Mr. Foxen

The body wood thing is agathis vs. alder, so its eww that sucks vs. 'Fender use it' which is probably a big difference in many minds. I'm all for the second hand first instrument, no fear of chipping before you can appreciate 'mojo' that way.

Are they split or solid shafts? You can squeeze the split in a bit often, just done that on an Eros LP copy I was restoring.

Slice of washing up sponge with the scourer torn off under the cover.

Wow, this is being conclusive. My punchiest bass is a peavey 5-string with through body stinging, big heavy body and passive humbuckers. Taperwound strings might be a factor in this case. Think my pre butchered Westone Thunder will get the punch experiment treatment. Once I have a neck sorted, drop a bridge position MM humbucker in it, see what that does.

I used spade connectors in my little combo so I could switch to external output to my big cab. Seemed to works, was tempted to do the same inside my bass, but decided I'd prefer burn marks all over it.

I got a large bone from the butchers, left it to the chickens and ants for a while, took a saw to it, dried out the piece and filed it into a new nut. Course I was unemployed sotime wasn't much of an issue, just get a new plastic nut from the shop, about 50p (my local shop sold me two Graphtec ones for that, think they didn't twig what they were), and a needle file. Is it a sit at the end of the board nut, or a sit in a groove sort?

I'm thinking of starting up another project bass, based on a jazz body most likely, I'm looking for a real punch in the guts sort of sound, my last project was built to growl and sustain, which was pretty successful. So, what gives the punch? I've been told bolt on neck, light bridge and light body, and MM style pickup. Anything to add, experiences, details, philosophy and luthier voodoo, etc?

I have an EB180, 15", its the one with a proper needle dial rather than the led one, and it pauses when it starts up so there is no pop.

I decided to change the nut on my generic P clone, its was some soft stuff that my detuner sawed through. Also too soft to shear out by bashing the end, endedd up pulling with pliers and took a chunk out of my fingerboard too. Balls. Clamped and glued now. This thread is a reminder to take my time filing the graphtech one.

It says Fender in the description quite a lot, so if it ain't report him up real good and see if paypal will refund you.

[quote name='BigRedX' post='93108' date='Nov 23 2007, 12:28 AM']To cancel out the noise they have to work as pickups which IIRC means they need magnets. I checked and the 'pole pieces' are not magnetic at all. They look like the coils from a Dimarzio humbucker (they've got the allen key slots). I think they're supposed to work as either bass filters or bypass...[/quote] I'm not sure they do need to be magnets, hum is induced by a fluctuating magnetic field, whereas string sound is from the metal string moving in the magnetic field. You can pick up hum in leads and stuff if they aren't shielded, so magnets aren't needed.

I thought neck through was what I was after, but I got a Peavey neck through (I only tinker with cheapies, cause I can't help carving them up and modding) and just didn't like it. Made me much happier with my bolt ons. Fitting inserts and machine screws on my favourite bolt on is the next plan.

A nice lady on another bass forum called the number on the ad, she didn't get through, left a message and forgot all about it and went gardening. A bit later her kid came out the house saying 'Larry is on the phone for you'. She didn't know who he was till he said , and chatted about the new amp they had coming out. I heard it first hand so I think its pretty darn cool.

[quote name='The Burpster' post='89841' date='Nov 17 2007, 12:26 PM']Whilst picking my brain and working out what I could use for fret polishing that wont give my thumb cramp ( I usually use a Dremmel round rubber polishing wheel profiled for the fret wire) ...... I had a flash back to (very) younger day and model trains..... Bored with my local music shop, I popped to the local model railway shop.... and like the holy grail there it was.... PECO part no. PL41 track cleaner. Like a big 'old fashioned' pencil erasure but ligthly impregnated with polishing compound.... £2.50 and will last many many final fret finishes .... Enjoy...[/quote] Ha, I actually came up to my room to find my one of those, I'm fixing up a Squire for someone and thought I'd give it a once over.

If you aren't taking loads off then the whole crowning thing, which is probably the most time consuming part won't matter nearly as much. The difference fret crowning makes to intonation I've never found to be a problem, never had anyone notice my flat frets from my first refret putting my intonation off till they look, and then they get know-it-all on me. Broad flat frets transfer more sound to the wood or something due to greater contact area, sounds like some tone talker fudge excuse. If its just the forst fret or two, are you sure it isn't the nut that is too low?

Is it a ferrule? Anyway, someone had a loose one on some cheapy guitar, I put a strip of paper in the holeand pushed it back in, just a bit more thickness to jam it in, seemed to sort it. If the the screw itself is wobbly, rub candle against it then heat it up so the wax melts in the grooves before you screw back in, makes it feel tighter.

I've not had much maple time, but when I did, I disliked the feeling of lacquer under my fingers. I prefer rosewood, lower maintainance, easier to refret, so worry about wearing through, I can cheerfully file the fret ends, this is mostly considerations cause I a bodger, so if you are getting a nice bass its proably not very applicable, unless you like steel stings on nickel frets and play in such a way that will wear them out and require a refret.

I read, but don't do it till someone confirms they will take blame, that you can check speakers are in phase by touching a 9v battery across the jack , and if they don't all stick out or all suck in its wrong.