Mr. Foxen

Mesa are keen on making stuff look like they put more thought into it than they did. Being ported will make it more likely for bass to break it that a sealed cab, but if you eq to sound like a guitar, might be fine. I'd be happier with a normal sealed guitar cab for that purpose.

http://www.e-sue.co.uk/recent_work.htm I won a very nice bass that just happened to have its neck broken after I won it at opening bid. Told him no prob, I repair guitars pretty often. Lot of back and forth and I got it, was pretty annoying. With people doing dodge bidding and cancelling, I just block them from bidding again when I see it: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/181272-blocking-problem-ebayers/

[quote name='BassBus' timestamp='1360524137' post='1971781'] This might help you understand Ohm's Law. Taken from a post somewhere on the net in a forum, might even have been this one. [i]"The best description of ohm's law I read talked of it as two hose pipes. If you are trying to squeeze water through a 1cm pipe it can only flow as quickly as that pipe can take it, the resistance. If you then attach another 1cm pipe along side it you have twice the flow rate and half the resistance. Therefore, an amp that is rated 500w at 8 ohms can only push about 300w of power through to an 8 ohm speaker. If you connect a second 8 ohm speaker you reduce the resistance to 4 ohms and are able to use the full 500w".[/i] [/quote] Problem is signal from amps is AC, and the rated impedance as nominal, so it doesn't work nearly as well in practice when applied to speakers. Especially anything to do with watts, since the watt ratings on speakers started off a bit irrelevant.

[quote name='headofire' timestamp='1360523514' post='1971762'] You could look out for a b15t, that's the 80's tranny ones they don't go for much and you'll get a decent 15. I actually like them for little gigs but they aren't that loud. that would be good with your head. Nothing like the valve ones tho. If you want to build a flip top...You could get pretty close if you look out for a burman power pack and use a sansamp vt bass pedal. The power packs are 70s 100 watt slaves, very good quality amps and they look similar inside. I used to use one like that but with a boogie V Twin. [/quote] Pretty brutally massive slave amp for the purpose, plenty smaller that will do the job. The Power Pak is so hifi I'm not even sure it will have tone advantages over VT into a solid state power amp at lowish volumes.

[quote name='afterimage' timestamp='1360528574' post='1971909'] Interesting to read about the Reeves and Mywatt. Amps. Very faithfull representations to originals [/quote] The Mywatt pictured in another thread was pretty far from the originals. Reeves look better.

Is the Orange jsut amking a nosie sometimes but otherwise works? And the trouble is with two cabs/being on the 4 ohm setting? The ohm settings jsut shifts the internal limiter so no scenarios where it can cause breakage without extreme volume. Open it up and check to see if one of the caps has exploded.little battery looking things, one might have popped off its cover and ejected what looks like a roll of soggy carboard,, if it went really well, might just be bulging if not.

Bear in mind that WinISD is good for up to 200hz, the rest is up to the chart, and lining the box right and such.

I've put one together for Shockwave, part are all nice enough. would be easier if all from Warmoth so compatible, had some fun fitting accumulated from elsewhere parts to it, which would be a bunch more of a pain for someone not so equipped for it.

If it wasn't for the butchered headstock, would have had this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ARIA-PRO-II-aria-pro-2-sb600-super-bass-600-vintage-80s-bass-guitar-MIJ-/230926568630?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item35c44bccb6

[quote name='umph' timestamp='1360370447' post='1969657'] 0.003% seems really low! [/quote] Stuff don't sound good till you pass 10%.

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1360371364' post='1969665'] Just off to bed but OK then. I'm not sure what sort of sound a Berg makes so if you find me a link to a good recording or you or someone else can describe it I'll be able to get close. If you can find a frequency plot that will be perfect. In the meantime there's a 12" speaker that is a real gem for bass that I actually use when I'm not DI'ing, the Beyma SM212. [url="http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=BMASM212&browsemode=manufacturer"]http://www.bluearan....de=manufacturer[/url] [url="http://profesional.beyma.com/pdf/SM-212E.pdf"]http://profesional.b...pdf/SM-212E.pdf[/url] Why would I go for this? well Xmax is conservatively 7mm, tht's how far the cone will travel without distorting. This means that you won't lose output because the coil has left the magnet gap at high power. 2. there's good output up to 5,000Hz so there's plenty of top end there without a tweeter. This is done without a huge peak in output at 1-2kHz that a lot of the Eminence designs display. (not necessarily bad but it does colour the sound.) 3. Fs is lowish so you'll cover fundamental bass down to 40Hz 4. Qts is 0.38 which makes it relatively easy to tailor the bass to give a flat response. 5. It is nicely made with a cast chassis, sensitivity is OK too The only problem is that for a 12 it does need a fair size box ideally. The sound with bass is pretty open and clean sounding, you hear the strings coming through nicely. Bass is clean and deep without being boomy, just well controlled. Because of the excellent top end response you hear lots of detail too but without the Eminence cone break up the speaker doesn't add too much character of its own. I'll talk you through the Eminence and Fane ranges and try and predict strengths and weaknesses for you tomorrow. I've used both quite a lot but nothing matches the Beyma at this price point at the moment IMO [/quote] Out of stock mind. Not spotting them anywhere else with half arsed effort.

