Mr. Foxen

[quote name='ashevans09' timestamp='1361110783' post='1981141'] I'm not really that au fait with the physics behind cone dynamics and waveforms and stuff [/quote] Don't worry, Emperor aren't either. Making the cab broader negatively effects dispersion, so the cab gets beamier. Putting the speakers off center in the baffle has a positive, but small, effect though, as it evens response a little from the effect of the baffle, central would mean twice the effect from the symmetrical sides, whereas off center spreads the error out a bit so it has less effect.

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1361013807' post='1979721'] the Eminence 3012HO which is not an ideal bass guitar speaker despite Mr Foxen's eulogy). However, they may work better in practice than expected - and I've never used them personally. [/quote] Have heard them, sound awesome.

"Equivalent" doesn't mean much, this kind of dates from when everyone 'knew' a 15" speaker had a sound from it being 15", so equivalence might be no more than that.

Doing that is a whole new circuit sort of job, and won't make it sound like a B15, there is so much more going on. Pretty much all of the idea of a Baxandall eq is that it is flat in the middle, thus isn't a tone consideration unless you tell it to be.

What are you hoping to achieve?

Something I've spotted a couple of times is guys using multi way cabs with mid drivers, and just the woofer is miced, which is going to pretty much ensure just lows making it to the PA. A senior bassist mate went to see Nathan East play and that was going on, bass solo you could feel but not hear.

TAD I've seen appear to be rebranded Shuguangs, so bear that in mind when you look at the price. Less chance of a duff one is what you are paying for, but you can send duffers back if you buy from a sensible place.

Other option is build an enclosure suited to another available driver with known specs, and if that one doesn't work, you can put a driver you know will work in there.

If you use a high pass filter its safer. But simultaneously saying they don't know the properties of the speaker and also making recommendation as to what to do with it doesn't fill me with confidence.

[quote name='bluedoughboy' timestamp='1360702007' post='1975132'] How do I fix that sir? [/quote] Soldering the broken join.

Clean, punchy and warm? Punchy and warm have a tendency to come from various sorts of distortion, unless your bass is punchy and warm at the output. Both of those brands include amps with large amounts of control, so if you can work the controls, you can do those things.

Sounds like dry joint then. Sound vibrates it enough to make contact sometimes.

What are you hoping to achieve?

[quote name='noelk27' timestamp='1360669585' post='1974169'] That's a Greco, most of which were manufactured by Matsumoku and FujiGen. Not a lot of "plywood" produced by either of those factories. [/quote] The black forearm chamfer says its not solid wood, might be block sandwich.

Dirty pot, or a leg of the put pulling free of the pcb and being resistive. Does it feel loose?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pTXnVlX62fw

Got it. Going to look into making them.

[quote name='longtimefred' timestamp='1360684043' post='1974600'] i thought of that, does plonking your cab on an empty box create any unwanted boom or make it sound crap at all? Its just i have never seen anyone else do it to hear what its like. Maybe a good option if people think its fine to do so.. [/quote] Only downside is hearing more top end can mean you hear the crap sound you are making that you didn't hear before, its a big issue with guitarists.

The board mount stuff needs resoldering, fairly easy job. Ashdowns are made sensibly so you can do it. I've done quite a few of them, better to do it early before it causes other problems. Same issue happens with anything with controls an jacks mounted on pcb, which is most modern stuff. Ensuring the muts on the front of the amp on jacks and sockets helps stop it happening, but ones it goes, it needs to be soldered. Whomever cleaned the controls should have sorted the actual problem since getting at them to clean them involves the same opening the amp as fixing it.

[quote name='jaydentaku' timestamp='1360672200' post='1974237'] thanks for that. Additionally, the orange bulb light isn't working. It was intermittent at the gig on saturday and now nothing. Not best pleased, plus, Orange have yet to reply. [/quote] Its a car type bulb, so auto shop should be able to sort you

Best valve would be a used tested vintage one from, uh, someone.

Gut feeling is a vented enclosure isn't going to suit that at all. Really massive sealed box for any low, and even then not much, or small sealed box and use it for nice mids with some speaker breakup.

Gotta have a tweeter? The speakers in the BF are reasonably bright.

Get Winisd pro alpha, rather than the beta non pro, it does more stuff. Seems people go for the beta one when they first get it for whatever reason and it doesn't work quite the same as the one everyone else is using.

[quote name='brensabre79' timestamp='1360601430' post='1973123'] Record a bit of your bass playing, clean, and straight into the desk (no amp, or anything). Play it back through the head and record the result. Then make the change, and play the original recording through it again, all settings the same and you can analyze the results. [/quote] Polarity flip one result and overlay them, then you can isolate the difference part. That's always interesting.