Mr. Foxen

Sansamp Paradriver makes a good buffered preamp for piezo bridge.

I've heard some bad stock type things going on with Allparts of late, maybe they are going down the pan.

I think you are picturing ohms wrong, which makes them hard to understand, form the 'delivering ohms' phrase. Ohms are a property of the cabs, how hard they are to push current through, lower is easier. With 2 8ohm cabs daisy chained in parallel (the default if you use the speaker out on a cab to connect to second cab), those two will total 4 ohm, then the second 4 ohm cab brings it down to 2. But half the power will be split between the pair of cabs, and the other half goes to the cab on its own, which causes balance trouble best avoided.

Looks like not enough break angle. Generally, more is more for that, means yeah, have the string lower on the post is better. As long as the nut is cut right.

[quote name='Floyd Earl' timestamp='1342720017' post='1739999'] Will a tube pre - amp do the job? Does any one have suggestions of what I might look at to go with my Markbass amp? [/quote] Depends what the job is.

Think this is one of the nicer Arias, fancy bridge, not much money: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bass-Guitar-and-Amp-/261070334810?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item3cc9012b5a

[quote name='GetYourFunkOut93' timestamp='1342718417' post='1739970'] So what you are saying that if I get a 1000w amp head.. It will be as loud (with the right cabs) than a 500w amp head? [/quote] Easily. Same difference between 500w head and a 1000w head as between an Ampeg SVT 8x10 and a Barefaced Super 15: 3db. Plus the speakers need to cope with a 1000w to get any benefit from the other 500w. For loudness, choose the right speakers, and don't sweat the watts. I get my retarded gig volumes with 140w.

Are the pickups on springs or foam? If springs, replace the springs with silicon tubing (fuel line for model racing cars from a model shop).

Dying valve can do that. Swap them back, see what it does. Might have also cracked the solder round the valve bases when wiggling them out, can't recall if they are board mount.

Find out if the preamp can run at 18v, that might give it more headroom.

Do what the famous Rick players all did and score a 70s Japanese copy.

Here's a shot from the intended angle: https://twitter.com/annehilde/status/223422846104371200/photo/1/large

'Flat' refers to how a graph would look. Apply controls till the graph comes flat, do same to amp, there's the flat.

Throw up some ideas of what you want to sound like and why you think the cabs you've chosen are right. Check out Barefaced for lightweight cabs.

Is that EBS one of the ones with the in and out the other way round to most other pedals? And thus are you unplugging the out instead of the in sometimes, if its on a board and you habitually unplug all the same side?

Everything points to them being allen key adjustment. Speak to overwater for estimate, tap him up for the cash for fix, means no more hassle his end.

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1342607170' post='1737656'] Maybe the wording on the website isn't great (the "military grade" and "point to point" bits ), but I don't see anything resembling sub-par wiring in this gut-shot IMO. [url="http://www.jaguaramplification.com/i_guts.html"]http://www.jaguaramp...com/i_guts.html[/url] It may not be built in the Military/Hiwatt style of lead-dress, but the chassis pictured on the website looks well built in a Marshall-esque construction style. If an amp is readily servicable and the layout doesn't cause noise or stability problems, then it is fit for purpose. As a DIYer I have built less tidy looking amps than that which have worked flawlessly, so I'd say the Jaguar looks like a nice amp. [/quote] The par is in the $3000 amp course, Marshalls are cheap and cheerful builds, and I've probably made my feelings on them clear before. They aren't in comparable territory, boutique price for mass produced quality. Layout and lead dress doesn't matter that much in a low gain amp, but for that money, you can get a low gain amp with good layout and lead dress. This one isn't necessarily bad, but it is help up to be something it isn't, and isn't special, and in the price range that gets you special. Note the OPs comparison points are all hifi SS amps, so all the recommendation says is he actually likes the sound of a simple valve amp rather that the high def reproduction o the sound of his bass. That's great, but it isn't specific to an amp. Before and after buying an amp doesn't change the quality. If someone doesn't want to hear its rubbish before buying it, ask before buying it. Ask after and you are doing everyone who hasn't bought one yet a favour of saving them the same issue. If so happy with it, why the need to seek approval anyway? Every time I see the same snake oil stuff about military point to point etc. I'm going to call it out, eventually, people will stop believing it. Point to Point is a terrible way to make amplifiers. Carbon comps are not long lasting components. Military applications use PCB, and military grade stuff uses lead solder you aren't allowed to use here, not actually sure if you can sell it here.

So you asked for an opinion. And when you got one, you got negi about it, but you don't actually have any actual rebuttal in the face of somewhat 'qualified' opinion, but feel the need to make lengthy posts anyway? What are you trying to achieve? Anyone puts an amp in front of me, it gets assessed on a wide variety of criteria, I do it most days, its something I enjoy and it contributes to the decisions of many people. This is one such amp, which you yourself presented for judgement. This one has been assessed on the information given by the manufacturer, on their own site. Now what do you have to contribute? What we do round here is put the list of gear we use in our signatures. It saves you shouting about it in every single post, but kind of does the same thing. Just because everyone is apparently entitled to an opinion, doesn't make that opinion useful to anyone else, if you have to say it every time you post, it definitely won't be more useful the second time. You use a Jaguar amp and cab, well done. Is that what you were after?

Why are you posting on a forum if you don't want anyone to say anything? Fairly major part of my contribution to this forum is being able to turn specs into sounds, and vice versa, its pretty useful when it comes to helping people figure out solutions to problems in an entirely text based format. I've not recommended a rig in this thread at all. You went through the site of a builder I recommended and picked one yourself as an example. This is something I recommend people do when they are looking for rigs themselves, since a good builder is the best person to help you create you ideal amp, and I personally know Dunwich to be such a builder. If you put actual effort into picking a specifically wrong amp, just how useful do you think you contribution is going to be to other people?

I can't actually make much sense of your previous post. I recommend Dunwich amps because the guy is an electrical engineer who can wire to a reasonably high standard. He designs amps, for purpose, rather than copying previously done stuff (bearing in mind most stuff has been done). I never recommend stuff on the basis it does my tone, I recommend stuff because I think its is the best way for someone to achieve their tone. Generally via people who actually know about what they are making. Also, Jerome Preston has recently been playing my old BC Rich. Are you generally getting at this amp is only good for doing what you do? Pretty expensive for something so limited. Everyone else is much better off paying custom amp prices for a custom amp built to suit them. Someone who only thinks sounding like themself is good isn't very useful for gear recommendations. I pretty much never recommend the amps I use, the midrange transparency is brutally revealing of any playing flaws.

How do you figure where flat is? This program shows what tone knob settings can translate to in an eq chart thing: http://www.duncanamps.com/tsc/

That a steam engine you are making in the background? Bit fancier than mine: [IMG]http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/Incarante/steamengine.jpg[/IMG]

Your ears are the only thing that can reliably tell you how sound changes when you do things. Everything else effects the sound too, especially where your ears are in relation to the speaker.

Think Umph has had a go on it. Some nut case bought it to use.

Purpleheart is my favoured fingerboard material. That would be a brutal clash.