Mr. Foxen

[quote name='alexclaber' post='514198' date='Jun 15 2009, 02:08 PM']Just find some big old 1x15" boxes, cut some bigger ports, tune them to the same frequency and stick some 3015LFs in. And add a load more bracing on the inside. Weird old horn cabs won't work but old ported or sealed ones are certainly usable. Alex[/quote] Doom Might measure up that 6x10 for a new baffle, that would be sort of ideal. does winisd have the 3015LF data in it now? I was missing one stat last time I tried to use it. Or a couple of 10" sub drivers? Any that are any good? Block the other holes/port some and a few good 10s should do low right?

[quote name='escholl' post='514143' date='Jun 15 2009, 01:27 PM']pfff, just get him to make a special "doom" version for you out of thick heavy plywood with a rusted grill. ^_^[/quote] That would be like relicing. Gotta find a cab, in a skip, floating in a swamp, that is overlooked by a ruined church, with a bell tolling. Also, an owl, hooting at you. Haev a dude in mind who would make a BFM titan for me, he played bass in the 60s/70s and had an Acoustic rig, so think he'll be a good dude to do it. Monies though.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='514085' date='Jun 15 2009, 12:46 PM']Coupling the mouths won't help as the path length will still be too short. Horn subs work well in fixed installs because you can design them for a long path length but small mouth and then corner load them (only quarter mouth size required compared to half space) or if you need enough SPL to use lots at once in which case the mouths add up. But if the horn path isn't long enough then all the mouth area in the world won't do anything for you. I guess if I were doing a Barefaced doom rig then I'd bridge a big power amp into one or two Big Subs and then run a smaller valve amp into a Midget. That would be scary loud and deep and thunderous yet as dirty and mean as you like. Alex[/quote] Coupling them as in necxt to eachother or at right angles to eachother with a board bridging them bolted to the top? Can't actually find the reference to doing that now, but I read it when I was looking up the earthquake subs the speakers were originally made for.

[quote name='escholl' post='514117' date='Jun 15 2009, 01:07 PM']all while being lightweight and portable too ^_^[/quote] Not Doom.

It's still the wrong impedance and the wrong mounting holes just like it was then. Since then I've found the Eminence Omega pro 18 is suitable for resstoring the cab to its original function, as its reccomended for restoring old Acoustic cabs to giggable. Its going to give a nice warm rumble like them, but not the nad rattling I'm after, it would seem. Gonna do that for now, wear in the speaker and see if I can trade that lovely vintage stack for something modern and vast. Or get another one and couple them as they are supposed to be.

So one of those BFM jobs looks bunches like what I'm after, but there is no way I have the space to be making one. Non sound considerations are being about the size of an 8x10 so it can sit next to it on stage. If I stick a modern sub driver in my W horn cab, is it gonna give me a bunch of lows, even if I have to eq it in (this sort of appeals as the sound of that cab alone is a useable sound, but the speaker is on its way out, due to age)? Will putting full signal into something designed as a sub damage it or just fail to make the higher stuff into sound?

[quote name='Alien' post='513270' date='Jun 14 2009, 12:56 PM']This should do you... [attachment=27016:BIG_bass.jpg] A[/quote] That's the sort of thing I'm after. Those BFMs? Totally don't have the workspace for making stuff, but were up there in the considering.

