Mr. Foxen

[quote name='alexclaber' post='563007' date='Aug 7 2009, 07:11 PM']Absolutely! Like I said earlier - tone and string excursion are inextricably linked. Bigger lows require bigger excursion unless you lighten your touch. String excursion is inversely proportional to tension so heavier strings or higher tuning or longer string length will help. If you don't want higher action then you'll have to lighten up with your plucking hand. And I'm not suggesting you go to high action - there's a lot of different actions in between ridiculously low and high! Alex[/quote] Lies! There is high action and there is guitars. Do you really want to be a guitarist? Lots of thin strings and a low action?

Can do plenty of guitar fixing that I need to, and learn by rebuilding trashed ones, I want to expand my skillset to amps, as I love tinkering. Is it a good plan to learn in the same way? Get myself a multimeter and read stuff on the net surrounded by amp carcasses? I've bought a couple of 'dead' amps on ebay to fix, and found some pot cleaning and a fuse is all they need. Didn't teach me much.

Bad workman blaming his tools. Work on your technique. Learn to play upright. That will sort your finger strength and intonation.

[quote name='richrips' post='562865' date='Aug 7 2009, 03:49 PM']which 2x10 plans would you recommend? i'm using a 1400watt crown power amp with a peavey alpha tube pre and would like a combination that is light but makes the most of the power? i like the reviews i've heard of the bn10 300x. seems to offer a decent bass response for a 10" driver. thanks to everyone who has replied, there really is an amazing wealth of knowledge out there! cheers, rich[/quote] with 1400w you don't need to make the most of the power, it can be madly inefficient and still be loud, but you are going to have trouble getting 4 10" speakers that will cope with that much power without farting out. Issue is using the power rather than making most of. Shiny new 15s and 12s have got the best capabilities in that respect.

Think the OC3 has some sort of drive knob in one of its modes, not sure what the mode equates to though.

Watch ebay, or post a pic, its probably some sort of standard connector for something.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='561229' date='Aug 5 2009, 03:33 PM']Does that mean it's old school and vintage? Or just not doom? Alex[/quote] Note my sig. Is Doom, in that it is obselete and unlikely to make you popular.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='561161' date='Aug 5 2009, 02:05 PM']We are now befriendable at: [url="http://www.myspace.com/barefacedbass"]http://www.myspace.com/barefacedbass[/url] Oooh, modern. Alex[/quote] Dude, Myspace is old news.

Pretty much all of mine are carved up. I was once very pleased to sell one of my assembled basses for slightly more than the parts cost me. Can't be dealing with standard stuff.

How about this power amp? [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/QSC-PLX-1602-Light-Weight-Power-Amp_W0QQitemZ300333807569QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_MusicalInstr_Amplifiers_RL?hash=item45ed4a37d1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/QSC-PLX-1602-Light-W...id=p3286.c0.m14[/url] Also, I think if you go for that much power in valves, I foresee a sale thead of nasty pointy basses entitled 'I need to revalve my amp'.

That Aguilar DB680 on Ebay + the Crown power amp in for sale. Ticks all your boxes for knob twiddly, valve preamp, and lots of power.

You're links are bust.

[quote name='WithoutRisk_BassPlayer' post='558029' date='Aug 1 2009, 07:35 PM']I have a Fender Stu Hamm Urge 2 and that has strings through body configuration and I use Rotosound RB45s. Theyre an excellent string and not to pricey either.[/quote] Aren't Stu Hamm's basses 32" scale? Or is the 2 full scale?

[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=55974"]see here.[/url]

[quote name='BassBunny' post='557762' date='Aug 1 2009, 01:28 PM']You beat me to it. I know Steve quite well and it is cracking kit he has there. You can take the neck off as often as you like then.... [/quote] I beat you both to it. Fairly sure I can get the screws and inserts a whole lot cheaper if a bunch of people want to do that. I used allen (hex) head ones for exctra convenience, since a set of allen keys are much handier than screwdrivers.

[quote name='velvetkevorkian' post='557393' date='Jul 31 2009, 07:58 PM']I have wondered about this but don't [i]believe[/i] it to be the case- surely if you are correct lighter strings would be louder, since amplitude= volume? I do stand to be corrected however... [/quote] Going via magnets though, the amount the string disturbs the field is dependant on mass moving through that field.

Overkill way is have metal ferrules set in the neck and use machine bolts. Can't strip them. Did it on my franken jazz and it was beasty. Might not have such a 'bolt-on' tone though.

A mate managed to blow up his Peavey by running most of a PA off it at practice, the trip went, here is his drummers (my ex drummer who forgot his kit to a gig)'s account: 'the power transformer was red hot 15 minutes after the amp transistors had cooled down but even after that had cooled, still no go and we bypassed the trip we removed the connectors and, erm, connected them :)' His suggestion to fix being bypassing the trip that had tripped, then wondering why it still broke.

[quote name='chris_b' post='556988' date='Jul 31 2009, 11:46 AM']Ampeg built isobaric cabs and they flopped. As Alex says, there are no benefits that outweigh the drawbacks. If you've got any money to spend on these cabs give it to me. I have much more sensible things on my shopping list![/quote] Or, buy the Isolvent cab anyway, and give it to me. They are 'Foom as Duck'.

Don't they all lock together with allen keys?

The isobaric cabs should agree nicely with the huge wattage. There aren't very sensitive but have lots of bottom for a small size (if you like your cabs they way I like my ladies). Damn, I sound like a sleazy Claber.