Thought you wanted two? That driver does as much as two of any of the others. including sensitivity. So it immediately halves the work on box making, as long as sound is what you are after rather than having more boxes. Doesn't really matter what driver so much if your goal is more boxes. Its pretty far from the most expensive driver too.

Get some charts, charts are good.

[quote name='6v6' timestamp='1360362693' post='1969532'] Well there were two mentioned earlier in the thread, the eminence kappa pro 12A and the Fane 500-12LF. [/quote] Dead link on the Fane site for the spec on that one. The Eminence will be quiet and dark though, pretty far from classic SVT but maybe similar to the 'bad era' ones where they used unsuitable speakers that were really dark. But they are both 12s, so if that makes them sound the same to you, knock yourself out. Good driver to built a box around: Kappalite 3012HO.

[quote name='Warwick_Official' timestamp='1360360648' post='1969505'] Actually, we are using an entirely new output section, that is not an IcePower module. And unlike our other Class D amps on the market we offer a genuine 1000 watt output at 4 ohms. Most other Class D amps use the IcePower modules, which are either 125w @ 2.7ohms or 250w @ 2.7ohms. [/quote] Bandwidth and THD? Got any cabs that can deal with 1000w broadband?

BFM cabs sound pretty far from trad. The XF guitar cabs would do prob OK for bass if you want really oldschool bass through a guitar cab with not much power sound.

Don't think there are any single speakers that handle near to 500w, but Kappalite LFs get fairly close, the ones that will need a midrange to sound normal unless you want reggae/dub tones. Tube heads need sensitivity, because of the low power, that's the only real consideration. Vintage voiced means not much, but the classic ampeg sound is the sound of guitar speakers with barely any power handling and breaking up, no bottom end, midbass hump. Speaker diameters determine the size your baffle needs to be to fit them in, and that's about it for this purpose.

[quote name='6v6' timestamp='1360339411' post='1968996'] Sorry, I don't understand this comment - ceramic speakers are much much cheaper than their neo equivalents, for example an Eminence kappa pro is around half the price of the neo equivalent kappalite models. The ceramic comment means I'm deciding that I'll sacrifice light weight in an effort to get something which still sounds good and will cost me less than the same cab built with one of the popular neo drivers like the 3012ho or 3012lf. I've got no preference of magnet material, I'm just keen to try this DIY experiment without speculating £400 on two drivers, effectively ruling out neo models. If I go ceramic I'm estimating I can probably get two pretty good drivers with 3" voice coils and big beefy magnets for ~ £150. Is my thinking totally wrong?! Well I was just comparing the Fane driver with one of the Eminence models I'd been looking at - same power handling, same voice coil diameter, same/similar magnet size. If you mean specs as in thiele small parameters, I never claimed anything was suitable for anything, nor did I compare specific parameters (although I noticed the vas was similar so they should both work in a similar sized box right?) I'm not claiming any great knowledge of cab design, but for reference, I have built several bass reflex cabinets in the past (quite a few years ago to be fair), done t/s calculations for volume and port tuning, and those cabs sounded pretty good, so if I get a good, bass-guitar-appropriate driver I'm hoping this won't be a total disaster! Anyway ... back to my original question, can anyone provide any first-hand experience of off-the-shelf, relatively inexpensive (less than £100 each) drivers which will work well in a stacked pair of fairly compact 1x12 cabs, or maybe a vertical 2x12 configuration. [/quote] Voice coil and magnet size in themselves are meaningless, neos basically demonstrate that. Kappalites and Kappas aren't equivalent, the Kappalites, you'd need two or three Kappas/additional midrange drivers to be equivalent to the capabilities of a Kappalite in terms of SPL sensitivity and sound. The suggestion of two boxes means you can probably equal the capabilities of the two witha single neo loaded cab, but it all depends: you need to start with what you want to achieve in terms of sound, if it doesn't need much spl, then you can get away with not much power handling, if it doesn't need any highs/uppermids, then you can get away with an LF driver. All that is established is weight isn't much issue, and cost is, neo capabilities can be better across the board, not just in terms of weight.

My grans 3 bar electric fire puts out a lot of watts. Isn't very loud though. That is how much watts mean.

If you start specifying ceramic, you are already asking the wrong question. If cheap is the aim, ask for that. If you know enough to understand the specs, then you know how suited something is for a small enclosure. Needing to ask means you probably don't understand the spec, so don't use them as a point of comparison.

There are dirty mods for them, fairly sure will apply to bass one as well as guitar ones. They'll drive if you put some boost into them.

A vintage amp that is fixed right won't need much maintenance, its just there are a lot of bodgers about, and a lot of people too tight to pay for a proper job to start with. My Hiwatt is still on pretty much all its original parts aside from someone beat me to having all the nice valves out of it.

[quote name='Prime_BASS' timestamp='1360094699' post='1964816'] Sounds good, although the big barefaced for dirt a bit OTT??? no? [/quote] Its much lighter than my other options of guitar cabs. Plus it isn't for dirt, its for a whole guitar worth of sound, both rigs aren't necessarily playing at once.

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1360093660' post='1964795'] No idea what a 70's Hiwatt bass amp would cost today, but it would be the one I'd look at if I was interested in that sort of thing. [/quote] I'm after £1100 for my 70s 200w PA, does fine for bass, didn't want to carve it up to make a bass head of it, probably get cheaper if someone actually wants to sell it, rather than tokenly putting it up for sale to justify having it about.

And the bias adjustment. Aside from the internal similarities.