Mr. Foxen

100.5 is enough. Its the LFs that are unsuitable.

[quote name='alexclaber' timestamp='1348755438' post='1817782'] (apart from the SPL being halved!) [/quote] SPL halved sounds like a massive deal, but it isn't perceived volume that is halved, it is just a bit quieter. I'm sure Alex knows this, but I can totally see people reading that in disbelief thinking its half volume.

'Fender' tuners.

Check the sensitivity. Need to know which Kappa it is.

Not much point worry about watts on the speaker, sensitivity and the high output are the important bits. Valve watts are no different, jsut have a more limited passband, which helps the speaker even more.

Important thing to remember about ohms law in this context is that the nominal impedance of the speaker (the 8ohm rating) isn't even close to its actual impedance for the most part, which varies across the range of frequencies it is expected to handle, and some of that variation is dependent on the cab, like having a big peak dependent on the port tuning and such.

Sometimes, Gibson players wish they had a Wishbass.

Throw up some tone examples so have something to work with.

I kind of distrust Ampeg as a company running off its legacy, its lengthy list of endorsers being the people who's gear you are paying for when you buy one of their products. With limited space to fill, might do well to look at the nicer end 1x12s, the Aguilar GS cabs are pretty nice, but have the same gap between woofer and tweeter. The Barefaced 1x12 is probably bit middly in comparison, which is more my bag, and you can eq in some more lows, but it will go loud enough, the Compact is the 1x15 and is probably ideal, if not overkill. Do you need a tweeter though?

If its about looks, then matching Ampegness is the important thing, and the limitations of that cab in terms of max volume won't be an issue. Not heard one, but it mentions a LF driver and has a tweeter, so it probably has an octave or two gap between teh driver roll off and the tweeter, which might not sound ideal.

Looks like someone requested something. Worst review I've seen looked fairly pro and such, it was a Hovercraft amp, but the entire review had the contour set to an extreme that scooped all the mids out so everything he did sounded awful.

Why bespoke? Pretty much all the good ones are mass produced, and pretty much all bespoke ones are copies thereof.

When you say 'deep' do you mean through the finish? Might to well to start with a t-cut and polish.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGXGpa458Ig because slapping is drums.

Waghorn has always been really helpful with my builds, used to have him do all my routing, proper enthused about making guitars. But I was thinking of just woodwork places. There's a joiner/cabinetmaker I used to pass a lot along Cheltenham road I always considered going and asking Kitto Joinery I think, but its basically pick somewhere suitable to you, phone and ask if they can do some minor sawing for some beers or whatever.

There are lots of woodworking places with a bandsaw about you could probably ask to borrow, or do the cuts for you. People get enthused about guitar stuff sometimes and are really helpful.

Affinity series I've seen are wood, but not sure what series the Indonesian made ply ones were. Those were proper nasty, might be the starter set Squiers. Don't think you cna tell construction by brand, too many things fall under each brand. Stagg stuff I've see has been a good base for modding. The Vintage V4 I had was a pretty uninspiring mod project, because it already had nice hardware, so hard to think of anywhere to go with it. Edit: what's going on with the action on the Bas Extravaganza?

[quote name='paul_5' timestamp='1348426052' post='1813499'] Phosphor Bronze will make your sweat turn green though. [/quote] Its pretty corrosion resistant, its what then use in parts of the inside of brass instruments to resist breath and spit. Its plain copper than greens you up.

Nuts do have an effect on fretted strings also, but the significance thereof is a taste call: http://www.edgeguitarservices.co.uk/rout_serv/nut_geom.htm

Well cut nut over badly cut nut makes more difference that a metal nut vs another suitable material, like bone or hard plastics. Plenty of bad material nuts about though. Phosphor bronze is about the ultimate because its hard, and self lubricating. Ali is probably a bit soft and makes your fingers go black if you touch it much, although that depends on the alloy.

Sometimes I come across people that say 'I've been playing guitar for 20 years', and it turns out, the best thing they have to boast about from that 20 years playing guitar, is that they've been playing guitar for 20 years. They aren't looking down on you because you are 19, they are looking down on you because you dress stupid, and can't grow a beard, and are probably on their lawn, like all the other young people.

Means its worth changing that one to see if it fixes the problem. In itself, ringing when yo tap it isn't an issue if you aren't in the habit of tapping your valves whilst playing., but it can get bad enough to cause problems, had one new one that was bad enough to feed back on its own when you turned the volume up to sensible playing level.

Fairly easy to check, plenty else in there to make noises though. Valve changing is easy.

Watts tell you nothing about a cab, and very little about an amp, so best ignoring them, and anyone who stresses the importance of the relationship between the two.