cab on ebay thats quite cheap n they wil courier it for £40. Thing is i do have the BFC and also an Epiphone LP Std Bass that i want rid off so i might just go to the local music shop n see what they'll give me for them and use that against a new cab. Not havin much gear luck at the mo![/quote] Pretty sure you could do better than that plan on here in the trade section. Theres a bunch of Marshall DBS cabs at the local practice space and they all totally suck.

Put the 2x10s in series, and rag a valve amp into them, leave the Ashdown into the 15.

Get someone who knows about wiring to check it over. Probabyl somethign disconnected somewhere along the line. 300W is plenty. Just take it apart have a look.

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' post='685416' date='Dec 15 2009, 05:00 PM'][quote]The trouble you will also have is that it's possible to damage a speaker with a rating of 300w, by only giving it 200w. Your ears would have told you, but underpowering can be just as deadly as overpowering[/quote] Speaking of piffel... Absolutely, positively untrue. [/quote] First bit is sort of ok isn't it? You can break a 300w rated speaker with 200w, if that 200w is low enough to drive it past excursion limit. The under powering being damaging is the wrong part. If you are feeling voice coil rub, it has probably become distorted from becoming too hot, ur hitting something (thermal damage or mechanical damage).

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vintage-Fender-Squire-MIJ-Precision-P-Bass_W0QQitemZ270502021802QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV?hash=item3efb2d4aaa"]MIJ[/url] Not sure on going rate for these, but seems good.

[quote name='Shockwave' post='685186' date='Dec 15 2009, 02:01 PM']I have already said i was going to wait til the speakers bedded in. Probably going to run a few music files through it of low bass tones. Alex has emailed me to sort out some settings i can use to get the tone i want, like i knew he would![/quote] Fairly sure music playing is not the way to bed them in, too compressed and inclined to be very loud without really pushing the speakers. A 20hz sine in audacity and putting that through will make not much sound and need not much power to push it to xmax (as the speakers are unloaded that low) which is where tyou want is worn in to. Claber cab probably tell you exactly how many volts/watts that will take, although dunno how you'll find out if you are putting that into it.

[quote name='Wil' post='684747' date='Dec 15 2009, 12:44 AM']Literally above his head. I kid you not. Owning a flightcased Ampeg head will give anyone strong arms, mind [/quote] And Rob is an excessively tall dude, so that is pretty damn high up.

[quote name='jmsjabb' post='684170' date='Dec 14 2009, 04:52 PM']To kind of gate crash here. Do most cabinets have xovers in them? I have a single 12" which has no xover. Should I add one to stop it trying to out put too much low?[/quote] If you aren't shunting the signal off to another speaker, I think it is called a high pass filter. As simple as a capacitor and a resistor, would be good to include in cabs really. The tone pot in a passive bass is a high pass to ground. Only issue is power handling in a bass cab.

[quote name='Peter Rand' post='683531' date='Dec 13 2009, 11:17 PM']I won't be running anything at full range. The plan is to send highs to the tens, lows to the fifteens. Anyone else??[/quote] You'll still need to state what those 10s and 15s are, and what they are in. There is no way anyone will reccomend 15s other than Kappalie 3015LF for lows, so just pick a box volume and port tuning. I have no idea about 10" midrange drivers, but I think smaller ones will benefit you more. 10" speakers will start becoming fairly directional in the mids: [url="http://www.talkbass.com/wiki/index.php/Driver_diameter_%26_pistonic_beaming_frequencies"]Source.[/url] I think you'd be better off having a look at PA stuff for practical application of biamping, its more likely to be done properly there.

[quote name='Mandril' post='683272' date='Dec 13 2009, 07:28 PM']Wow! The T'Midget has the twitter in front of the 12 cone, right? Doesn't that bar affect the way the big cone sounds? Never seen a cab like that...[/quote] I think that would only block highs, which is probably a bonus, since people actually pay money for 'beam blockers' to stop that happening.

