Mr. Foxen

The cost is in the buffering, generally, you can get a transducer mounted in various ways, but the complicated part is the preamp/buffer. A cheap transducer in suitable form and a nice preamp seems to be the way to go. I've fitted a cheap piezo bridge to a guitar, to go to a nice preamp, and its main guitar for a fairly big/award winning folk guy. There is much less going on internally with piezos, and the aim isn't generally colour, so variation is much less than magnetic pickups where people expect a tone from them.

Fancy old stock ECC82 are pretty easy to come b y cheaper than new ones.

Think the theme is Orange use drivers for their watt ratings rather than their suitable for electric bass bandwidth.

I found the Orange OBC115 very dark, kind of the hold up example of why people think 15s are just for low end.

[quote name='Jack Cahalane' timestamp='1368586432' post='2078890'] I have a lot to learn it seems, I was under the impression that 15s were only good for lows? [/quote] Anything that classifies sound in inches should be ignored. If you want proper technical info in reasonably easy to read, here: http://barefacedbass.com/technical-information.htm In short, ignore speaker diameter and avoid mixing various different cabs on one amp.

Isobaric cabs are massive fail, good to ignore them. One good 15 could well cover all the territory your paired cabs did before.

[quote name='LiamPodmore' timestamp='1368578414' post='2078877'] Shouldn't have any problems using that combination at all. I expect it might sound rather nice as well, but nobody knows that unless they've tried it. What Mr Foxen above me says is true though. A pair of vertically stacked 2x10s will be better than a 4x10, but people still use 4x10's and like them so... Liam [/quote] Think is the 4x10s heyday was along with heads with graphic eq, and other active mids, whilst the Orange EQ is a throwback to days when cabs did midrange, and pretty much nothing else.

Probably work fine, but might be able to do better on a cab. 4x10s are kind of obsolete, and neo loading them only goes so far. Since the Orange terror eq is mid cut only, you need midrange from the cab, and the 4x10 layout isn't ideal for getting midrange to your ears.

I think Roland actually aimed to make a good practice combo, others bit more stick their badge on a small amp, knowing it will sell some.

Ha, physics is different for Ricks.

Don't mention the marshall, BG10T-150 is enough, since those were OEM in my Ashdown too.

Get a pick of the neck 'heel'. That is the danger point, and the source of shifting neck issues.

Means the bass is worth putting nice transparent pickups in it. And eq on the amp is the enemy of good tone, basically, its there to compensate from problems, to 'equalise' them to the ideal of flat response to the right sound. Bass is step one of your signal path from your fingers, getting it right there means all you need to focus on is not messing it up with everything else.

[quote name='waldflote8' timestamp='1368530478' post='2077994'] Hello and thanks for the welcome folks, No probs on the truss rod warning, I had a lot of relief ??, probably about 5mm. (by using the string as a straight edge) So I'd reckoned they would need adjusting and gradually did that / straightened out the neck ,.. is currently virtually flat and my action is about 6mm on the E string, which is fine now for me to play. I used a screwdriver type tool as opposed to a right angled device (eg. socket set) in order to limit the torque I could apply,.. and tweaked it over 3 days with the strings down a semitone. I reckon on having it at a point now where I can let it settle and play for a bit, before re stringing - happy to use lighter ones,.. 40 - 100s ? I do like a very low action though and have no buzz at all currently,.. so thinking that I can go a bit lower. That is the problem though, the bridge is bottomed out and the two height adjustment grub screws are sticking right out (not keen on that either as it will be like a magnet to my hand and guaranteed to get me at some point ) I don't want to take a lot out of the saddles - break angles etc. - but that would seem to be my only option at the moment. Luckily I am virtually there, but I am at one extreme of the bridge adjustment range,.Wondering if anyone else had a similar experience ? thanks [/quote] That's the cautious way for non rick necks. With Rick necks you need to set the neck in the right place externally, then tighten the truss rods on to that. Otherwise there is a risk of S bends in the neck and such. Taperwound strings might help lower the action some without messing with mechanics. Main thing is finding the source of the high action, is there a crack where the neck meets the body?

I used it with a low A. Fairly sure they have a bit more handling than 60s speakers, even if the tone is trad. Lots of drive going on to get lots of thickness from that middle bit. Plus can let the subs do the work and not mess with them with loads of sub onstage, which I have been assuming is why the 8x10 is a standard big stage accessory.

[quote name='apa' timestamp='1368521756' post='2077881'] Id rather have one box. Suppose I could use two of the speakers and flog the other two. Hmmm [/quote] Put flightcase latches on so you can lock them together, then you can enjoy all the pain in the nuts of one big heavy cab at will, and still divvy up in suitable moments. [quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1368532412' post='2078031'] If that's the case they're really not well suited for electric bass. [/quote] I've used a cab loaded with them, not much going on very high or low, but enough in the middle bit to work fine as a cab. Fairly sure they benefit from bigger enclosures than a small 8x10.

Two boxes. Pair of 2x10s is best.

[quote name='apa' timestamp='1368483502' post='2077719'] Isobaric is a bad plan as far as these speakers go because of the travel? Just downloaded WinlSD cheers Ill have a play. (Although they dont have these speakers in thier list [/quote] Isobaric is just a bad plan ever since speakers stopped needing to be in a car sized box to work properly. Only advantage is you can sell someone with space for a 1x12 two speakers instead of one, and then sell them another when they find the 1x12 max volume isn't enough, and I guess you aren't that much of a shyster

Isobaric is a bad plan, they don't have much excursion as it is, and isobaric mounting will halve that which is available to move air. Fire up WinISD and figure a couple of 2x10s you can stack vertical. Edit: googling the speaker got me back to myself, asking for one of these for my Ashdown ABM8x10. So probably happiest in a sealed cab, but bigger than the compartments in the 8x10.

[quote name='lastnotleast' timestamp='1368472877' post='2077544'] What speaker/cabinet is best for this third, seperate, low frequency only application? [/quote] As per the manual: a subwoofer.

Is that a low passed output? Find out where the low pass is, get a subwoofer suited to that range. No point in low passing into a cab designed for fullrange. Really, high passing a cab so they don't interfere with the lows is the better way if you insist on mixing cabs.

[quote name='Tweedledum' timestamp='1368381610' post='2076343'] (the 120 Mark 4 I had awhile ago was a noise monster). [/quote] The noise in them can be sorted, its a combination of old caps, degrading resistors and dirty earth connections. Sorted about a dozen now.

Oh yeah, this thing will do the louder part: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Marshall-2001-all-valve-tube-amplifier-400W-vintage-1980s-6550-kt88-/140975222474?pt=UK_MusicalInstr_Amplifiers_RL&hash=item20d2c72eca Lighter not so much.

[quote name='Beedster' timestamp='1368395868' post='2076663'] Ha ha, know where you're coming from Steve. I love the Boogie but don't need 200+ watts of tubes. I've really struggled to find a decent low power all-tube setup, they're either too small, like the Ashdown LB, or too big like most of the Ampeg, Mesa etc. I'm pretty convinced it's going to have to be a B-15 eventually. [/quote] Loads of 100w valve amps going, just get one with decent sized transformers and a recap.

Treble roll off is the taking the nasty off the top of fuzz. The tone/feel is distortion and compression (compresion is also a form of distortion). The VT covers both of those, it simulates the power section too, you don't have to use it driven, jsut a lot of the knob sweep is degrees of driven, don't be afraid to have it down.