Mr. Foxen

[quote name='Fraktal' post='622233' date='Oct 10 2009, 07:58 AM']After all, 10" speakers are only efficient when dealing with mid frequencies[/quote] Not true.

You can oil finish maple, teak oil will darken it a bit, but its not ideal. Usually maple is lacquered. PLentry of other options though: [url="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13575"]Finishing maple.[/url]

If you crank it up and lose your sound, could be your speaker disagreeing with being cranked, also, the room is different, which will change the tone. You'll have to learn to eq your amp to the room, and try and get your tone from bass and fingers.

[quote name='Balcro' post='622109' date='Oct 9 2009, 10:49 PM']Having heard one of these at the recent Mott concert, I was mighty impressed by the sheer drive of this gear. Reading between the lines, it seems to have circuitry that maintains the gritty overdrive sound even when turned down to low volumes. Maybe a trip down the A1(m) might prove interesting. I'm sure they can oblige if money is no object. [url="http://www.blackstaramps.co.uk/products/seriesone/index.html"]http://www.blackstaramps.co.uk/products/seriesone/index.html[/url] Balcro.[/quote] Do they do them for bass? Too many knobs and channels on that, although no idea why someone would want a 200w guitar head.

[quote name='JTUK' post='622028' date='Oct 9 2009, 09:06 PM']I agree tone rather than volume is the most important end result. You wouldn't buy a cab on any other basis, surely..?[/quote] Not everyone is running huge awesome cabs. So there are factors other than tone.

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' post='621732' date='Oct 9 2009, 03:34 PM']Ask on my forum, we have members in the Netherlands.[/quote] Why not link your forum and website in your sig?

So if I fill my sealed cab with [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tungsten_hexafluoride"]tungsten hexaflouride[/url] I'd get the lower response of a larger cabinet. But I'd have to keep it above 17 degrees or it would liquefy and my cab would implode. Maybe Sulphur hexaflouride would be more sensible. It does the same trick on your lungs:

[quote name='alexclaber' post='621605' date='Oct 9 2009, 01:59 PM']No, that's an old idea that has since been proven to be incorrect. Alex[/quote] Got a citation on that? Wanna present it to the speaker designer at AVI, who told me it, as well as other stuff I know not to be true (my amp wasn't worth fixing because it didn't have 'Marshall' written on it.

Does packing the cab with stuff (not just covering the walls) lower the speed of sound and make the cab respond as if it is slightly larger also?

[quote name='tayste_2000' post='621553' date='Oct 9 2009, 01:11 PM']Pics?[/quote] Serial no. PA002.

Buy my Orange PA120, I need to pay council tax.

[quote name='stevie' post='620889' date='Oct 8 2009, 07:20 PM']I'm sure that's what the boutique builders of lightweight cabs would like you to believe, but putting a bit of bracing inside a cab is not very labour intensive at all. Have you seen the inside of the lightweight Trace cabs? They are braced like nobody's business.[/quote] There is glueing in sticks and there is proper pre-stressing and tensioning. Stuff I mostly read about in small aircraft making books, light and stiff is a very important thing in aircraft.

[quote name='fenderiko' post='620809' date='Oct 8 2009, 05:47 PM']So , if there are such materials and techniques to make cabs lighter yet sound brillinat and still be big then why arent most of the cab makers dont apply the same idea ? if one can make an amp sound good through a light but big Cab then how come the rest of the makers arent doing the same ? as I mentioned before , surly that would win many of the clients out there ,( getting a big looking cab yet lighter ,,,)[/quote] Labour intensive and don't lend themselves to mass manufacture.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='620717' date='Oct 8 2009, 04:24 PM']100W valve is low. 300W is hefty. I do think that there's more to it than the power rating though. The impedance of the Compact doesn't swing any more than a really high quality old 15", the kind with magnets that weigh as much as a small horse. But the cheap speakers that tended to be used in bass amps have much smaller magnets and therefore much lower peaks at resonance and weaker cone control - the former is easier for a transformer coupled amp to drive, the latter gives more bass from a lower powered amp. Alex[/quote] So is the Vintage happy with a 50w valve head? What other factors are significant? And when you say running out of power, will that mean clipping and valve drive sorta sounds? Cause JoeGarcia was loving a 100w valve head into the Compact and he is all about filthy valve drive sounds.

[quote name='tayste_2000' post='620702' date='Oct 8 2009, 04:12 PM']Fair enough but on that, the Matamp 4x10 sounds alot better than the EA one did, I'm not aware of the volumes (not loudness) of the cabs as the Matamp is deeper but the EA was wider, both are ported cabs. I was always under the impression that density of wood had a large part to play maybe this is what you mean by rigidity but if the sides of a cab are vibrating heavily then energy is being expelled sideways and not straight forward like we want, maybe this refers the rigidity. I was at a gig and some guy brought some home made mdf and chipboard cabs and they were rigid, I could jump on them if I wanted, they were big and quite light but the back flapped forwards and backwards like a speaker due to the thin wood used there, but all the while still rigid (as in square and you can stand on it without it collapsing)[/quote] Flapping backward and foward = not rigid. Weakest link is the back, pressure is equal in all directions, and thats where the energy is lost.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='620673' date='Oct 8 2009, 03:50 PM']One thing I've found with the Compact is that it doesn't get on very well with lower power valve amps - they seem to struggle with the impedance curve of the high forcefactor motor and consequently run out of power long before the Compact really gets going. Use a heftier valve amp, a powerful solidstate amp or a pair of Compacts (which ups the efficiency so the amp doesn't have to work so hard) and it's an entirely different story. So yes, the amp makes a HUGE difference! Alex[/quote] What sorta outputs are you calling low/hefty? And how far either side of nominal does the impedance swing in a Compact compared to an oldschool ceramic type speaker?

Work on loads of peoples instruments at home, have none of those non slip mesh mat things on the table for most stuff, some tweaks on action and stuff I do in the playing position/on my lap, as thats where it needs to be intonated right. Oh, when I'm moving a truss ron I generally hold the body between my feet and knees to be able to pull the neck into place whilst turning.

Cheaper to make a cab out of few bits of thick wood than labour intensive bracing and pre-stressing and such with thin wood. Plus heavy cabs give a impression of quality, and possibly less inclination to take a wander when rocking them.

If I only used one cab, I might as well be playing ska. One 4x15 is insufficient.

[quote name='bigthumb' post='618166' date='Oct 6 2009, 06:56 AM']Is there any Australians here who would say that this is a good price or not? I for one think its a bit OTT. Lets see if it sells or not.[/quote] I bet Crazykiwi really loves it when you call him an Australian. Maybe ask him.

Drop tuning is dropping the bottom string relative to the rest, so you end up with intervals between strings from bottom of 5th, 4th, 4th, 4th. Detuning is when you move the lot. Guitards like drop tuning because they can play their beloved power chords with minimal effort. On bass it mostly messes with your positions and makes your bottom string sound weak. Most important thing about detuning is having strings man enough for the job. My bass in ADGC is strung .145 to .070. Then you need amp and cabs man enough for the job. Bass just needs the right setup, and not be shortscale I guess.