Mr. Foxen

Had a lefty acoustic sat around for a while. My crude guitar skills translated fairly quickly, like I could do the 3 open chords I have to hand right handed, left handed in about a week. Would probably me much more frustrating if I had some actual skills.

Any cabinetmaker should be able to sort it.

Don't like that there is no comments on them now, its useful resource, and means seller can come back to the same question loads of times instead of it being asked/answered in thread (as in possibly by someone else with the knowledge).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CdxvVNlRiKs

I've got tons of old valves and a tester.

Says been up for 22 days, probably gone and hasn't figured how to pull the ad.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-isCMSaFZA

Watts don't break cabs. Stupid breaks cabs. Ask him if he's stupid, if he says 'no', you can assure him in that case the cab won't break. That's science.

Never been through to Malaysia when I've called. I've been sent £45 of ebay vouchers total since I started calling them.

Sort of says the issue is with the output to the computer. If it is the XLR and that is board mount, I'd do the soldering there, its a fairly chunky item to be board mounted.

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1353315926' post='1873433'] Crackling is likely to come from damaged pots or connectors, poorly soldered joints or cracks in the circuit boards or from the breakdown of components with electrolytic capacitors going first usually but not always. there are safety issues and you would need to check the power supply caps are discharged before fiddling around inside the amp. there are several thousand connections inside the amp and resoldering all of them is more likely to end up with you creating other problems especially if there are surface mounted components. You will need a specialist soldering iron with a very fine tip and thermostatic temperature control. You can often find the fault using a freezer spray but even this is a moderately skilled job, if you can read a circuit diagram and can solder then fine but if not you will probably struggle. It depends upon you, if you are happy to spend long evenings learning loads of new skills then what have you got to lose, if you want an amp that works then you will have to pay someone who has spent the long evenings learning this stuff. [/quote] Ashdown ABM stuff is simple inside, proper boards, would guess their digital mini ones will be surface mouth stuff.

[quote name='tauzero' timestamp='1353276097' post='1873245'] Why do sellers constantly mis-advertise Squiers as Squires? Especially when it's written on the sodding headstock... [/quote] Autocorrect.

Does it still make noise if you keep playing after its off? Doing that will use most of the juice in the caps, it will be low voltage anyway. Mostly if its off for a while it should be fine. Valve amps are the ones that educate you.

Finding the cracked one is hard, soldering is easy. So reflowing all the possibles is the easy way. Happens a lot on amps with board mount stuff, and those are the symptoms. http://ampstack.wordpress.com/2012/05/21/ashdown-electric-blue-150/

So cracked solder, on the legs of some board mount stuff. Resoldering it all should fix it.

+1 on just getting the passive one. Should end up enough aside for a good fret job to bring it up to level too.

Not designing them, and making them anyway, is easy.

[quote name='SlapbassSteve' timestamp='1353244327' post='1872899'] Agreed. That and the chap in the states that buys new Fender basses just to sell all the parts separately. [/quote] Nah, he's dead useful for all the Squiers I have.

[quote name='Rick's Fine '52' timestamp='1353194134' post='1872696'] I agree with the post above that makes reference to all the junk seen when searching for 'Fender' on eBay, especially all those customized pickguards with photo's on, sometimes there's thousands of them, you can go through pages and not even see a guitar!! [/quote] Need to use the categories option. Just a result of so much stuff being on ebay. I wish there was an ignore seller option so I could lose that amp covers guy.

I linked mine in my sig, on various forums. I have sold 2 cds off the back of it.

I had the Precision styley, and with all Wilkinson hardware, there wasn't really anywhere to go with upgrading it.

Recall loads of people being after one of these a while back: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trace-Elliot-SMX-Dual-Compressor-/281025486022?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item416e6c9cc6

[quote name='mickthebass' timestamp='1353176156' post='1872472'] [size=4][color=#000000][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]Still we have established once and for all that through body stringing is not a way to tell the difference between a U.S.A., a Mexican, a Japanese or a squire, Precision style fender bass? Have we?[/font][/color][/size] [/quote] It never was. and if it was a 30 year old Squier, its worth more that many Fenders now.

Actually, I thought of a better answer: Because buyers assume that being Fender makes it better.

[quote name='simonc61' timestamp='1353177549' post='1872501'] According to the bumph here [url="http://www.presonus.com/products/AudioBox-USB"]http://www.presonus....ts/AudioBox-USB[/url] it's 1200 ohms (balanced) [/quote] That will likely be an issue. Pickups need a higher impedance to work right, guitar amp inputs are generally in the region of 1 MΩ. And going higher tends to make things sound better (which is the idea of impedance buffers like the Zvex super hard on).