Mr. Foxen

The Firebass is a beast, you could blow up those cabs with it fairly easily, but they'll make horrible noise first. Just don't turn it up that far. Also, don't turn off the DDT protection, it will stop the aforementioned DC clipping blowing up your tweeters. Over powering will kill your woofers. Easy to move it not the first thing that springs to mind with that head and cab though.

[quote name='philw' post='641113' date='Oct 30 2009, 02:21 PM']This is my problem. Precision necks vary considerably between models, trouble is, apart from knowing that the Squire Classic Vibe 50s neck is too chunky for me, I'm not sure how the rest of them measure up.[/quote] Figure out which dimension you are concerned about, and ask people with them to measure up.

I find the neck on my Squier tele bass to be a bit thin for my liking. If the other one has a tele headstock and is chunkier I'd cheerfully swap, its a bit used, but has got a fair bit of birdseye in it.

Put a EHX Octave multiplexer before it and let your bass feed back and you get some nuts noises, if one frequency starts to dominate the feedback, the OM tries to drop it and octave, and the bassballs tries to shift its filter point, so the sound constantly changes.

[quote name='thedonutman' post='640979' date='Oct 30 2009, 12:16 PM']Why don't we get a newton meter, attach it to the strings on a few different basses and see what happens?[/quote] You'd have to fret the strings with it to get a meaningful result. Through stringing effectively makes the whole body the bridge, so is equvalent to a high mass bridge.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='640775' date='Oct 30 2009, 09:31 AM']Does infinite music mean music needs to be instantly gratifying?[/quote] This has already happened. Thing about music is, some people like it and put the effort in, to make it and to like it. Doom-drone is never gonna be instandly gratifying, and is generally lots of effort to get through, still exisits though. Can't make money on it, but people still do it. Some music is dissociated with market forces, so can't be lumped together.

[quote name='Sibob' post='641049' date='Oct 30 2009, 01:11 PM']The problem with any kind of custom strings, is that the bass might not be able to take them in both instances: 1) Go for super heavy gauges and they probably won't fit through the bridge[/quote] Taperwound and a top load bridge fixes that.

[quote name='Dubhghaill' post='640604' date='Oct 29 2009, 11:17 PM']That's simply not true. If you click my sample you can clearly hear the bass. Especially during the first two bars of cleans.[/quote] I can hear the harmonics, but not the fundamental. [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=474354"]Considerable discussion on the matter here.[/url] If you are actually trying to get below the sound of the guitar, its a losing battle, carving a space with eq is viable, but you can do that without detuning, and playing a standard F, and having a bottomier sound.

Bascially, low F is below nhuman hearing range, and far, far below the range any cab you can get will actually produce. You can get strings heavy enough from Conklin, or Newtone might do them. Also there is the Warwick Dark Lord set. But really, not a great deal to gain by doing it. I struggled to get a low A to sound how I wanted.

Nice colour match around the decal.

[quote name='umph' post='639075' date='Oct 28 2009, 02:00 PM']very tempted by the 8X10 anyone ever had a go with one before?[/quote] The 6x12 is beefy, was totally tempted, but totally don't have that money after buying the Orange.

[quote name='Lew-Bass' post='639048' date='Oct 28 2009, 01:26 PM']Wow, what are those grooves in the fretboard at the body-end? Also, how many pick-ups are under there?[/quote] Scallops for bending, like Sheehan's bass. Mine is this: With electronics fiddled with, stereo output, high cut on the neck pup, low cut on the bridge one. Stacked volumes.

[quote name='4 Strings' post='638925' date='Oct 28 2009, 11:25 AM']Just a quickie about matching speakers and amp power. Consider them like the chassis and engine of a car. A 10W amp going into 500W speakers would be like running a 10bhp go-kart engine in a 500bhp Le Mans racer. It will hardly move it. The other way round, a 500W amp into a 10W speaker will, like a 500bhp Le Mans racer engine in a go-kart, blow the thing to pieces at anything above tick-over. 10W into a 10-20W speaker gives enough headroom for safety without too heavy a burden and it will go like a go-kart. 500W into 500-1000W of speakers will fly like a Le Mans racer.[/quote] Don't think of it this way, read the rest of the thread. And check what sensitivity, and power ratings mean. And how the watt rating of speakers means absolutely nothing to the sound.

Problem with the 'science' way of seeing it, is that your are measuring the tension by pulling on the end of the string like the tuning peg, but thats not how you percieve tension in a string as you play it, where you are bending the string from straight to push it onto a fret. Fairly sure it's the increase in tension from doing that which you are feeling.

