Mr. Foxen

[quote name='paulflan0151' timestamp='1344265313' post='1761937'] Thanks for the reply guys, I was supposed to go to the Matamp factory the other week but was too busy. I'll have to re arrange. I've always tought of Matamp as more of a rock sound. i'm after more of a old school funk. Although, it should be said, I've never heard a Matamp. Well, I'm after something old school sounding but can do somthing a little more hifi too. A guy on here is selling a Markbass valve head which looks up my alley. But again not heard much about them (classic 300). Edit: Im not too fussed about weight. And I'll deffo have a look at the EBS valve head as I loved the old EBS SS combo I had. Thanks again chaps. [/quote] Matamp are pretty clean unless you want them to dirt up. The big fuzzy thing they have an internet rep for was down to an American dealer putting 6550 into a EL34 guitar amp and selling them as 'bass amps' at a premium, meaning they distorted loads from running the wrong valves, then blew up.

[quote name='umph' timestamp='1344259065' post='1761792'] isn't the speaker in the cab that goes with it 400W? - [url="http://www.65amps.com/apollo.html"]http://www.65amps.com/apollo.html[/url] valve recitification isn't a bad thing as long as you put some saftey measures in (new valves have a habbit of dieing and taking the PT with them). They can give a pretty nice break up. Bet the 6sl7 preamp sounds pretty tasty to [/quote] [quote][b]Pair with Elvis style cabinet:[/b] Speakers: 1x12' [b]Celestion G12H30[/b] Dimensions: 25" W x 10" D x 19.75' H Weight in box: 47 lbs[/quote]

+1 on Matamp. Or see link in sig for a selection of other vintage valve amps. Looking at spec, valve rectified is fairly bad call for bass, that much sag will reduce your sound to mush. And the suggested cab being loaded with a 30w guitar driver is bit dodge too, I'm all for using guitar cabs for bass, and consider watts an irrelevance for the most part, but a 30w guitar driver for bass with an amp that is 50w clean, when you can only be hoping to drive the amp and thus exceed 50w before you get 'the tone' is worst idea ever.

[quote name='PlungerModerno' timestamp='1344217240' post='1761422'] EDIT: I doubt even Alex Claber (Barefaced founder if you didn't already know) could make a portable and light 815. [/quote] 3 super 15s is only a bit over the weight of an SVT8x10, so not too far off.

Mazing, a 2x10 with the sensitivity of a pair of SVT 8x10s.

Are these items subject to one of the many exemptions to ROHS compliance? Like large scale industrial tools etc. http://www.timbercon.com/rohs-compliance/RoHS-Compliance-Guide.pdf

Combination of poor dispersion/scooped mids and cancellation from a reflection, usually the ceiling (being a consistent flat place) is what makes rigs hard to hear when close rather than far. Nothing to do with sound waves taking distance to develop, important to understand if you want to avoid it.

[quote name='Batfastard' timestamp='1344198810' post='1761191'] Do you mean it's not availiable to industry? [/quote] Not if they want to be able to sell what they make using it.

Pretty much no chance of the internal speaker being able to use 300w anyway.

If its got no bids there is no problem with ending it, or editing it to have a higher start. It isn't avoiding selling it if it has no bids, because it isn't selling, having a bid locks bunches of editing options.

Sounds like BS, the bulds are part of the crossover for tweeter protection, otherwise the same effect happens from the voice coil itself and is called power compression, and is responsible for some failures, where the increasing impedance drops the volume and the volume control is turned up to compensate, making the issue worse.. The 'bose' part is the giveaway.

Splitting cab doesn't matter for guitar because its the low end that gives the problems, and they don't do it.

Valves aren't so consistent that one going indicates the rest are close.

clicking to embiggen takes me to a 404 page.

Dead valves can still glow, so might be other duds in there. Or it might be just that one has lost its heater supply. Should get it looked at properly rather than chuck more valves at what could be a separate problem that eats valves.

[quote name='Big_Stu' timestamp='1344089338' post='1759639'] The story of the time was that they were made with the sweepings off the workshop floor, so - if true - at least they would have been Brazilian mahogany [s]sawdust[/s] Resonwood. [/quote] And now that Brazilian mahogany [s]sawdust[/s] Resonwood would be illegal to import to the States.

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1344073116' post='1759351'] I think the main reason why so many custom basses end up for sale is because the musicians who have them made don't really know what are the important things in the build. There is a tendency to try a order "Homer's Car" so they spend ages agonising over the choice of woods, pickups and pre-amp, which are all really details the luthier should be worrying about. Also the closest or cheapest luthier is not necessarily going to be the right one to build your bass. As a player what you want to specify is: 1. The shape. Find a luthier who is already building something that looks like what you want. Unless you want to get into prototypes and the extra expense that incurs, tried and tested designs work best. Besides there are so many custom luthiers out there someone will be building an instrument very close to what you want already. 2. The feel. Ideally from existing instruments that you like, and best is from an actual example that can be measured. When I was ordering my Sei and was unsure about some features, Martin took me upstairs to the shop and I spent a hour playing basses to decide on neck profiles and weight and balance. 3. Colour and Sound. I don't care what woods are used in my basses, so long as if they are visible I like the look of them, and the finished instrument has the right weight and balance. Similarly with the pickups and other electronics. Again when I had my Sei built, I had a picture of a Nordstrand bass I liked the look of and I wanted to sound like Japan-era Mick Karn. I let Martin make the wood choices and just picked the actual examples I liked the look of from his suggested pieces. Same with the pickups. I tried some basses in the shop and told Martin which ones sounded best to me. I've had 2 guitars and 2 basses made for me this way and they are all instruments I will never sell. I don't use them all right now, but that's because they don't necessarily suit the music that I'm playing at the moment. However next year that might be a completely different story. [/quote] Say what you want, don't tell them how to achieve it is the rule. Fairly hard to get people to understand that.

This one is an uprated Ampeg: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/151389-marshall-2001-400w-epic-doom-valve-beast/page__p__1519479__hl__400w%20marshall__fromsearch__1#entry1519479

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1344087134' post='1759593'] I'm not sure that sticking a very expensive driver in a cheap chipboard box is a great idea. [/quote] Whatever happens, you still ahve the driver. I have already done it twice, so know it works. Also, MDF.

If it is the 15 that is the same size as a 2x10 with two round ports in it, the agree OK with the Eminence Kappalite 3015 although you can't push it to full excursion without the ports chuffing, that is still plenty loud. Line it with knobbly foam whilst its open though.

People should understand that better engineering is achieving design goals with less compromise not adding more of everything. You can eq out low end, you can't adjust 50kg of excess weight though.

I think the happyness of the 8x10 on the big stage is down to its lack of lows and dispersion meaning it doesn't make a mess with the subs and monitoring, as well as looking cool.