[quote name='Peter Rand' post='683268' date='Dec 13 2009, 07:26 PM']Hi. I'm about to try Bi-Amping for the first time, and will be building my own fixed frequency crossover (24dB/Oct Linkwitz Riley). My amps will feed 10" & 15" or 18" speakers. Can anyone advise me as to what frequency I should set my crossover point at? I'd be grateful for your comments and suggestions. Pete.[/quote] Depends what the speakers are, and what their enclsoures are. I think you can use WinISD for crossover modelling, although I haven't used the function. My current plan is to run my modern full range cab with full range, and tap off the stuff above 100hz to my bottom deficient 8x10. Probably won't help you much.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BASS-GUITAR_W0QQitemZ220526265562QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV?hash=item335863c4da"]Nother Kay, or the same relisted[/url]

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Westone-Concord-4-string-electric-bass-guitar_W0QQitemZ180445057353QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV?hash=item2a035d1149"]£50 Westone Conchord[/url] [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WESTONE-Thunder-Bass-Guitar-1981-with-HARD-CASE-MIJ_W0QQitemZ330386577496QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV?hash=item4cec931858"]Thunder with overeager bidders[/url]

Never seen a 6 string that worn. Musta taken practice. Oh, yeah, the playing probably took practice too.

One behind the other, means you need a less big box for the bottom, but it has the same max volume and air moving ability as a single driver. Totally not the first isobaric either, Ampeg did one, and its done in cars fairly often.

[quote name='Marky L' post='682799' date='Dec 13 2009, 09:15 AM']I just can't get my head around this valve volume/output thing. My small brain does not calculate 30W of valve being the same as 500W of SS. OK I get how if you drive tubes hard then you get crunch.. but how does 30=500? Help![/quote] Doesn't basically. 30w valve run clean is same as 30w SS run clean. However you might squeeze bit more than 30w from the valve stuff but it will result in a lot of (awesome) distortion and compression, whereas if you do it with SS, you get a lot of horrible distortion. Compression and distortion do act to make things seem louder (see Metallica record controversy).

[quote name='skychaserhigh' post='682795' date='Dec 13 2009, 09:10 AM']Maybe this cab is good at some frequencies and not others ? I've had cabs like that in the past. Is this not why the Big One has a smaller mid range driver to get those frequencies ? This is why i have used 10's for years ( some 12's too ) , as they give more punch across the whole range.[/quote] [Takes Cover] If you think a bunch of distortion is good (which it is, because distortion is Doom) then maybe the BF cabs are not as 'good'. Everyone secretly loves distortion, even if they can't admit it. If you love Doom so much, you should even have a G string, and the only D you should have is below bottom E. The Big One uses a different driver to the Compact, it is a sub driver that is better in the lows but deficient in the highs, hence the second speaker.

I have a tuner that will do same as tu2, split and mute one channel, I'll post ya for £22.50, the tuner part is a fairly crude LED affair, but its metal and seems tough enough.

[quote name='civictiger' post='682687' date='Dec 13 2009, 12:29 AM']so i literally just plug my bass into one of the inputs, and then have one output to one amp and and the other output to the other amp? is that really all there is to it? and also that will not damage the amp at all, will it? thanks so much for your help so far mate![/quote] Might wanna have some effects in the middle of one. Once you are onto the two outputs from the splitter, its two independent things, like if you had two basses going from there.

[quote name='civictiger' post='682660' date='Dec 12 2009, 11:58 PM']ohh, i see. okay i'll refer it as dual amping, then! and well I just bought a korg pitchblack.. so it would be pretty silly to buy a TU-2 just for that.. do you know of anything else thats specially designed to dual amp that you could refer me to? and yeahh i was thinking that, as the blend option on the pedal is there.. although i thought it did have 2 outputs, but i guess not hehe.[/quote] [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Art-CoolSwitch-A-B-Y-Box_W0QQitemZ110469331361QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Guitar_Accessories?hash=item19b87c39a1"]This[/url] or fancier [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TRUE-BYPASS-WOBO-ABY-Switch-split-for-guitar-amps-tuner_W0QQitemZ310187445195QQcmdZViewItemQQptZGuitar_Accessories?hash=item48389ccbcb"]one.[/url] TU2 means less on the board though. If you have two pickups in your bass, you can seperate them so they each have an output, thats the most versatile.