[quote name='lukertweek' post='638099' date='Oct 27 2009, 04:17 PM']Well... things changed quite a bit in the end. The cabinet turned out to be a mess upon inspecting it. My friend had told me he had it and that I could have it but it wasn't til I went to see it that I found out it was no good. He's not a musician, it was left in the garage in the house he moved into to so offered it to me as he would only throw it out otherwise. However, still needing a 1 x 15 I decided that with the help of the book "Loudspeakers for musicians" I would go ahead and build the box myself. So I ordered all the parts required from Blue Aran, next day delivery, they offer a great service btw. The measurements for the ported bass cab in the book were almost identical to the cab my mate offered as it turned out. So I decided to use 18mm extrior grade ply, which I purchased at B & Q. They offer a cutting service there which took all the pain out of getting panels cut to size and nice and true. I just gave the guy on the cutter the dimensions of each piece and he cut them all for me, easy peasy. he didn't even charge me which was a bonus. Then I got my baton timber and proceeded to knock up the box in me shed. I screwed the batons to the panels, first running a line of no more nails for added strength (have done a bit of construction in the past). eventually the box was complete. Didn't take long at all. Then I cut out the holes for the driver and port, drilled the whole in the back for the speakon socket. I decided on the Kappalite 3015LF driver after much great advice on the post, thanks guys. Once the box was all prepped I painted it with matt black smooth hammerite, it's very durable stuff. After that I was ready to load the dirver and finish off. Which I did. For the port I found that at B & Q again they sell telescopic pipe of the perfect diameter, so that became my port. Today I am going to tune it using that just sliding the inner part of the tube back and forth until I get the desired result. However, last night I tried it with my rig and to these ears it already sounded totally awesome. I'm well pleased. After tuning it's going to be a monster. I also put a capacitor in line on the positive side of the trace 1 x 10 combo so as to cut the low end to that. That way I don't get any farting from it when I crank the low end for the 1 x 15. I'll take some pics and post them when I get a chance. Thanks again to everyone for all the input. It made it a hell of a lot easier to do this. Much appreciated. Cheers [/quote] How does the LF driver sound getting full range signal? any funnyness in mids and highs?

Playing upright into a GS412?! Doom Tempted to call dibs on it if its going, so the House of Bass packs three of them, stacked on their sides 3 tall, flanked by the 8x10 and the 6x12. DOOM.

[quote name='cocco' post='637233' date='Oct 26 2009, 07:27 PM']Cheers for the quick responce man. What kinda values are we talking? And what is the socket to swap between? Sorry man I'm a complete novice at this :s[/quote] Totally don't remember what values ended up using, coulda gone a little bigger really, hence socket advice. Basically, its two holes and two legs you attach in place of the component, so you can plug a choice of them into it, to try stuff.

[url="http://www.freeinfosociety.com/electronics/schemview.php?id=476"]Schematic here.[/url] Replace C1 and/or C5 with a larger value to taste, put a socket in so you can swap easily. Credit to Umph who talked me through modding mine. Its dead easy inside.

[quote name='BassBen' post='637010' date='Oct 26 2009, 04:05 PM']£450 is alot for 1x15 bass cab. Anyone gigging one of these in a loud metal band? How does it cope? What head are you running? Cheers, Ben[/quote] Put one next to a Marshall 2x15, came out pretty far ahead.

[quote name='Jase' post='636998' date='Oct 26 2009, 03:51 PM']The Barefaced gear looks really good.....are they really that light?[/quote] The compact is ridiculously light. I had a chuckle carrying the nomad onein past the band loading out a peavey 1x15 between two of them, whilst I unlocked the door with a 1x15 in my other hand. Also, it was at the top of a few stairs into our flat, when Joe tried to pick it up to sneakily blow it up before I got a chance to try it, he fell backward down the stairs as he expected rather more resistance to lifting.

I'd say get a Vintage, cause I really need some of those hitting the second hand market in maybe 6 months.

I got that when I shorted the speaker. Check for a blown fuse inside in the general area of the outputs. Unplug it before you open it. Or I think you are near where Iam wandering to get my shopping, I'll pm my number, text and I can have a quick look, score fuses at maplins as necessary.

[quote name='BassBen' post='636847' date='Oct 26 2009, 12:52 PM']Thanks for that. So what ohms should the second cab be Cheers?[/quote] Aim for 8 ohm in the combo and 8 ohm 2x10. Might be bet getting a seperate head and a pair of 2x10s though, modular innit. Or a pair of 8x10s, and seperate heads for them. Cause they've got wheels. I like those Firebass heads, trouble was finding cabs that could deal with it.

I reckon make a whole new back with a port is the best plan. Can put the socket somewhere sensible, possibly with a speakon combo socket in it. In fact, instead of holes, make it not quite reach the bottom and put a shelf in, slot port, easy. Length of that shelf to be determined by WinISD.