[quote name='escholl' post='513261' date='Jun 14 2009, 12:43 PM']the spacing of the harmonics differs, and so even if you can't hear the fundamental, your ear will synthesize it when you hear it. even alex's cabs are going to have a much lower sensitivity down at 30 Hz (and so are your ears, for that matter), most of what you will hear of the low A will be the second and third harmonics at 50 Hz and 75 Hz -- by filtering the frequencies below 30 Hz before the power amplifier stage, you will save a lot of amplifier power and unneeded speaker excursion, which you can then use to drive said speakers even harder in the range you want.[/quote] I am familiar with this, but the idea is the sound is a bit beyond what you are hearing with ears. If you seen Sunn O))) or Asva, a lot of it is about your whole body feeling the sound. The concern is when I'm playing a there'll be some 31hz there but much more 62 and 124 etc, but when I go down to the A, there'll just the the 50hz 100hz etc., so its as iff I carved off the very bottom. Those frequencies aren't there for your ears. I'm fairly sure my bass puts out a stringer fundamental than most as octavers track it really well, and when I'm putting it through a little cab that isn't taking the lows, there is a definite point the sound is lacking, even if the note is clear and the speaker isn't farting, which I guess is the natural low roll off.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='513210' date='Jun 14 2009, 11:34 AM']I'd bridge a power amp into one or two Big Subs. No point bothering with a head when power amps get you more power for less money and the extra internal volume per driver of the Big One/Sub adds a lot of sensitivity in the lows. I'd recommend a power amp with high pass filter set at somewhere between 30 and 40Hz, that way you can push the cab(s) really hard without the driver bottoming out. Alex[/quote] I'm using a low A, with the fundamental at around 25hz, so if it cut below 30, would myA lose something compared to my B, as suddenly a fequency is being dumped from the bottom? I'm aware you can't really hear that fundamental, but wouldn't it be a bunch like playing an A an octave higher? I have an old folded horn, but it needs a new driver, part of the reason for this thread is to explore the other possibilities with my monies. Pushing lows into it rattles it out, but with a modern sub driver it might be better, but it also might not really be ideal, shame cause it looks totally the part. With previous band only played two gigs with a PA that it was worth putting any bass through, always had to run off the backline. Claber, could you load a vintage with the 3015LF drivers so its dubby and a one cab tall solution?

This is an options exploring thing, so no real budget considerations, can save up, and sell off. This would be ideal: Maybe PA subs are the way, but I kind of want it to be a stand alone sound on its own.

I'm still playing really loud really low stuff, so I'm looking for a rig that gives me a lot of bottom at a great deal of volume. The higher stuff I'm sorted for, my Thor head into my 8x10 is quite sufficient for that. Its the bottom end element I need to sort. Currently I am borrowing Joe Garcia's Sunn 1200s and Aguilar GS412, so some seriously nice kit, and that does what I'm after, but it ain't mine. What other option do I have in that style? I want to vibrate you eyeballs in you head so you hallucinate. I would ideally like a rather simpler head, maybe a LH1000, or Mesa 400 (valves are a favoured option, although I don't think they are necessary) and a Barefaced Vintage, possibly with the Big Sub 3015LF style speakers.

The cheapies aren't flat and have ridges around the holes and edges that can mark your bass, the good ones are ground flat on the back.

Elixirs will keep you in the middle. Try soaking them in meths instead of boiling, doesn't age the metal so much.

Bought my old OHM GA140 head. Picked it up, cash, sure he'll have fun carrying it home on foot. Easy transaction.

[quote name='iamapirate' post='507675' date='Jun 7 2009, 07:21 PM']yeah I mean, I wasn't actually really going for it, it was just that they had been thinn'd at the bridge so that it could improve sustain i think and cos it was thinner and was thru-body string'd, then thats why it snaped.[/quote] Strings with the thin part at the bridge are no less string, the core that takes the tension is still the same, the windings take to tension and are just there for weight. I've still never broken a string. It's all about having enough amps that you are loud enough.

Some of the old heads were dual purpose anyway. I use a valve guitar head into a 8x10 and its beasty.

Heaviers doesn't mean less bright, mostly means more everything.

Is it high pitched noise? Might be a tweeter in one and not in the other, Peavey tweeters have sounded dreadul in my experience and are generally switched off.

Not really worth it, can't do 8 or 4, and the Firebass is easily powerful enough to fart out a couple of 4x10s at 4ohm (done it).

I've found boards that have never been oiled can soak up loads of lemon oil, and get loads darker. I had one that had hung in a shop window and faded to grey, used danish oil on that, as reccomended by local luthier.

I sent a message asking what became of the tele neck as I'm after one. 'Hi and thanks for your interest. Afraid I haven't got the neck any more went to a fellow bass player. Regards'

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