Mr. Foxen

and 8 ohm and a 6 ohm should be happy with an amp set at 4 ohm. Not sure they'd balance out too well though. Think they are super nice cabs, and its beat up, heading toward Doom, not there yet though.

Aaaargh, balls. I was watching that and thinking of giving up my programmable.

Blown fuse, inside, on a board near the speaker outs, probably a big 5 amp glass one.

Not sure VT bass has the output level required, but I've just run a BDDI into a 200w Matamp power amp and it cheerfully farts out my 4x10.

Neck pup in EB position. Awesome.

Having got some WinISD time it, I've figured a suitable plan for the nad rattling lows I was after is to stick a pair of 3015LF drivers into a cab about the size of my 8x10 (thus making a pair, using the 8x10 for distorted higher stuff) and porting it appropriately. I know a chap who can do the build at a good rate (and is a fellow bassist to boot) but I could do with some plans to send him to give an idea of the wood required. I could measure up my 8x10 and draw it myself, but I'm fairly sure the internet will know somewhere (and leave my time with 8x10 for noisemaking).

Kind of want the 8x10, don't need it though. Plenty of old valve amps are fine for both guitar and bass, I've accumulated a fair collection without spending vast amounts of cash. Plenty of fine amplifiers suffer from have the wrong name written on them, the Carlsbro in trade is an ideal example. Speakers are a bit different between guitar and bass, definitely not gonna get the right sounds using the wrong cabs either way, unless you have one of those super clean cabs and a modelling preamp/power amp deal going on.

[quote name='beerdragon' post='531909' date='Jul 3 2009, 06:45 PM']I bought one of these. it's err... chunky! but i can do something with it. ok for the money. [url="http://www.dangleberrymusic.co.uk/p-498-dr-parts-maple-precision-bass-guitar-neck-21-fret-replacement-neck-with-maple-fingerboard.aspx"]http://www.dangleberrymusic.co.uk/p-498-dr...ingerboard.aspx[/url][/quote] How chunky are we talking? Telebass chunky? Been looking for something as thick as the necks on those cheap Johnsons, but with a sensible shaped headstock. About an inch thick fron to back, and pretty much baseball bat shaped.

[quote name='BottomEndian' post='532336' date='Jul 4 2009, 11:23 AM']Oh, and Foxen... Vintage = Doom.[/quote] Now that I have it at home and no-one can snatch it from under my nose, I can reveal why I was asking about alternative colours. Claber, can you do the Vintage in green with a white cloth? To match this: I think it should match nicely with the Vintage.

Not interfering with the next tuner somewhere?

I'm in Bristol, fairly sure there are a few Basschatters here itching for a go. Vintage will be Compact but more so right?

I'd like one of those 24x5 fridges, not sure if they are Doom though.

EHX valves are gainy and grindy.

[quote name='john_the_bass' post='529399' date='Jul 1 2009, 10:13 AM']And if anybody can offer any suggestions on how I remove the speaker from the cab, they would be welcomed. I have removed the screws but the bloody thing won't budge. Trying to run a fuel loyalty points club card underneath the edge of the speaker frame results in destroying the card![/quote] They are well stuck on, I pryed the 12 out of my combo with a screwdriver. Satisfying crack/pop sound.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='527724' date='Jun 29 2009, 01:48 PM']Definitely one of those things where you have to find the right balance of compromises for yourself, to get the tone, feel and playability you want. I've always been annoyed by a lack of consistency between the string tensions, particularly the looseness on the lower strings. My final solution has been a 36" scale (which gives almost exactly the same tension as if you tube a 34" scale up a semitone) plus 38-58-78-104-134 nickel rounds. I had been looking to get 40-55-75-100-130 which would be even closer to balanced tension but have yet to find those gauges in nickel round non-tapered that's long enough. If you like the sound of thinner strings but don't like the slackness then a longer scale can work wonders, plus it adds more sonic size to those thinner gauges. Alex[/quote] Why not get Newtone to make you custom sets? Isn't all your other kit top end or bespoke? Surely strings are the first thing after your fingers.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Antoria-Japanese-jazz-bass_W0QQitemZ330341023684QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV?hash=item4ce9dbffc4&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A10|66%3A2|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50"]Antoria[/url]

[quote name='umph' post='525996' date='Jun 27 2009, 03:20 PM']i don't understand why people need 400watt valve heads[/quote] Dude, not Doom. Probably bottom endier sound with the down tuning, but you need lots of cabs to really take it, suspect most running 400w of valves doesn't have the cabs for it.

[quote name='BottomEndian' post='525358' date='Jun 26 2009, 09:26 PM']Let me guess... black = doom? [/quote] Mysteriously stained = Doom. Actually, I am trying to figure some white binding on black to match my other stuff to an extent, but I might have a Matamp, which will make horrible loud colours the order of the day.