Mr. Foxen

What music do they listen to? No good making sounds that don't sound like the music that you are interested in. Steel strung and a good set up if going that way, proper set up means easy playing, most beginner steel strungs are dreadful..

[quote name='Ashdown Engineering' timestamp='1368267261' post='2075059'] We do not give gear to artists... We may loan the odd rig here and there when required but generally speaking if someone wants to use Ashdown and be an artist we insist they put their hand in their pocket. [/quote] Could ya send me one of the big valve jobs for techy review?

Manufacturers are kind of stuck with the need to provide eq to people who don't know how to operate it, hence the flat setting not being in the middle, so their amp has 'a sound'.

Clean cab, Sansamp VT, power amp. SVT sound, portable, limitless headroom as determined by the cab and amp part. I'd suggest a Barefaced cab opf appropriate size and a Peavey IPR power amp to go with the VT.

Not all Ampeg 8x10s are the same, they changed to dark speakers to boast bigger numbers at one point, end up with a dark sounding cab, still with no lows from being small and sealed. Plus the sensitivity is the same as a Barefaced Compact, and that is pretty lame. Basically, any sealed cab is not going to have much lows, just be sure when you say 'lows', you don't actually mean 'midbass' or 'low mid'.

Sounds like you don't like the cabs. Go for neutral sounding cab and use the eq for tone is the way if you like using EQ. Should never be fighting cabs with EQ. Cabs with a sound are for when you don't have/like using EQ.

If the preamp is high enough impedance, should be able to run it just like another pickup. Putting a buffer in between isn't super complex anyway.

http://www.yorkshirepost.co.uk/news/around-yorkshire/local-stories/rare-instrument-to-take-centre-stage-1-5659914

With piezos, the impedance load on them is really important, needs to be really high, so would need to check the impedance on the preamp. I've jsut used a piezo bridge, and a Super hard on style buffer.

Yeah, that's that transparency thing. Whatever you put into a Marshall, Marshall comes out. If there is a problem with the sound through a transparent amp, then the problem is at source, rather than the amp.

Should run it through a Hiwatt, I know he has them. Transparency is a better showcase for a bass.

90% sure a passive three band tone stack is going to be too lossy to use in a guitar without some active gain added somewhere.

Gain factor of 100 is different thing to 100%, 100% wouldn't be very much. Basic valve testers aren't super expensive, come up fairly often, I ahve a spare one, only not stuck it up for sale because I have one I'm used to using and two with better features, but I'm not familiar with, not committed settings for common valves to memory etc. They'll tell you if the valve is basically right, and amp plus ears should do the rest.

Ruby are rebranded whatever, most I've seen are Shuguang, you can get Shuguang really cheap. I have to bin 2 or 3 from every 24, probably same thing Ruby does.

Most 15s will be dead at full power from the amp at 4 ohm.

Volume doesn't really relate to watts, chances are the 8 ohm kappalite will be louder than whatever was use before, they have high sensitivity. Almost certainly no benefit in a 4 ohm cab with a single 15.

That's a solid state head so an 8 ohm load will be fine.

Switch sides so the speakers are closest together. And put the other cab on end, so speaker is higher, closer still that way.

Some stuff is going up. There is a drop in the prices stuff gets on ebay as soon as the weather improves.

Look like different cabs, and not crossed over, so bad parts are mixing cabs, an splitting low frequency sources, but its probably not far enough split to cause issue, and angles means better mids monitoring, unless the split makes a mess right at ear level, better have them as cclose together as possible, so they act as one across biggest frequency range, and use matching cabs.

Basically, the more control you give people, the more they'll screw it up. Its why sound engineer is a job. And why forums are covered in 'I cut all my mids but I still can't hear myself, do I need another kilowatt in my rig?' posts.

I don't recall seeing much hate for Ashdown here. Ashdown do turn out bunches of cheap amps, they have Ashdown on them, they are just as responsible for them as they are for the expensive endorser models. Orange are definitely overpriced rubbish aside from the Bass Terror though.

How much loss is there in that circuit? Would think you'd need a bunch of makeup gain to be viable.

[quote name='polyrythmmm' timestamp='1367924002' post='2070993'] Apparent volume of tube watts versus SS, and how this manifests itself in the arena of driver calculations... ? ... [/quote] Watts are watts, voltage is voltage, so apparent volume doesn't figure into driver calculation. The reason valve rigs sound louder than SS for a given wattage is down to bandwidth limiting (less lows so less power needed, leaving it for the important stuff for hearing), compression (very top peaks are lower, so louder on average), and harmonic distortion (added harmonic content adds impression of loudness, and bigness to the sound without needing more power).

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=181136081961