Mr. Foxen

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1347796902' post='1805024'] I think my assumption has been that the extra downward force on the bridge would create a better connection to the body of the Bass, allowing for better sustain by helping eliminate errant vibrations which would dampen sustain. I would worry about the break angle though, I think having the strings run from the end of the Bass, instead of from the back, would be better. [/quote] The degree of better depends how bad it was previously though, its hard to get through strung wrong though. Break angle depends how far the through part is from the saddles, I like the through body then over a tune-o-matic style.

[quote name='paul torch' timestamp='1347796548' post='1805016'] I guess for me it would be less about compliance and more about tension. A couple of years ago I switched to short-scale as my hands were starting to feel the ravages of time. It works really well for one of my bands but the other band has always tuned down a semi-tone which makes the E string feel and sound like a flaccid elastic band. I thought that the string-through method may have offered a solution but it seems I may have to come up with something else. [/quote] You don't feel tension, you feel compliance, so for a given tension altering the compliance will affect how the string seems to play.

[quote name='Pinball' timestamp='1347796478' post='1805015'] Why would I want ot sustain for ever in any case? [/quote] Once you get a note sounding good enough, you don't feel the need to change to a new one so often.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rockinbette-bass-guitar-/170910593310?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item27cb10b11e

Since strings can slide over the witness point at the bridge, free string length before the fixed anchor does affect compliance, and a length of string is another resonant thing, so there is effects from it being there, tension stays the same but compliance is the thing you actually feel. Plus it effectively makes a high mass bridge from the whole body, as opposed to something like a BBOT where the saddles can move side to side slightly. So the difference between through string and a flimsy bridge might be noticeable, but likely in the same was as a chunky bridge and a flimsy one. Pulling strings through various holes can damage them a bit so isn't ideal.

I'd guesss that is more due to trademarked names than the sound though.

You'll likely need a crossover and a midrange for a not dull or weird sound from a 3015LF. The 3015 not LF works pretty well in a Mag 15 cab though.

The tech21 stuff avoids directly saying what they are modelling for the most part.

[quote name='skidder652003' timestamp='1347711617' post='1804225'] ive got another 15 (an ashdown) but its a bit wooly when they're togeather (and a pain to shift) so i though a good quality 210 would give me a bit more punch (ideally a warwick 211 to go with my warwick 115). [/quote] Could well also be wooly with a 2x10. Best way is always going to be more of the same cab you do like the sound of for the same sound but louder, rather than piling up cabs you don't like, which just gets messier.

Make sure the wires between the contacts and the cone/coil aren't touching sometimes.

Here's a related one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-BLONDE-WOOD-BASS-GUITAR-MARKED-FENDER-GREAT-SOUND-/370649702526?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item564c71a07e

[quote name='Rick's Fine '52' timestamp='1347464554' post='1801223'] [u]Full story;[/u] [u][url="http://www.21frets.com/Squier_History.html"]http://www.21frets.c...er_History.html[/url][/u] And here's the man himself; [/quote] Dude's pretty stylin. Figured I'd try an cop his style, does it work for me?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iVTj08qTwGw

Rest is shaped like a rickenbacker.

Pretty neat work with a sharpie there. Should give lessons to MDP.

Body grain looks quite nice, probably be reasonable if listed as japcrap, or possibly Korean, the narrow neckplate had some significance I forgot.

[quote name='untune' timestamp='1347367345' post='1799819'] I particularly like the line 'Not sure how much it's worth but I was told could fetch alot more than what it's up for as it's boxed' [/quote] That statement completely fails on a buy it now listing with no bidding option, that is unsold.

Louder comes from cabs, so usually better geting a better cab than more watts.

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1347313702' post='1799325'] The worst is the Dean Blue Burst. [/quote]

[quote name='bigsmokebass' timestamp='1347314690' post='1799341'] After trying many valve types from fenders, ashdown to hartke, etc, it's hard to get a sound like it and more so with all the new smyphetic "valves" too. [/quote] The trick is eqing down the natural mids from your instrument, and replacing them with distortion products in the midrange, becuase the tone stack is mid cut only, but there is tons of distortion through the rest of the circuit. Everywhere else still tends to engineer the amps clean, and the distortion is pre eq.

This one sounds like loads of buzzes. Most basses can have that arranged.

[url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ampeg-SVT300-Ampeg-SVTIIP-Preamp-1974-Ampeg-SVT810-/180970740789?pt=UK_MusicalInstr_Amplifiers_RL&hash=item2a22b25c35"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2a22b25c35[/url] Needs work mind, nothing tough.

Is it a switchable tweeter? Might be te tweeter, but woofers get hot also, if you hit a tweeter hard it makes horrible noise, but if a tweeter is turned down, sometimes something else heats up instead of noise, that is the not a big deal scenario, because you break something you don't use.

If you want good money for it, have to ship overseas to more prosperous climes.